Книги о моде и фэшн дизайне

This exclusive volume presents the best features and radically designed pages of the 1990’s most uncompromising document of alternative music, style, and pop culture.

Founded in 1992, Ray Gun was the only magazine wherein a die-hard culture seeker could find information on alternative music and the street-inspired style that really mattered. Punk rock had torn pop music to shreds and created a hunger for an original lifestyle beyond mainstream culture, and Ray Gun was its graphic chronicler: across its pages blasted a visual feast made up of era-defining artists such as Sonic Youth or Iggy Pop, music-inspired art, and a complete redefinition of sartorial style. The magazine’s original art director, David Carson, and his peers who followed, created an entirely new visual culture that shattered the limitations of graphic design.

Ray Gun was as radical as the lifestyle it reported on, deeply committed to visually representing an alternative culture as a new way of seeing and being in the world. With over 200 full-color photographs, Ray Gun: The Bible of Music and Style gathers the most outrageous pages from the magazine that helped to shape the ’90s. This epic anthology features exclusive photographs and articles on rock legends such as R.E.M., HenryRollins, Jane’s Addiction, The Pixies, Dinosaur Jr., U2, Marilyn Manson, Smashing Pumpkins, NineInch Nails, Mudhoney, Pearl Jam, Bjork, Morrissey, PJ Harvey, Beastie Boys, Soundgarden, Beck and an exclusive interview with David Bowie.

About the Authors:

Marvin Scott Jarrett is a celebrated creative force in the worlds of publishing, film, and television, as well as founder of Ray Gun and Nylon. Liz Phair is a legendary alt-rock goddess; Wayne Coyne is frontman of The Flaming Lips; Dean Kuipers is an arts and environmental writer; Steven Heller is an art director and co-chair of the MFA Design Department at the School of Visual Arts.

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An unprecedented look at women’s everyday clothes — from Sylvia Plath’s Girl Scout uniform to psychedelic microminis, modern suits, and fast-food workers’ uniforms — this fascinating volume shows how American women from every background have lived, worked, and dressed for 200 years.

Groundbreaking in its focus on the everyday clothing of ordinary American women — a subject neglected in most fashion histories — Real Clothes, Real Lives highlights over 300 garments and accessories from the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. This unique survey honors countless lives, tracing through the lens of dress how women’s roles have changed over the decades. Each piece holds colorful stories about the woman who wore it, the one who made or bought it, and her context in place and time. Whether homemade or ready-made, many of the garments are modest and inexpensive. Some are one-of-a-kind pieces; others are examples of clever making-do, which seems particularly relevant today; and most reflect the popular styles of their era. Among the many extraordinary examples are a rare World War I uniform worn by an American woman working behind enemy lines and a 1970s go-go dancer’s costume.

Exceptional photography and rich archival visuals accompany the highly readable texts, which offer a wealth of historical and social analysis of a side of fashion and feminism rarely considered.

About the Authors:

Kiki Smith is Professor of Theatre at Smith College and director of the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. She is also a professional costume and set designer. Diane von Furstenberg oversees her eponymous global lifestyle brand. Past president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she is author of several books, including DVF: Journey of a Dress. Vanessa Friedman is fashion director and chief fashion critic for the New York Times.

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Originally published in 2007, Red Carpet struck a chord with all of us who can't get enough of the Hollywood red carpet scene at the biggest celebrity award shows, movie premieres, and parties. No book since the original edition has brought the reader so close to the velvet rope. Now, in this updated volume, relive 30 years of red carpet moments captured in more than 250 photographs of style makers and A-listers.

Red Carpet provides an unending runway show of the entertainment industry's most celebrated personalities in the greatest gowns and high fashion. Celebrity photographer Frank Trapper shares his front-row seat to nearly every major star-studded Hollywood event for the past three decades: the Oscars, Emmys, and A-list movie premieres.

About the Author:

Frank Trapper is an acclaimed celebrity photographer that has been covering the Hollywood beat for more than 30 years. Based in Los Angeles, where he does most of his work, his images have appeared in countless national and international magazines and newspapers.

The area of recycling and upcycling is a rich and growing source of innovative design in the fashion and accessories industries.

In a fast-fashion world of throw-away clothing, it is the ultimate expression of the slow-fashion movement, with each piece individually conceived and crafted from scratch, using different materials each time.

ReFashioned features 46 international designers who work with recycled materials and discarded garments, reinvigorating them with new life and value. The result is beautiful and desirable clothing and accessories that also make an important statement to the fashion world about its wasteful and exploitative practices.

About the Author:

Sass Brown is Acting Assistant Dean for the School of Art and Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. Originally from London, England, Sass established herself as a designer with her own signature collection selling in the UK and across Canada. As a researcher, writer and blogger, her area of expertise is eco fashion, in all of its different expressions, from slow design and heritage craft skills to recycle, reuse and new business models. She has published papers, spoken, taught and advised women’s cooperatives and educational institutions in Brazil, Peru, Columbia, Sri Lanka, Italy, France, US, Canada and the UK, on the topic of sustainable design. Voted in the top 10 Women Who Changed the Face of Fashion by Fashion Compassion, Brown promotes the best in eco-fashion design, through a multitude of media, most notably her books, her website www.ecofashiontalk.com and her journalism.

Contents:

Foreword by Natalie Chanin (Founder of Alabama Chanin, US hand made clothing and homewares)

Introduction

Chapter One
Designers Working with Used Clothing (e.g. worn and discarded garments) or
Used Industrial Materials (e.g. defunct flour sacks)
Opening Text
2ETN (jewellery) [US]; Artemas Quibble (bags / jewellery) [US]
Atelier Awash [Germany]; CeeBee (bags / jewellery) [Italy]
Christopher Raeburn [UK]; Clare Bare (lingerie) [US]
Dalaleo (bags / jewellery)    [Brazil / Italy]; Denham [Netherlands]
Jeffrey Wang [China]; Julia Barbee [US]
Junky Styling [UK]; km/a [Austria]; KONDAKIS [Kenya]
Lu Flux [UK]; MAYER Peace Collection [Germany]
MILCH [Austria]; Nudie Jeans [Sweden]
Odette Picaud (jewellery / accessories) [France]
Otra (jewellery) [Canada / France]
Raggedy     [UK]; Saisei (bags) [Italy]
Schmidt Takahashi  [Germany]; Silent People (bags) [Italy]
Sylwia Rochala [Poland]; Tamara Fogle (bags) [UK]
The BEA Project [US]; Trashed Couture    [UK]
Ute Decker (jewellery) [UK / Germany]

Chapter Two
Designers Working with Unused Clothing Waste (e.g. textile cut-offs) or Unused Industrial Materials (e.g. plastic product scraps created during the manufacturing process)
Opening Text
Carmina Campus (bags) [Italy / Africa]
Eva Zingoni [France]; Friends with Benefits [US]
From Somewhere  [UK]; Goodone [UK]
Hibrida (accessories) [Chile]; Juana Diaz [Chile]
Kerry Howley (jewellery) [UK]
Michelle Lowe-Holder (jewellery) [UK]
Paulina Plizga [France]; Piece x Piece [US]
Rachel Freire [UK]; R.ds [Denmark]
Reet Aus [Estonia]; Steinwidder [Austria]
Trash-Couture [Denmark]; Waste Away (accessories)  [UK]

Conclusion

Further Reading
Designers’ Websites
Picture Credits and Acknowledgements

As our climate, ecological and social crises converge, urgent action is needed to maximize our chances of survival. A new commercial approach is possible but it requires a systemic shift, with companies learning to operate as part of a wider 'ecosystem', allowing fashion to restore what it has taken.

Regenerative Fashion presents a roadmap for new ways of doing fashion. To keep our planet safe, we must cut production and end our dependency on fossil fuels. We must also create dignified livelihoods for the millions of people working in the industry. By using natural resources, paying factory workers and farmers a living wage and scaling up craft production, we can not only rebuild soils, ecosystems and biodiversity, but also support decarbonization, regenerate communities and ensure a just transition for all.

Part guide and part manifesto, this book shares stories of our interconnectedness with the natural world and each other, divided into sections on Nature & Materials; People, Livelihoods & Crafts; and New Economy & Leadership. Fully illustrated throughout, it features interviews from best-practice designers and businesses around the world, as well as thought pieces from leading campaigners within the industry.

About the Author:

Safia Minney MBE is an award-winning social entrepreneur, speaker and advisor. She has over 20 years' experience as global CEO of the company she founded, People Tree, developing the first sustainable and Fair Trade supply chains and standards, and she has various advisory roles with businesses, networks and charities.

Nineties fashion-from grunge, to Clueless's Alaïa, to Margiela's new couture-is an essential reference point for contemporary style. This book, created in tandem with an exhibition at The Museum at FIT, documents the changing culture, attitudes, and creatives that ushered in our visual age.

Minimalism. Deconstruction. The rejuvenation of established houses. These are just a few of the concepts that have come to define 1990s fashion. Others include an increased concern with environmentalism, developing technologies and the beginning of the fashion internet, freewheeling historical references, and a predilection for lifting significant styles from other cultures (the issues raised by this 'borrowing' are reviewed through a contemporary lens). In the twenty years since the decade ended, the fashion world has experienced several nineties revivals.

Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s focuses specifically on designers who challenged the expected appearance or workings of high fashion, and who played an important role in laying the foundation for fashion of the twenty-first century, including: Tom Ford, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Martin Margiela, Stella McCartney, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Viktor & Rolf. Additional chapters address changes to fashion editorials and campaigns (under talents like Steven Meisel, Corinne Day, Inez & Vinoodh, Mark Borthwick, and Nan Goldin), a new theatricality to runway presentations, and the emergence of fashion theory as a field.

About the Author:

Colleen Hill is curator of costume and accessories at The Museum at FIT, New York. Valerie Steele is director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT and founding editor of Fashion Theory. Patricia Mears is deputy director of The Museum at FIT. Shonagh Marshall is a curator, writer, and arts consultant with a specialization in fashion and contemporary culture based in New York City.

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The definitive monograph on the fashion of Rick Owens -- one of the most daring and influential designers working today -- this book documents over a decade of sublime, iconic styles.

Since the establishment of his label in 1994, Rick Owens has transformed global fashion with his provocative clothing and subversive style. Distinguished by his grunge-meets-glamour aesthetic and defiant anti-fashion stance, Owens created a dark fashion empire that has accrued a devoted international following which gravitates toward the brand's sublime tailoring, somber palette, mystical layers, and gritty elegance.

Filled with photographs of Owens's most impressive looks from the last decade, this volume is conceived as a celebration of the Rick Owens aesthetic, approximating with printing effects some of the mystery and detailing associated with the brand. Iconic imagery taken from Owens's seminal lookbooks provides a unique look at the output of design from an artist who is at once comfortable with developing technologies and respectful of traditional approaches.

With principal photography by Danielle Levitt -- who achieved considerable acclaim for her social-realist images -- this book is essential for lovers of avant-garde fashion, photography, and design.

About the Authors:

Rick Owens is an American fashion designer and winner of a Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award.
Danielle Levitt is an American photographer based in New York.

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Over 100 years of travel essentials by the collectible luxury luggage brand RIMOWA, whose signature aluminium cases have forever entered the contemporary design lexicon.

Since its beginnings in 1898 in Cologne, Germany, RIMOWA has been at the forefront of innovation, with a heritage marked by crafting the highest quality luggage for voyagers of every era. Throughout the twentieth century and into the present day, RIMOWA has always met revolutions in transportation with a pragmatic, industrial, and resolutely modern approach. From locomotives and steamships of the past to today's jetliners and beyond, its expertly engineered cases combine a distinctly streamlined design with technical prowess. With this rich history, coupled with recent collaborations with contemporary cult brands such as Supreme, Dior, Off-White, Porsche, and Fendi, the storied house's wares have built a reputation as coveted items for the discerning, purposeful traveler.

This new volume spotlights a selection of the most iconic pieces from RIMOWA's archives via captivating, never-before-published photographs exclusively shot for this publication, enriched with illustrations and other vintage brand material. From early turn-of-the-century trunks and leather luggage and the pioneering invention of the first lightweight aluminum suitcase in 1937, to the iconic 1950 grooved design inspired by the fuselage of classic aircrafts, rarefied imagery pays homage to the emblematic fixtures of RIMOWA's past and present, and with it the history of more than a century of travel.
Crafted in Italy and printed on the finest European papers, this oversize tome serves as an ode to RIMOWA's thirst for innovation and functional approach to modern luxury.

About the Author:

RIMOWA is a luxury luggage brand established in 1898 in Cologne by Paul Morszeck. Since its founding, it has placed quality and innovation at its core, creating luggage for the discerning, purposeful traveler. Designed and engineered in Germany, RIMOWA combines heritage and craftsmanship with the rigors of modern technology.

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A fascinating historical overview of the evolution of ring design from the Middle Ages to today, illustrated with almost 200 rare and luxurious examples drawn from the V&A's collections

Rings are powerfully evocative pieces of jewelry, traditionally worn as symbols of love, loyalty, remembrance or faith. Focusing on the V&A’s world-famous collection, Rings tells the story of their evolution from sculptural gem-set bands worn in medieval times to Art Deco masterpieces, dramatic gemstone ‘rocks’ of the 1950s, and innovative works of art created by contemporary jewelers.

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Rings are powerfully evocative pieces of jewelry, traditionally worn as symbols of love, loyalty, remembrance or faith. Focusing on the V&A’s world-famous collection, Rings tells the story of their evolution from sculptural gem-set bands worn in medieval times to Art Deco masterpieces, dramatic gemstone ‘rocks’ of the 1950s, and innovative works of art created by contemporary jewellers.

Table of Contents:

Introduction • 1. 1200 – 1500 • 2. 1500 – 1700 • 3. 1700 – 1820 • 4. 1820 – 1900 • 5. 1900 – 1950 • 6. 1950 – Present

Rachel Church is a Curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum with a special responsibility for the rings collection. She has published and lectured on jewelry and worked on the re-display of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery. She has contributed to a number of V&A publications, including writing on gold boxes in The Gilbert Collection at the V&A (2009).

A gorgeous tribute to the legendary shoe and accessories designs of Roger Vivier

Master designer Roger Vivier elevated both the form and decoration of ladies’ shoes during his sixty-year career. His innate Parisian style embodied a sense of perfection and craftsmanship, and his work was coveted by style icons from Elsa Schiaparelli to Jackie Onassis. Described by Yves St. Laurent as bringing to his work a "level of charm, delicacy, refinement and poetry unsurpassed," he created the first stiletto heel for a ready-to-wear shoe line with the house of Dior in 1955.

His shoes are legendary, and the tradition of his innovative spirit continues with the revival of the house by current designer Bruno Frisoni, who has updated Vivier’s concepts, bringing his own touch to signature shapes and embellishments (including the buckle pump made famous by Catherine Deneuve in Belle du Jour).

This lavish volume celebrates the history of the venerated house and charts the current evolution of the fantastic haute-couture designs that keep Roger Vivier at the top of every well-dressed woman’s list.

With gorgeous new photography of the house’s collection of vintage shoes, beautifully rendered sketches, and details of the amazing accessories coming out of Roger Vivier today, this book is as chic as the shoes that fill its pages.

About the Author

Virginie Mouzat is the fashion critic of the French daily newspaper Le Figaro. Loïc Prigent is a documentary filmmaker. Colombe Pringle is a journalist and the editor of Point de Vue magazine. Olivier Saillard is the director of the Musée Galliera in Paris. Ines de la Fressange is the author of Parisian Chic. Catherine Deneuve is a celebrated French actress. Bruno Frisoni is the creative director of Roger Vivier. Cate Blanchett is an award-winning actress of stage and screen.

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A highly personal journey through the creative universe of the fashion designer who brought us the galaxy dress — the defining look of the noughties.

Called the King of Curves, Roland Mouret marks his twentieth year in fashion with this definitive monograph featuring an in-depth look at his innovative designs, inspirations, and industry collaborations. This book is conceived as a series of conversations — between Alexander Fury and Mouret, and visually,between Mouret’s clothing and the women who wear it. Led by specially commissioned photography shot especially for this volume, each chapter unfolds in thematic narratives that lure readers deeper and deeper into Mouret’s world: sensuality, glamour, uniform, transformation, identity, and reinvention are just some of the themes explored. A detailed index of each garment appearing in the book completes this much-anticipated volume from the so-called master of the dress.

About the Author: 

Critically acclaimed French fashion designer Roland Mouret is the recipient of numerous accolades, including Elle British Designer of the Year and a record three nominations at the Lycra British Fashion Awards. Mouret’s work is praised for its originality both within and outside the industry. Mouret has flagship stores on Madison Avenue in New York and in London’s Mayfair. Alexander Fury is editor of AnOther magazine.

Renowned designer and former US national team oarsman Jack Carlson’s revised and expanded edition of Rowing Blazers is an essential and glorious celebration of the classic garment.

This handsome, eye-catching ode to the classic rowing blazer is a must-have for anyone who has raced the rivers or cheered on their favorite crew. Classic American style was born in British boathouses, where the very first blazers were made for college rowing clubs. This book, now revised and expanded, was created by champion rower Jack Carlson, who offers an insider’s guide to the elaborately striped, piped, trimmed, and badged garments, as well as the stories, historic clubs, and races associated with them and, of course, the elite athletes themselves.

Featuring stunning color photographs, Rowing Blazers is a visual feast, transporting readers to the highly atmospheric boathouses, campuses, and team rooms of clubs around the world. This revised edition features some 40 additional clubs, including the University of Tokyo; the Shanghai Rowing Club; Row New York, a nonprofit organization stressing academic achievement as well as rowing prowess; and Manley Career Academy High School in Chicago, the first all-Black high school rowing team in the US.

About the Authors:

Jack Carlson is a designer, archaeologist, former US team athlete, and founder of the acclaimed New York–based clothing brand Rowing Blazers. A three-time member of the United States national rowing team, he is a World Championships bronze medalist, Henley Royal Regatta winner, and Head of the Charles champion. Carlson has a PhD in archaeology from Brasenose College, Oxford, and an undergraduate degree in Classics and Chinese from Georgetown’s School of Foreign Service. He is a Fellow of the Explorers Club and a member of the I.B.F. (the International Bar Flies) at Harry’s Bar in Paris.

A stunning volume showcasing the magnificent court dress of the Russian Empire, culled from the authoritative collection at the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, photographed with the Winter Palace as a backdrop. Prerevolutionary Russia was renowned for the glamorous and luxurious lifestyles of the nobility, with their opulent palaces and glittering social life. Now, this lavish volume reveals the incredible clothing they wore, from everyday dress and ceremonial attire (traditional holidays outfits and military uniforms) to dress for special occasions, including elaborate evening wear for theater and musical events and fancy masquerade balls. Celebrated for luxurious materials and impeccable craftsmanship, the dress of the Russian nobility was haute couture at its finest. With beautiful photography and details highlighting the hand-spun silks and lace and jeweled embroideries, Russian Splendor highlights the glamour of this gilded age and offers a fascinating window into a vanished world. Essays by Hermitage Museum curators, alongside historic Russian paintings and photographs, place the clothing in a historical context, revealing the rich cultural layers and artistic influences of czarist Russia.

About the Author:

Mikhail Piotrovsky has been the director of the State Hermitage Museum since 1992 and has dedicated his career to making the treasures of the museum accessible to individuals and institutions around the world. Georgy Vilinbakhov, Evelina Tarasova, Tamara Korshunova, Nina Tarasova, and Julia Plotnikova are top researchers and curators at the Historic Costume Department of the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia.

The dramas and private tales, the suits and their accoutrements, the fabrics and the cuts, the history and future of Savile Row, as never before

The skilled tailors of Savile Row in Mayfair, central London, have dressed kings, movie stars, rock legends, billionaires – and even a few regular guys. A Savile Row suit remains an enduring and highly individual symbol of the finest a man can buy. From its origins close to Britain’s main royal palaces, the Row has grown from clothing aristocrats to military men; more recently it has been revivified by the renewed appreciation of personalized, handmade goods, and by a new generation of modern sartorialists seeking ‘heritage luxury’.

Told through eight chronological themes, this beautifully illustrated celebration brings together Savile Row’s highlights and low-lifes, the dramas and private tales, the suits and their accoutrements, the fabrics and the cuts, the history and future, as never before. Each chapter charts a stage of the Row’s development and its contribution to men’s fashion and culture. Throughout the book are dispersed 26 profiles of today’s master tailors, providing insight into what makes their work, relationships and clothes so special. The book is finely detailed with reference sections on the anatomy and making of the perfect suit.

This once-in-a-lifetime publication, by the archetypal modern gentleman and devoted customer of the Row, weaves a fabric rich with anecdote, personality and sartorial detail.

Contents List:

Introduction • 1. Royal Savile Row: Monarchs Who Ruled the Row • 2. The Beaux on the Row: Men Who Led Fashion • 3. Savile Row at War: Tailoring for Heroes • 4. Savile Row in Hollywood: Aristocrats of the Silver Screen • 5. Savile Row Revival: The New Establishment • 6. Savile Row in Fashion: The Row Revival • Gentlemen’s Requisites; Anatomy of a Suit; Making a Suit; The Language of Savile Row

About the Authors:

James Sherwood is a London-based style journalist, and has been described as ‘the guardian of Savile Row’ by The Rake magazine. He is the author of Savile Row, Fashion at Royal Ascot, James Sherwood’s discriminating Guide to London and Jewelry for Gentleman, all published by Thames & Hudson.

Tom Ford is former creative director of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent and founder of the Tom Ford fashion house. He recently directed his first feature film, the critically acclaimed A Single Man.

The definitive work on scarves in the 20th century

Indispensable accessories and sought-after collectors’ items, scarves were an important innovation in 20th-century fashion. From Art Deco through 1950s Hollywood, the Swinging Sixties and beyond, scarves have been represented in every major decorative arts movement over the past century and into the present one.

This marvellously illustrated compendium showcases the work of a wide range of international designers: Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Gucci, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent, Zandra Rhodes, Nicole Miller, and many more. It features more than 250 scarves, beautifully reproduced in colour and all specially photographed, and many never before seen in print.

Contents List:

Introduction • The Style of an Era • Artists’ Scarves • Textile Designers • Scarf Companies • The Couture Scarf • Social Documentary • The Travel Scarf • Advertising • Collectables • A–Z Biographies of Designers • A–Z Index of Companies • Guide to Fabric Types • How to Date a Vintage Scarf • Conservation and Storage • Resource Guide • Further Reading

About the Authors:

Nicky Albrechtsen is the proprietor of the Vintage Resource Studio in Brick Lane, London, which provides costumes and props to the theatre and media. Fola Solanke is a costume designer for film and television historical dramas.