Книги о моде и фэшн дизайне

London 1996: Alexander McQueen took over the Hawksmoor masterpiece Christ Church in Londons East End for what was quite possibly the greatest fashion show on Earth. A candle-lit, cruciform catwalk with a backdrop of stained-glass windows set the tone for an extraordinary collection. Lace sat against chiffon and rubbed shoulders with couture and club-culture clothing and digital print. Dante was the seminal collection that would resonate throughout Alexander McQueen's career.

This book features unique photographs shot behind the scenes, with raw, unseen pictures of the designer, models and clothes. The fashion creatives who worked with McQueen to make the show such a success recall this pivotal time in the designer's career and reflect on what made Dante truly groundbreaking. Newly created imagery of clothes shown on the catwalk gives an insight into why this collection was so special.

About the authors:

Kent Baker lives in London and New York. He was championed by Terry Jones from i-D magazine, jump-starting collaborations with British Vogue, 10 Magazine and Russian Vogue. 
Melanie Rickey is a writer, editor and consultant. She writes for the Guardian and Grazia, and shares her expert fashion knowledge on her Fashion Editor at Large website.

Поклонники дома Диор получили еще одну возможность поближе познакомиться с творческой лабораторией модного бренда. Прекрасно иллюстрированное издание представляет известные и ранее неопубликованные фото, архивные снимки, на которых запечатлены рабочие моменты, кадры показов, искусные модели, эскизы и наброски.

Помимо иллюстраций в книге собраны интервью и эссе уважаемых метров мира моды, таких как Джон Гальяно, Флоренция Мюллер, Бернар Арно и многие другие. Все вместе это составляет полноценную картину формирования и развития тенденций Dior.

По материалам легко проследить, начиная с 1947 года, трансформацию стиля, выделение деталей, комбинаций материалов и форм, которые стали узнаваемыми. Здесь затронуты самые разные источники вдохновения, подарившие миру дизайнерские шедевры.

Издание состоит из двух разделов. В первом, «Искусство и мода», раскрывается глубокая внутренняя связь между брендом и веяниями живописи и дизайна. Вторая часть, «Вальс времени», – это увлекательное исследование влияния различных исторических эпох и стран на коллекции Диор. Это и Франция 18 в., и Древний Египет, и отголоски Азии, России, Испании. Представленная книга содержит богатый материал для ценителей моды и искусства.

___________

Inspirations Dior offers an exclusive and comprehensive look into one of the world's most successful names in fashion. Showcasing works of art, archival photographs of the gowns and of fashion shows, unpublished images were specifically taken for this catalogue by Laziz Hamani, and sketches, this elaborately illustrated book also contains text from an impressive array of respected art and fashion experts - including Florence Muller, Edmonde Charles-Roux, Jacques Ranc, Vitali Michin, Irina Antonova, Bernard Arnault, John Galliano, Daniel Alcouffe, Stephane Guegan, and Frederic Bourdellier. Moving from 1947 to the present day, this book defines the roots of Dior style, showcasing the distinctive lines, materials, and shapes that have been loved throughout the decades. The first section of the book, 'Art and Fashion,' introduces the many aspects that make Dior unique, highlighting the corollaries between art, painting in particular, with the designs. Tracing themes and sources of inspiration, the second part of the book "The Waltz of Time" reveals how elements from the past - the French eighteenth century (a particularly significant era for Dior), the Belle Epoque, Ancient Egypt, and more-have influenced the designs. Then, the global nature of Dior is explored, finding parallels with specific pieces in the art and culture of Spain, Russia, and Asia.

About the Author:

Florence Muller, formerly director and curator of the Union Francaise des Arts du Costume at the Musee des Arts de la Mode, is an exhibition organizer, teacher, journalist, consultant, and author of several fashion books.

___________

Посмотреть русскоязычное издание книги Inspiration Dior -  Диор: под знаком искусства

The most personal account of the life and work of legendary designer Coco Chanel ever published, with contributions from her great-niece and from the archives of her eponymous fashion house.

Coco Chanel's life and work have been recounted often in print and film everything except the details of her most private self: her fondness for symbolism and poetry, the men she loved, her family, and in particular her nephew André Palasse, whom she raised like a son. His daughter Gabrielle Palasse-LabrunieChanels only direct descendant and goddaughter to both Chanel and the Duke of Westminster enjoyed a close-knit relationship with the designer for more than forty years. In this biography, she opens her doors and shares personal memories of her great-aunt.

This work divided into five chronological parts, including Chanels dark period's plunges the reader into the private world of the icon, offering intimate insight. Photographs of Chanels personal effects, many of which have never before been seen or published, include presents from her great love Boy Capel, furniture, favorite jewelry, talismans, clothes, family photographs, rare documents, correspondence, and books with personal inscriptions.

The Chanel fashion house offered privileged access to the couturier's iconic pieces in their archives. In Intimate Chanel, Palasse-Labrunie discloses all that was important to her great-aunt and recounts their private conversations, unveiling who her Auntie Coco really was: a very different Chanel from her public persona.

The interpretation and implementation of the basic Islamic rules for women's dress vary from country to country and are subject to cultural and individual styles. Muslimahs in Northern Africa and the Middle East dress quite differently from those in Pakistan and Southeast Asia. When is comes to decoration, a specific type of ornamental design has been developed in the Muslim world, which employs a variety of geometric patterns, stylized floral elements and ornate calligraphy. On clothing this decoration often appears in the form of embroidery.

Islamic Fashion contains images of dress (including modern fashion) from several Muslim regions. Also included are renderings of embroidered, printed and woven decorative elements. Book includes a CD with ready-to-use files.

In 1983, Japanese designer Issey Miyake told The New Yorker that he aspired “to forge ahead, to break the mould.

” With the boundary-defying fashion lines that followed, he not only broke moulds but recast clothing altogether. With a unique fusion of poetry and practicality, his creations blur the boundaries between tradition, modern technology, and everyday function.

This definitive history of Miyake’s clothes offers expert insight into the designer’s vision and daring. Initiated and conceived by Midori Kitamura, the book looks at the texture-driven originality of Miyake’s materials and techniques from the very earliest days of his career, before he had even established the Miyake Design Studio. Drawing on more than 40 years of collaborative work with Miyake, Kitamura creates an encyclopedic reference of his material and technical innovations through the clothes based on A Piece of Cloth concept, Body Series of the 1980s, Miyake Pleats series, and such practical, everyday designs as Pleats Please pieces.

Stunning photographs from Miyake’s contemporary Yuriko Takagi capture his clothes in their particular quotidian originality, including a breathtaking shoot in Iceland. In her far-reaching essay, meanwhile, leading cultural figure Kazuko Koike offers both a complete chronology of Miyake’s work, and an unprecedented personal profile, looking at the ambition and inspirations that have driven his repertoire from tender teenage years. A must-have for designers, students, and fashion devotees, this is a timeless tribute to one of the most innovative makers of our age.

In a sequence of beautiful shots, Gastel juxtaposes shoes with common objects that evoke them by their shape, color or texture. Pairings of great elegance, witty and unusual, highlight the creativity of the shoe designs. With an introduction by fashion journalist Giusy Ferre.

About the Authors:

Giovanni Gastel has worked for major fashion magazines for over thirty years and is a leading figure in the world of advertising. In 1997, he was the subject of a solo exhibition at the Triennale di Milano. He is the Honorary President of the Italian Professional Photographers' Association. Giusi Ferre is a fashion journalist. She writes for the CorrieredellaSera women's weekly supplement Iodonna and has appeared on numerous television and radio programs.

Many of the most familiar sartorial images of the 20th century can be traced to the prestigious college campuses of America. The "Ivy League Look", or "Ivy Style", was once a cutting-edge look that for decades led the evolution of menswear.

Far more than a classic way of dressing, Ivy Style spread beyond the rarified walls of Harvard, Yale, and Princeton to influence countless designers. Focusing on menswear dating from the early 20th century through today, this elegant book traces the main periods of the look: the interwar years when classic items, such as tweed jackets and polo coats, were appropriated from the English man's wardrobe and redesigned by pioneering American firms such as Brooks Brothers and J. Press for young men at elite East Coast colleges; then from 1945 to the late 1960s, when the staples of Ivy Style - oxford cloth shirts, khaki pants, and penny loafers - were worn by a new, diverse group that included working-class students and jazz musicians; and finally the current revival of the Ivy look that began in the early 1980s.

"Ivy Style" celebrates both high-profile proponents of the style - including the Duke of Windsor, Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, and Miles Davis - who made the look their own, and designers such as Ralph Lauren, J. McLaughlin, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Bastian, and Thom Browne, who have made it resonate with new generations of style enthusiasts.

ILLUSTRATIONS: 160 col., 28 b&w

For over forty years, Jan Jansen has been designing and selling shoes. His designs include the clog of 1969, the bamboo shoe of 1973 and the floating wedge of 1989. He has worked with some of the world's most renowned designers, such as Dior, Manolo Blahnik, Stephane Kélian and Charles Joudan. He has received many prestigious awards - including the Grand Seigneur Prize by the Fashion Association in 1996 - and his work has been exhibited all over the world.
This book illustrates fifty of the very best Jan Jansen designs, offering an insight into the life and the inspiration of this top designer.

Jan Jansen's shoes have been exhibited all over the world, including: Stedelijk Museum for Modern Art, Amsterdam; Gemeentemuseum den Haag, The Netherlands; Museum of Contemporary Crafts, New York; Worldexhibition, Montreal; Crafts Council, London; Matsuya Ginza, Tokyo; Hanshin, Osaka, Japan; Halle Sud, Geneva, Switzerland; Rheinisches Landenmuseum, Bonn, Germany; Ledermuseum, Offenbach , Germany; 2004 + 2005 exhibitions in Japan, sponsored by the Mainichi Newspapers, Japan.

Whether it’s Beyoncé’s wild blue jacket, Rihanna in a Donald Duck dress, or outfit queen Lady Gaga in a jacket with sewn-on Kermit the Frog puppets, they have all worn his creations and made them famous.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is a designer who knows how to dress women with courage and creativity. And for his somewhat unorthodox tastes, he has been nicknamed “King of the Unconventional.” After developing a collection for his mother’s fashion house in 1968, he started his own label in 1978. Since then, he has launched countless successful collections and struck up partnerships with the most unlikely people. Whether it’s robes for the Pope, costumes for the Woody Allen film Annie Hall, or clothes for TV series such as Charlie’s Angels and Sex and the City — for decades, de Castelbajac has been a style and fashion pioneer. Even better, he has always managed to fuse fashion with art, as evidenced by his partnerships with Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Take a look behind the scenes at this fashion legend and learn about how this artist got his start and his ongoing history of success.

 - A very private look into the life and work of an exceptional designer
 - With commentary from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac himself, as well as many personal letters from his celebrity clients
 - A must-have for any true fashionista

JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC is an emblematic artist known for his polymorphic work. Since the beginning, his passion for art and design coupled with an enthusiastic and tireless character has urged him to collaborate with the best international industries and artists. His playful oeuvre and his approach to pop/rock culture has been seen around the world appealing to every generation in their own singular way.

She was a creature of contrasts: there was the Chanel of rococo mirrors and playful jewellery; but also the Chanel of the tailored suit, of the utmost restraint; of classicism à la française.
The jewellery that Chanel created presents one of the least-known aspects of her work: in complement to her ‘costume jewellery’, she invented jewellery that was unparalleled in luxury and refinement and unfettered in its imagination.

Using illustrations and documents, many of them previously unpublished, and based on archival research and interviews with Chanel’s colleagues and other witnesses of her life and career, this book presents her passion for fabulous jewels and improbable marvels.

Carrie Bradshaw adored them; Beyoncé sang about them; princesses wear them. From the first time a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes graced the red carpet, the brand has been favored by Hollywood stars, British royalty, and the world’s most fashionable women - as well as highly coveted by millions around the world. Founded in 1996 by Tamara Mellon, Jimmy Choo is known for its glamorous, creative, and whimsical designs that have inspired legions of fans worldwide.

Since launching the company, Mellon has been a creative and business visionary, turning out fashion and cultural icons regularly seen on loyal fans such as Reese Witherspoon, Madonna, Halle Berry, and countless other stars. Through red-carpet fashion photography and behind-the-scenes imagery from the company archives, this book gives an inside look at Mellon and the company’s creative inspirations, as well as showcasing the brilliant, colorful, and memorable creations that have already become fashion classics.

About the Author:

Jimmy Choo was founded by Tamara Mellon, OBE, in 1996, as a luxury footwear company. Today, Jimmy Choo encompasses a complete luxury brand with women’s shoes, handbags, small leather goods, belts, sunglasses, and eyewear. The brand’s products are available in the growing network of Jimmy Choo freestanding stores as well as in the most prestigious department stores, specialty stores, and duty-free stores worldwide.

A striking tribute to John Galliano's highly creative collections for his eponymous label (1996–2011), captured behind the scenes by American Vogue photographer Robert Fairer

Robert Fairer – American Vogue’s exclusive backstage photographer for over a decade – opens up his archive to unveil stunning photographs that were, until now, one of fashion’s best-kept secrets.

Presenting John Galliano’s creations for his eponymous label (1996–2011), John Galliano: Unseen celebrates the visionary and exquisitely multi-layered collections that acted as a showcase for the designer’s romantic, theatrical, radical ideas, granting rare behind-the-scenes access to a highly charged world of fantasy, collaboration and beauty.

Now creative director of Maison Margiela, John Galliano started his career in London in the late 1980s, straight after graduating from Central Saint Martins. After being appointed head designer of Christian Dior in 1996, Galliano continued to create two collections a year for his namesake brand. They acted in many ways as a laboratory of ideas, allowing him to let his imagination run wild, free from both the commercial pressures associated with a house as iconic and as global as Dior and the influence of the hallowed house’s iconic pieces – a pure expression of his personal design style.

Opening with an essay on the designer’s work, John Galliano: Unseen unfolds chronologically. Thirty collections are included, each introduced by a short text by Claire Wilcox, revisiting the designer’s most iconic creations and revealing previously unseen behind-the-scenes moments that capture models, hairdressers, stylists, makeup artists and John Galliano himself at their most creative. Robert Fairer’s stunning and high-energy photographs capture the glamour and frenzy that defined Galliano’s shows. A treasure-trove of inspiration, they make this publication a must-have reference for fashion and photography lovers alike.

About the Author:

British photographer Robert Fairer worked exclusively for American Vogue behind the scenes for over a decade. Beginning his career at British Elle in the mid 1990s, then Harpers Bazaar USA and finally at American Vogue, he covered the fashion zeitgeist of supermodel, designer and fashion excess from 1993-2011.His backstage archive has been published in three monographs, Alexander McQueen Unseen, John Galliano Unseen, and Marc Jacobs Unseen by Thames & Hudson, Yale University Press, Schirmer Mosel and Abrams. Robert’s work is published in The New York Times, Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, i-D Magazine, and Visionaire, as well as fashion, portrait and lifestyle books, and anthologies. Robert continues to document the fashionable elite and collaborate with his editors and clients in uncharted fashion domains.

Years after her discovery at age fourteen at New York City’s John F. Kennedy Airport and her quick ascent to the top of the supermodeling world and choice luxury-brand figurehead, Kate Moss represents an unusual success story: that of a middle-class teenager who became one of the best-paid models in the world with no apparent effort. Hers is a story of endless reinvention: more than twenty years later, despite tabloid scandals, drug use, rehab, and tumultuous high-profile romances, Kate Moss appears before us as a fresh creation each time, an ideal subject able to adapt to any circumstance, recast herself ceaselessly through self-staging and self-narration, and make the world fall in love with her over and over again.

In Kate Moss: The Making of an Icon, Christian Salmon’s insightful text, accompanied by more than sixty gorgeous images, explores this phenomenon - the story of an icon, a muse, a legend, an enigma - and how our culture has created the collective Kate Moss myth.