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An indispensable survey of the most important archival collections assembled by fashion’s key players.

In order for fashion to march forward, it must possess the ability to look back. For the fashion obsessed, one’s archive is surely a testament to the act of preservation and, of course, a sophisticated symbol of taste. Archives take time to build, wardrobes or storage units packed to the brim with rare, archival shoes, dresses, and handbags, some never worn, are only perfected after countless hours spent on Ebay and in the depths of obscured vintage sales. The results end up being remarkable representations of fashion history. 

This book gathers the preeminent collections of archival obsessives, capturing the closets of an impressive list of fashion and design talent. Readers will get an in-depth look at Michèle Lamy’s extensive Comme des Garçon archive, Sarah Andelman’s covetable (and colorful) sneaker and t-shirt collection, ENDYMA's growing Helmut Lang archive, Zaha Hadid’s fabulous footwear assemblage, and more. This tome, over 300 pages long, painstakingly showcases the subject’s archive while showing off top-tier labels and hard-to-obtain seasons: Issey Miyake, Maison Martin Margiela, Thierry Mugler, John Galliano, and Alexander McQueen, among others, and serves as an indispensable reference for those interested in fashion history and building their own archive.

Essays throughout by leading thinkers and writers provide insightful commentary alongside each collection featured in this new, enlightening fashion bible.

About the Authors:

Alexandra Carl is an acclaimed fashion stylist and consultant and recipient of the British Fashion Council’s New Wave Creative Award.  

Angelo Flaccavento is an Italian fashion journalist, writer, and curator. 

Dr. Dimitrios Tsivrikos is a noted university professor, curator, and art advisor. A pioneer in the field of psychology, he has advised and managed international contemporary art collections, and led sales with Christie's and Sotheby’s.

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Пролистать книгу Collecting Fashion: Nostalgia, Passion, Obsession на сайте издательства.

This book is a practical manual intended specifically for anyone interested in delving into the technique of granting colour to fashion figurine illustrations to give them more life and expressiveness. In a clear and educational way,

Tiziana Paci, autor of the well-know book Figure Drawing for Fashion Design, explains in detail the different themes examined in the work through images and examples along with concise and to-the-point texts ideal for neophytes as well as people who have been working in this field for years.

This lavishly illustrated book presents Muslim fashion as an essential part of contemporary style.

This dazzling exploration of contemporary Muslim modest dress, from historic styles to present-day examples, accompanies a major exhibition and reveals the enormous range of self-expression through fashion achieved by Muslim men and women. Filled with documentary and fashion photography as well as stills from runway shows and the media, this book explores the ways Muslim style cultures are shaped by global trends and religious beliefs. 

From high-end couture to streetwear, this volume shows how established and diaspora regions, such as Dubai, Jakarta, London, and New York, are homes to thriving industries that create classic and cutting-edge looks. Accompanying these images are essays and personal narratives by leading voices that touch on everything from the history of modest dress to social media. 

A fascinating examination of a major segment of the fashion industry, this book highlights the ingenuity and creativity of Muslim designers and wearers as they deftly navigate the fashion industry while maintaining their religious and cultural identities.

Пролистать книгу Contemporary Muslim Fashion

A concise account of the history of fashion and costume from prehistoric times through to today.

From the momentus invention of the needle some 40,000 years ago to the development of blue denim, from Neolithic weavers to the biggest names in the fashion industry today – this classic guide covers the landmarks of costume history, the forms and materials used through the ages, the underlying motives of fashion and the ways in which clothes have been used to protect, to express identity, and to attract or to influence others. This sixth edition features a new foreword and concluding chapter by Amy de la Haye. The book is brought right up to date with a discussion about the major political shifts within the fashion industry, highlighting how it has responded to issues surrounding racism and sexism; LGBTQI rights; mental health awareness; body and age diversity and global sustainability.

Contents List:

Foreword • 1. How it all began • 2. Greeks and Romans • 3. Early Europe • 4. The Renaissance and the sixteenth century • 5. The seventeenth century • 6. The eighteenth century • 7. From 1800 to 1850 • 8. From 1850 to 1900 • 9. From 1900 to 1939 • 10. Rationed fashion to pluralistic style • 11. At the turn of the millennium • 12. Fashion since 2010

About the Authors:

James Laver, the 20th century’s leading authority in Britain on the history of costume and fashion, was Keeper of the Department of Prints and Drawings and of Paintings at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, from 1938 until 1959. Amy de la Haye is Rootstein Hopkins Chair of Dress History & Curatorship at London College of Fashion. She was formerly Curator of Twentieth-Century Dress at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Andrew Tucker is a fashion journalist and author of The London Fashion Book; Dries Van Noten; and Fashion: A Crash Course.

The finishing touches applied to a garment can take it from the realms of the ordinary to the heights of luxury. Creating Couture Embellishment offers a step-by-step guide to manipulating fabric and making and applying a rich variety of embellishments.

Chapters cover fabric-manipulation techniques of pleating, quilting, tucking, ruffling, shirring and smocking, as well as the fabrication and application of feathers, beading, embroidery, flowers, decorative ribbons and bows, bias bindings and piping, fringe, braids and passementerie. The heirloom quality created by the insertion or application of lace is also explored.

Featuring a visual index of every embellishment in the book that is designed to offer inspiration as well as showcasing the myriad of choice, Creating Couture Embellishment provides a comprehensive sourcebook of ideas for the student, professional and home sewer alike.

About the Author:

Ellen Miller taught at Boston's School of Fashion Design, including classes in couture details, construction and pattern drafting, for ten years. She has also worked in the theatre as a seamstress, costumer and wardrobe mistress and stage hand in the United States and Europe.

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Visit Ellen’s Creating Embellishment blog for further details about the book.

Gabrielle Chanel was a friend of the greatest poets, writers, musicians, and artists of her time, as well as an avid reader who found inspiration in literature and poetry. Throughout the famous couturière’s life, the works of Plato, Saint Augustine, Shakespeare, Alexandre Pouchkine, Honoré de Balzac, Gustave Flaubert, Thomas Mann, Pierre Reverdy, Max Jacob, Jean Cocteau, and more played a significant role in nurturing her imagination. In Culture Chanel: The Woman Who Reads, author and curator Jean-Louis Froment highlights connections between texts, photographs, paintings, drawings, jewelry, perfume, and clothing designs, revealing an aesthetic language ― which can be seen throughout Chanel’s many enduring contributions to the fashion world ― in the light of the written words that shaped her life.
 

The first book to explore the synergy between dance and fashion, featuring a wide range of dance-fashion collaborations and inspirations

Dress and adornment have long played an important role in the visual allure of dance, and fashion designers have often been inspired by the way dancers look. The tutus and pointe shoes of the Romantic ballerina, for example, have influenced designers from Christian Dior to Christian Louboutin. Cristóbal Balenciaga was inspired by the drama of flamenco, Yves Saint Laurent by the Orientalism of the Ballet Russes, and Rick Owens by the dynamism of African-American steppers. Fashion designers are also increasingly collaborating with choreographers to create stylish new dance costumes — from the “bump” dresses by Comme des Garçons for Merce Cunningham to Valentino’s “Bal de Couture” designs for New York City Ballet.

Lavishly illustrated with both contemporary and historical images, the book features essays by ten fashion experts, who explore various aspects of the reciprocal relationship between dance and fashion, from the liberating effects of the tango to the influence of ballet on Japanese girl culture. Designers featured include Leon Bakst, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Halston, Barbara Karinka, Isaac Mizrahi, Rodarte, Yves Saint Laurent, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, Valentino, and Iris Van Herpen.   

This beautiful book explores for the first time the synergy between dance and fashion and is an original and inspired contribution to the study of both art forms. 

About the Author:

Valerie Steele is director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT. 

Suits that pop with loud colors and dazzling patterns, complete with a nearly ubiquitous bowtie, define the style of the new “dandy.” Described as “high-styled rebels” by author Shantrelle P. Lewis, black men with a penchant for color and refined fashion, both new and vintage, have gained popular attention in recent years, influencing mainstream fashion. But black dandyism itself is not new; originating in Enlightenment England’s slave culture, it has continued for generations in black cultures around the world. Now, set against the backdrop of hip-hop culture, this iteration of dandies is redefining what it means to be black, masculine, and fashionable. Dandy Lion presents and celebrates individual dandy personalities, designers and tailors, movements and events that define contemporary dandyism. Throughout the book, self expression is communicated through personal style, clothing, shoes, hats, and swagger. Lewis’s carefully curated selection of contemporary photographs surveys the movement across the globe in spectacular form, with all of the vibrant patterns, electrifying colors, and fanciful poses of this brilliant style subculture.

Shantrelle P. Lewis (author) is a U.S.-based curator and researcher specializing in diasporic aesthetics, and the survival and evolution of African retentions. She was a 2014 United Nations Program for People of African Descent Fellow and a 2012–13 Andy Warhol Curatorial Fellow. Lewis has curated exhibitions for several institutions including the Museum of Contemporary African Diasporan Arts; Aljira, a Center for Contemporary Art; Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture; and the African American Museum in Philadelphia. Her traveling curatorial initiative, The Dandy Lion Project, examines global black dandyism through photography and film.

Celebrating 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man

The style of the dandy is elegant but bold ― dedicated to the perfection of taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history; the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England, can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. Dandy Style celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man. Combining fashion, art, and photography, the historic and the contemporary, the provocative and the respectable, it considers key themes in the development of male style and identity, including elegance, uniformity, and spectacle. Various types of dandy are represented by iconic figures such as Oscar Wilde, Edward VIII as Prince of Wales, and Gilbert & George. They appear alongside the seminal designs of Vivienne Westwood, Ozwald Boateng, and Alexander McQueen; and portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and David Hockney.

About the Author:

Shaun Cole is associate professor in fashion at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton. Miles Lambert is curator of costume at Manchester Art Gallery.

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Пролистать книгу Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion на Google Books.

Celebrating 30 years of Dazed’s boundary-pushing storytelling at the forefront of youth culture, this book reveals the past, present, and future of Dazed through its bold cover designs and manifesto-like headlines.

In 1991, the first issue of Dazed & Confused was released as a single A2 foldout newsprint by a then 20-year-old Jefferson Hack and the photographer Rankin. Now, 30 years later, what began as a print magazine has gone on to provoke a change in consciousness, becoming a vital cultural manifesto for today. Created for an audience that wants to be both informed and inspired to imagine, its radical approach to publishing means that Dazed is still at the forefront of youth culture today.

Split into ten chapters — taken from the magazine’s most memorable cover lines — this book explores how these early manifestos reflect the magazine’s ethos today. Time-travelling from the ’90s to now, a new generation of image-makers sit side by side with archival materials to showcase how Dazed has always interpreted celebrity through its own boundary-pushing lens: from Alexander McQueen and David Bowie’s first official, recorded conversation and the designer’s “Fashion-Able?” cover, to a rare appearance and guest-edit by Chelsea Manning, to rapper Young Thug shot by Harley Weir.

About the Author:

Jefferson Hack is the CEO and co-founder of Dazed Media, the independent publishing company responsible for Dazed & Confused, Dazed Digital, AnOther Magazine, and Another Man. In 2010, Hack cofounded Nowness, an independent luxury lifestyle video channel in partnership with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. In 2017, Dazed Media and Modern Media formed a joint venture titled Modern Dazed and acquired a majority stake in Nowness.

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Пролистать книгу Dazed: 30 Years Confused: The Covers

The world and creativity of Elio Fiorucci seen from the inside and recounted by those who took part in his fashion adventure.

The fashion and stores created by Elio Fiorucci in the late 1960s were a great creative hotbed for the following decades, anticipating many of the trends that emerged later and the ideas of the next generation of designers.

Elio Fiorucci's innate curiosity led him to explore the unknown, to broaden his vision towards new currents of freedom of expression, beyond the borders of his country, in search of other energies.

This book recalls his new, joyful, mocking, free realm, and the conception of unconventional clothing that upset the rules of the bourgeois, conformist world of the 1960s.

It is a choral fresco, told through the letters of those who worked with him, including absolute beginners, professionals who knew him and shared his passions, family, and friends: architects such as Antonio Citterio and Michele De Lucchi, photographers, artists (Andy Warhol and Keith Haring, who decorated the entire Milan store in 1983), singers, and actors who attended his stores and parties. Direct testimonials come from the likes of Biba (Barbara Hulanicki), Oliviero Toscani, Donna Jordan, Terry Jones, Italo Lupi, Alessandro Mendini, Paul Caranicas and Joey Arias. The book also features a preface by Janie and Stephen Schaeffer, the current brand owners.

About the Author:

Franco Marabelli is a designer whose professional relationship with Elio Fiorucci began in the 1970s, when he redesigned the San Babila store in Milan.

Dana Thomas's Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Lustre goes deep inside the workings of today's world of profit margins and market share to discover the real meaning of 'luxury'.

Fashion may be fabulous, but what's the true price of luxury? From the importance of fashion owners, to red carpet stars and the seasonal 'must-have' handbags, Dana Thomas shows how far illustrious houses have moved from their roots. Thomas witnesses how these 'luxury' handbags are no longer one in a million, discovers why luxury brand clothing doesn't last as long, and finds out just who is making your perfume.

From terrifying raids on the Chinese sweatshops to the daunting chic of Paris workshops, from the handcrafting and economics of early-twentieth-century designers to the violent truth behind the 'harmless' fakes, Deluxe goes deep into the world of extravagance, and asks: where can true luxury go now?

About the Author:

Dana Thomas has written for The New York Times magazine, the New Yorker, WSJ, the Financial Times, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and was the European editor of Condé Nast Portfolio. She is a contributing editor for T: The New York Times Style magazine, and the author of Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. She lives in Paris.

Dana Thomas is now European Editor for Portfolio following twelve years as the cultural and fashion writer for Newsweek in Paris. She has written about style for the New York Times Magazine since 1994, and has contributed to various publications including the New Yorker, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and the Financial Times.

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Creating a collection is a process that requires much thought and organization, with different steps to be considered.

Firstly, it is necessary to find a concept: a theme that structures the designs of the collection and from which the creations are developed. The next step is to design a moodboard, an inspirational collage formed by images, text and samples of materials prior to the design of the collection, which then leads to the initial sketches using the illustration technique of one’s choosing.

Through these 16 tutorials the reader will learn the necessary elements that any process when designing a collection should have and how it should be presented in a portfolio. The techniques used in the book range from watercolour to collage, as well as digital tools. This is a book from which aspiring fashion designers will be able to draw the inspiration needed to launch their own collection.

This publication by the renowned illustrator Claudia Ausonia Palazio presents sixteen examples of capsule collections, each with a different concept and rendered using various illustration techniques.

About the Author:

Claudia Ausonia Palazio attended the 1st Art Academy in Rome and then obtained a two-year degree from the IED in Fashion (1988-1989). She subsequently began working as an assistant costume designer for Bonizza Giordani Aragno, fashion researcher, curator and historian. In the meantime, she attended the Accademia di Alta Moda e Arte del costume Koefia, the renowned Koefia International Haute Couture Academy (Rome, Italy) (1991-1994). At the end of her course, she was asked to join Koefia's staff. She has been working as a fashion design lecturer since 1996.

A comprehensive guide to constructing all kinds of bags, including handmade technical drawing and digital patternmaking.

This comprehensive guide to handbag patternmaking, intended for professionals, skilled hobbyists and students, bridges the gap between craftsmanship and innovative technical developments, including digital patternmaking. This isn't just another patternmaking manual: it's the script that both authors would like to have had when they had doubts about construction techniques while learning the profession, equipping readers with the tools they need to tackle an array of concepts independently. Drawing from their own experiences, the authors provide an easy to work with a notebook-like resource that groups together different construction techniques, providing concise explanations, ensuring that readers gain a deeper understanding of construction methods and understand basic construction principles.

Divided into two parts, the manual first explores the working process of bag patternmakers and their skills. It then explains the anatomy of bags and characteristics of the most popular models, introduces into the reading of style cards and technical drawings, to the signs to be included both in a paper as in a digital pattern to compile all information necessary to make a bag. This will help readers with the second part, as the book guides them through the main construction techniques for each type of bag, explaining sides, handles, flaps, linings and bottoms in meticulous detail, giving tips for a correct realization. Unique in its field, this book is a valuable resource for anyone passionate about or seeking professional growth in this evolving field.

Let these experienced bag designers and makers be your companions on this amazing journey, offering guidance and a wealth of answers to your questions as you unlock your full potential in the art of making handbags of all shapes and sizes.

About the Authors:

Born in Florence in 1992, after finishing high school, Andrea Marcocci immediately entered the world of leather goods as a cutter. Year after year, thanks to his curiosity and resourcefulness, he mastered all the operational aspects of the trade, thus enriching his experience. From the moment he knew this was the right job for him, he began attending evening specialisation courses at different fashion schools in and around Florence, including a basic course in leather goods, a traditional modelling course, and a CAD modelling course, acquiring the foundations and skills he needed to gain technical expertise in the leather goods field. He soon began designing bags for the biggest names in haute couture. Born in Florence in 1993, as an architecture student in search of her future job, Elisa Cigna enrolled in a basic course in leather goods and then a traditional patternmaking course at a local school, winning the end-of-course contest with the 'Florentia' bag inspired by the Church of Santa Maria Novella. This was followed by her first job opportunity at an international brand, where she met her colleague, Andrea Marcocci. Her goal is to continue to develop as a bag model maker and grow in this sector, increasingly expanding her knowledge and skills.

The first Vreeland book to focus on her three decades at Harper’s Bazaar, where the legendary editor honed her singular take on fashion.  

In 1936, Harper’s Bazaar editor in chief Carmel Snow made a decision that changed fashion forever when she invited a stylish London transplant named Diana Vreeland to join her magazine. Vreeland created “Why Don’t You?” — an illustrated column of irreverent advice for chic living. Soon she was named the magazine’s fashion editor — a position that Richard Avedon later famously credited Vreeland with inventing.  

The troika of Snow, legendary art director Alexey Brodovitch, and Vreeland formed a creative collaboration that continued Harper’s Bazaar’s dominance as America’s leading fashion magazine. As World War II changed women’s role in society, Vreeland’s love for fashion and endless imagination provided exciting, modern imagery for this new paradigm. This book covers Vreeland’s three-decade tenure at Bazaar, revealing how Vreeland reshaped the role of the fashion editor by introducing styling, creative direction, and visual storytelling. Her innovative perspective and creative working relationships with photographers such as Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Lillian Bassman, and Hoyningen-Huene brought the American woman into a modern world.

Through more than 300 images from the magazine, this book shows how Vreeland’s work not only influenced her readership, but also forged the path for modern fashion storytelling that endures today.

About the Author:

Alexander Vreeland is the grandson of Diana Vreeland and the president of Diana Vreeland Parfums and the Diana Vreeland Estate. He is the author of Diana Vreeland Memos: The Vogue Years.

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Пролистать книгу Diana Vreeland: the Modern Woman: The Bazaar Years, 1936-1962