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Drawing is an essential part of any creative process and it remains the most efficient tool for communicating a concept or an image. This book features a varied selection of the work of leading jewellery designers, as revealed through their original illustrations and working drawings, plus colour photographs of the finished pieces

Jewellery sets off beauty and reveals wealth. Moreover, jewellery had a magical function in traditional societies because it attracted blessings and warded off evil. Women were given most of their jewellery when they married. They wore it until their children had grown up. Then it was kept until their daughters had need of its magical properties. So Oriental vernacular jewellery was handed down from generation to generation. If a piece was too worn, it was melted down and the silver used to recreate a piece of the same type. Thus the memories of millennia were preserved in jewellery of this kind.

It came to a break in the mid-20th century. In many parts of the Near East, the traditional silver jewellery began to be replaced by gold jewellery that was often industrially manufactured. The upshot was that much of what makes this collection so unusual has been irredeemably lost in the countries where the jewellery was once made. It is to the everlasting credit of Dr. Bir as a collector that these pieces have survived, albeit far from the lands where they were made, to attest to the infinite variety and beauty of Oriental craftsmanship. In this book, readers follow the jewellery on an imaginary journey: from Turkey and “oriental Europe” across the Mediterranean to north-western Africa and the Sahara to Ethiopia. From there the journey continues through Yemen via India and on to Thailand and the Roof of the World. Down the Indus Valley to Afghanistan. Back again through the mountains and across Central Asia on the Silk Road to the West. From Turkmenistan to the Caspian Sea and from there to the Caucasus. Through eastern Turkey, Syria and Palestine back to the Mediterranean. Born in Freiburg i. Breisgau in 1929, the collector Ümit Bir was the son of a Turkish physician and a native of Freiburg. He grew up in Izmir. After studying medicine in Istanbul, he trained as a specialist in Berlin and worked in Wolfsburg from 1958. His passion for collecting began in 1960 on a trip through north-east Africa. One hundred and eighty more trips throughout the Near East would follow.

The Dr. Bir Collection comprising more than 3,000 pieces of jewellery is on loan to the Museum für Völkerkunde Leipzig. It is one of the largest private collections of oriental jewellery in existence. A selection of pieces from it are published here for the first time.

This book rewrites the history of jewellery in the age of Victoria. The ‘age of Victoria’ is taken in its widest sense to encompass jewellery made throughout Europe and America, displayed at the great international exhibitions and distributed through foreign trade, illustrated publications and a burgeoning tourist industry. Throughout, links with other disciplines will provide both the specialist and the non- specialist with the information to understand how jewellery permeated all walks and conditions of life in the 19th century.

The focus of the book is on the attitudes of owners to their jewellery and the symbolic weight that it was expected to carry. Rather than concentrating on the major figures at the top end of the jewellery trade, it is oriented towards the social aspects of owning, wearing and displaying jewellery. For example, novelists used jewellery to add a moral or metaphorical dimension to a character, while jewels depicted in portraits often carried multiple messages which could be immediately decoded by the viewer. The achievements of science, the fascination with nature and the Victorian sense of humour are all embodied in jewellery. Topics discussed in depth include the importance of jewellery in the life of the Queen herself, jewellery and dress, the language of jewellery, the cult of novelty, the importance of nationalism in the revival of historical styles, and the contribution of archaeological discoveries. The volume is sumptuously illustrated with contemporary reportage, photographs and portraits as well as examples of jewellery from the British Museum and other collections.

She was a creature of contrasts: there was the Chanel of rococo mirrors and playful jewellery; but also the Chanel of the tailored suit, of the utmost restraint; of classicism à la française.
The jewellery that Chanel created presents one of the least-known aspects of her work: in complement to her ‘costume jewellery’, she invented jewellery that was unparalleled in luxury and refinement and unfettered in its imagination.

Using illustrations and documents, many of them previously unpublished, and based on archival research and interviews with Chanel’s colleagues and other witnesses of her life and career, this book presents her passion for fabulous jewels and improbable marvels.

Gabrielle Chanel was a creature of contrasts: there was Mademoiselle Chanel of the sumptuous baroque, of rococo mirrors and dazzling jewelry, a playful, unrestrained Coco; but there was also Gabrielle Chanel of the little black dress, of the severe cut, of rigour in black and white.

Out of this dialogue between ostentation and austerity, the fine jewelry that she created all her life was unparalleled in its insistence on luxury and refinement, drawing inspiration from tradition without ever being the slave of everyday formulas or market values.

Based on archival research and interviews with Chanel’s colleagues and witnesses to her life and career, this book is the first to set in relief her passion for fabulous jewels, for exceptional stones, for improbable marvels, that should be considered ‘with innocence, with naivety, like enjoying an apple tree in blossom along the road as we speed by in a car’.

With more than 350 illustrations, Jewelry from Nature is a fresh, sensitive look at natural materials magically transformed by masters of fine jewelry.

The vast range of materials is impressive: coral, amber, horn, ivory, shells, pearls, wood, tortoiseshell, and such exotica as feathers, shagreen and bog oak – with origins from all over Europe, Asia, North and South America, Africa and the Far East. Their beauty often belies their age – amber (65 million years old) and mammoth ivory (10,000 years old).

Here, lavishly displayed, are superb works made by the world’s finest jewelers of the past two hundred years. Every major jeweler has created pieces of exceptional beauty, importance and style: Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, JAR, Cartier (their 
Art Deco coral bangles are icons of the period), Tiffany, Boivin, Verdura (whose seashell brooches studded with fine stones have long been collectors’ items), David Webb, Schlumberger, Lalique (whose name enbodies the best in Art Nouveau), Suzanne Belperron and Hermès.

Scores of modern designers are also featured (Andrew Grima, John Donald, Noma Copley) as well as artists today such as Patricia Von Musulin, Ted Muehling and Liv Blåvarp, whose exquisite objects show great respect for natural materials.

Including masses of information, each chapter explores the inspiration of a different material, with special profiles on designers, themes, or style icons such as Princess Grace of Monaco, Chanel and the Duchess of Windsor.

The glamour and excitement of the world of haute jewellery is beautifully explored in Jewelry International.

About the Author

Tourbillon International has published six volumes of Grand Complications and is an expert in the field.

Easy-to-follow instructions and carefully executed illustrations make it possible for anyone to learn the basics of an age-old art form and fashion beautiful, lasting objects. Author discusses tools and techniques, use of gems and enamels, wire inlay, casting, and other topics. 72 line illustrations and diagrams.Easy-to-follow instructions and carefully executed illustrations make it possible for anyone to learn the basics of an age-old art form and fashion beautiful, lasting objects. Author discusses tools and techniques, use of gems and enamels, wire inlay, casting, and other topics. 72 line illustrations and diagrams.

This sumptuous book, now updated to mark the opening of the spectacular new Jewellery Gallery at the V&A in May 2008, features exquisite early medieval pieces and superb examples of jewellery design from the Renaissance up to the present. Exceptional photographs illustrate not only rare precious stones but elaborate techniques such as chasing, enamelling and cameo. Famous jewels are featured alongside rings, brooches, pendants, earrings and tiaras, all revealing the beauty and technical virtuosity of their maker’s art.

A definitive work of reference
Features images, techniques, materials and producers of the jewels made in Spain and in the New World, in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries
Includes images of many jewels that have never before been published

In effect, this book, which features numerous pictures, has remained an essential work of reference for the study of Spanish jewellery during the reign of the Hapsburg and Bourbon Dynasties, extending as far as the rule of Charles IV. However, in spite of its importance, the work is only now being published in English.

Forty years have passed since Dr. Muller completed the book and, in all this time, her monographic work has lost none of its relevance, continuing to be an excellent basic guide for the study of a fundamental aspect of Spanish art. However, it is quite impossible to find Jewels in Spain: 1500-1800 today. For this reason, Ediciones El Viso has undertaken the task of carefully republishing the work, as revised and updated by the author, featuring new pictures based on photographs taken expressly for the purpose at hand and reproduced in full colour.

The history of the world -- triumphs and tragedies, breakthroughs and breakups -- through the iconic jewels that have inspired and influenced since the dawn of time.

From ancient treasures to royal weddings, great heists to the red carpet, this book is a stunning, surprising, and glittering tour of historic turning points and gem-driven drama, delving into the passions and predilections of some of the world's most interesting and extraordinary people.

Starting in the era of Cleopatra and continuing through to contemporary jewelry statements by Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, and Meghan Markle, Stellene Volandes tells the stories of how shiny stones and precious metals have determined empires, inspired expeditions and great crime, and been the communicator of status and ruin since ancient times. Each moment is placed in historic and relevant context, with Volandes drawing engaging parallels between Napoleon's gift to Marie Louise at the birth of their son and the modern push present or the insouciant story behind the brooch Jackie Kennedy famously wore to a 1962 State Dinner with the Shah of Iran. Illustrated with a mix of archival images and gorgeous photography of the jewels, this book is a beautiful, informative, and essential read for history lovers, fashion, celebrity, and pop-culture followers, as well as passionate jewel hounds.

About the Author:

Stellene Volandes is an internationally renowned expert in jewelry. In addition to writing about jewelry for Town & Country (where she is also editor in chief), she hosts a series at the 92nd Street Y on jewels and their history. Her first book, Jeweler, was published by Rizzoli in 2016.

The Objects of Youthful Desire. Playthings From the Past For the Present

Up until the 20th century, children’s play was not a subject that demanded much attention. While objects that entertained children have been present from ancient history, it was only with industrial mass production — and a developing urban middle class — that toys appeared more frequently. As playthings began to display a robust economic performance, an industry rose to provide this new market with the objects of their desire. European manufacturers dominated the toy market, with Germany, in particular, supplying the American market with the bulk of both singular and mass-produced products. World War I ended its dominance, and by the 1920s, bolstered by American ingenuity, an ever-growing consumer culture supported by the media empires of newspapers, radio, and television, American toys became ubiquitous in the consumer market.

Ranging from the simple to the complex, children were inundated with a commodity to be wished for and sold to by the millions. From frilly dolls to science sets, children were marketed to with gusto, first through magazines and comic books and later through television. Toys fell along familiar gender lines all while being developed with the unspoken subtext of stimulating developing minds and being vehicles of problem solving with educational value.

If the first part of the 20th century represented the rise of toys in America, the postwar period signaled a market unleashed by the baby boom. That one event gained traction for the toy industry and propelled it to its current state. Unforeseen was the next chapter in the industry — the advancement of the technical revolution — which would create another dimension of toy products that would captivate both children and adults as one century blended into the next.

In the world of toy production, the multimillion-dollar industry took the advertising of their product seriously, and toy manufacturers inundated customers with their latest product via trade journals. In New York City, the hub of the toy industry for most of the 20th century, annual trade shows introduced a deluge of new playthings to the buying public. Frisbees, board games, baseball mitts, Hula-Hoops, air rifles, video games, dolls, and miniature trains were all served up to generations of children, cementing forever the memories playtime.

Filled with a Santa’s sack full of surprises Toys. 100 Hundred Years of All-American Toy Ads takes us down the aisles of America’s toy store delivering the favorites and forgotten memories of toys that were hugged and hoarded, saved and disposed of, and now finally brought back in their pristine glory. Once again it’s Christmas, your birthday, and a reward for a job well-done.

The editor:

Jim Heimann is the Executive Editor for TASCHEN America. A cultural anthropologist, historian, and an avid collector, he has authored numerous titles on architecture, pop culture, and the history of Los Angeles and Hollywood, including TASCHEN’s Surfing, Los Angeles. Portrait of a City, California Crazy and the All-American Ads series.

The author:

Steven Heller, co-chair of the School of Visual Arts MFA Design / Designer as Entrepreneur program, writes “The Daily Heller” for printmag.com and is author or editor of more than 190 books on graphic design, editorial illustration, and political art.

Carrie Bradshaw adored them; Beyoncé sang about them; princesses wear them. From the first time a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes graced the red carpet, the brand has been favored by Hollywood stars, British royalty, and the world’s most fashionable women - as well as highly coveted by millions around the world. Founded in 1996 by Tamara Mellon, Jimmy Choo is known for its glamorous, creative, and whimsical designs that have inspired legions of fans worldwide.

Since launching the company, Mellon has been a creative and business visionary, turning out fashion and cultural icons regularly seen on loyal fans such as Reese Witherspoon, Madonna, Halle Berry, and countless other stars. Through red-carpet fashion photography and behind-the-scenes imagery from the company archives, this book gives an inside look at Mellon and the company’s creative inspirations, as well as showcasing the brilliant, colorful, and memorable creations that have already become fashion classics.

About the Author:

Jimmy Choo was founded by Tamara Mellon, OBE, in 1996, as a luxury footwear company. Today, Jimmy Choo encompasses a complete luxury brand with women’s shoes, handbags, small leather goods, belts, sunglasses, and eyewear. The brand’s products are available in the growing network of Jimmy Choo freestanding stores as well as in the most prestigious department stores, specialty stores, and duty-free stores worldwide.