Книги по дизайну ювелирных изделий

This book is a poetic and timeless memento, a voyage into the heart of jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels’ universe to discover their creations.

This opus, arranged as an alphabetical guide, is a veritable A-Z lexicon that revisits the themes and codes of the famous jeweler: indispensable historical references to emblematic jewels, precision watchmaking and jewelry-making techniques demonstrating unique savoir faire, and artistic collaborations. Fabienne Reybaud’s lively text leads the reader into the center of an enchanting world where everything wondrous and fantastical serves as an ever-rejuvenating source of inspiration and creativity.

This poetic and timeless memento is magnificently illustrated with fabulous miniature worlds inhabited by the masterpieces that have forged the international identity and renown of the jewelers Van Cleef & Arpels.

About the Author:

Fabienne Reybaud is a distinguished editor specialized in the luxury world, notably in jewelry and watchmaking. She writes for the most prestigious French publications and has published more than ten books, including Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium (Assouline, 2022), Louis Vuitton Tambour (Thames & Hudson, 2022), Effortless Style: Casa Lopez with Pierre Sauvage (Flammarion, 2018), Rolex: The Impossible Collection (Assouline, 2018), Watches: The Ultimate Guide (Assouline, 2006/2010), and 100 Montres de Légende with Frédéric Ramade (Solar,1999).

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Пролистать книгу A Dictionary of Wonders: Van Cleef & Arpels: The Enchanted World of Van Cleef and Arpels​ на сайте издательства.

Costume jewellery is commonly understood to mean fashionable yet affordable adornments made from non-precious material. Originating in in mid-1700s France with the rise of the bourgeoise, the earliest ‘costume jewellery’ mimicked fine jewellery styles. Since then, costume jewellery has always been evolving. From Victorian sentimentalism to the mass-produced ornaments available today, costume jewellery has developed into an artform in its own right. An encyclopaedic study of its history is long overdue. Flush with expert information, identification tips and historical anecdotes, Adorning Fashion explores the development of costume jewellery across the past four centuries. The styles of each era – Victorian, Edwardian, Arts & Crafts, Jugenstil, Art Nouveau, and each decade of the twentieth century – are given individual attention. Production methods are also explained in depth. Alloys and gilded electroplating can mimic silver and gold, while the refraction index of treated glass can, to the untrained eye, be mistaken for diamond.

Adorning Fashion discusses the contributions of a remarkable roster of designers and innovators, including Kokichi Mikimoto, Arthur L. Liberty, Carlo Giuliano, René Lalique, Elizabeth Bonté, the Castellani brothers, Jean Fouquet, Jean Després, Fulco di Verdura, Jean Schlumberger, Salvador Dalí, Miriam Haskell, Lina Baretti, Countess Cissy Zoltowska, Line Vautrin, Kenneth Jay Lane, Francisco Rebajes, Diane Love, Christian Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paco Rabanne, Yves Saint Laurent, Napier, Haskell, Trifari, Brania, Bulgari, Versace and more.

- Definitive, comprehensive overview of costume jewellery
- Follows the evolution of costume jewellery from bourgeois France to the present day
- Lavishly illustrated reference book - a must-buy for jewellery enthusiasts and fashion historians
- Includes a remarkable range of designers including Lalique, Fouquet, Dior, Balenciaga, Versace and many more

About the Author:

Deanna Farneti Cera has been researching and writing on the subject of vintage jewellery for over thirty years. An international expert on European and American fashion jewellery, Deanna was the curator and acting Vice Director at the Municipal Gallery of Modern Art in Bologna from 1975-1980, and has curated the exhibitions Le giolie di Hollywood - American Designers of Fashion Jewellery 1920-1960 (1987) and Jewels of Fantasy (1991). She wrote the book Bijoux (Federico Motta Editore, 2010), which was translated into Costume Jewellery (UK Edition) and Amazing Gems (US Edition). Deanna lives and works in Mila

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Пролистать книгу Adorning Fashion: The History of Costume Jewellery to Modern Times

This comprehensive overview, organized by material and period, allows the reader to distinguish, appraise, and date French jewelry from 1800‒1950.

This highly accessible guide offers a detailed panorama charting the evolution of French jewelry created between the Consulate period in the 1800s through to the 1950s. Iconic examples include Onyx cameos, “dormeuses” earrings in rose gold, an Art Deco solitaire, a sapphire “you and me” ring, a diamond “shaker” brooch, and an emerald “negligee” necklace.

Entries are organized by period, and include primary sources of inspiration and characteristics, designers, materials, gemstones, and types of jewelry. Completed with an overview of the key design houses and artists who have left their mark on the jewelry industry since 1800, along with detailed advice for buying and maintaining pieces, this practical reference — richly illustrated with photographs and archival documents — provides everything you need to know to appreciate antique jewelry in all its facets.

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This indispensable reference to antique French jewelry gives amateur and professional jewelry enthusiasts the knowledge and confidence to:
• recognize and date a piece of antique jewelry
• identify the principal gemstones
• distinguish the major French jewelry designers
• buy and sell antique pieces
• have works appraised

Charting the evolution of French jewelry created between the Consulate period (established by general Napoleon Bonaparte on the cusp of the nineteenth century) and the 1950s, this practical guide defines each era by identifying its hallmark trends, materials, gemstones, main types of jewelry, and historic jewelry houses. Richly illustrated with photographs, drawings, and archival documents, and featuring iconic designs such as the “tank” bracelet, “you-and-me” ring, “négligé” pendant, and Zip necklace, this essential book covers antique French jewelry in all of its scintillating facets.

About the Author:

Victoire de Castellane is artistic director of Dior Jewelry. Geoffray Riondet runs the Riondet design house, and is an antique jewelry specialist, legal expert, and gemologist. Riondet drew upon the expertise of Valérie Goupil, Anne Laurent, Loïc Lescuyer, Gérard Panczer, and Brigitte Serre-Bourt, professors at the French National Institute of Gemology (ING, Paris-Lyon).

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Пролистать книгу  Antique French Jewelry: 1800-1950 на сайте издательства.

Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art.

From Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller’s preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th-century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the ’60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art.

Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces’ creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre’s evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors.

This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike. Contents: Introduction What is Art as Jewellery Foreword Artists (more than 50 are covered, including Alexander Calder, Salvador Dalì, Man ray, Pablo Picasso, Louise Nevelson, Max Ernst and Corneille) Exhibitions

_Includes an introduction by Vivienne Becker, an award-winning jewellery writer, and a contribution from Julia Peyton Jones, previous director of the Serpentine Gallery, London
_A marvellous array of images, from archived photographs and sketches that have not been seen since the '60s, and the work of 20th-century photographers such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, to modern shoots by Alexander English

With lip art worthy of a museum, this collection showcases the magic Vlada Haggerty creates with lipstick.

From opulent to optical illusion, Haggerty’s art is a blend of makeup and magic that transforms her lips into canvases. Makeup artist royalty, her work is washed across the Internet, lips dripping and bedazzled, transformed by talent and a vision that’s helped shape the beauty industry.

Featuring over 200 photographs of Haggerty’s work, Art of the Lip is a sumptuous tome to flip through and marvel at the minute-painted details on her lips in each photo. Gloss, lipstick, sequins, and jewels transform Haggerty’s skin in hundreds of different images, with looks inspired by nature, jewelry, pop culture, and more.

Much more than just lipstick, Haggerty’s art is a showcase of makeup’s power and an artist’s innovation.

About the Author:

Vlada Haggerty is a Ukrainian cosmetic artist based in Los Angeles. She works as a makeup artist, beauty and cosmetic photographer, and lip artist. Her makeup and photography have been featured in publications internationally, including Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine, Harper’s Bazaar Kazakhstan, Vogue México, Vogue India, Cosmopolitan, Refinery29, Make-Up Artist Magazine, and many, many more. She has worked with Smashbox Cosmetics as their Lip Editor in Chief and her worked has inspired makeup artists everywhere.

Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique — these great designers came together only once to display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition ever mounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting his jewelry and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European culture.

The array of displayed objects was mesmerizing: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism, and symbolism, and of styles from around the world.

Four essays discuss the works in the context of their times, illuminate the high societies served by the three masters, and trace the cultural trends behind their extraordinary creations. A treasure of accompanying photographs shows the individual exhibits, scenes from the World's Fair, and the glitterati who wore the jewelry. 

About the Authors:

Stephen Harrison is curator of decorative arts at the Cleveland Museum of Art. 
Emmanuel Ducamp has written and lectured widely on Russian and French decorative arts. 
Jeannine Falino is an independent curator, formerly the Carolyn and Peter Lynch Curator of Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Jewelry, long associated with luxury, is also becoming a medium for social responsibility and ethical values. Kyle Roderick, an authority on ethical jewelry, profiles fifteen designers who are at the forefront of refashioning the medium for today's consumers.

In the wake of Charles Leavitt's insightful 2006 movie Blood Diamond, which told how conflict diamonds fund civil wars, the buying and wearing of ethically sourced and sustainably mined jewelry has become a priority in today's luxury market. Bejeweled is the first book to cover this timely subject. Profiling leading international designers who are at the forefront of the ethical jewelry movement, this beautifully photographed publication examines how an ancient art is powering a green revolution in chic jewelry for everyone.

Included are renowned designers such as Pippa Small, an early user of fair-mined gold, who employs local artisans to fabricate her one-of-a-kind pieces; Dewey Nelson, a Native American Hopi who incorporates 1,000-year-old tribal motifs in his reclaimed-silver pieces; and Loren Nicole, whose jewelry features intricate hand-carved gemstones and 22-karat gold alloyed in the same formula used by ancient Roman goldsmiths. Illustrated with exquisite photographs of individual pieces, featured both alone and on celebrities, who are turning the red carpet "green" by wearing ethically sourced jewelry, Bejeweled is for all gemstone and design fans.

About the Author:

Journalist Kyle Roderick is the founder and editor in chief of BIJOUXreview. She covers design-driven jewelry and timepieces for Forbes and other publications.

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Пролистать книгу Bejeweled: The World of Ethical Jewelry

A lavish monograph on the esteemed Spanish jewelry designer, whose work celebrates nature, geometry and the cosmos, on the occasion of her fiftieth anniversary.

Called the “queen of plique-à-jour,” after the historic and rarified enameling technique, Luz Camino has been in a continuous conversation with the world around her through her art; everything from birds, flowers, and shapes to rubber bands and even pencil shavings have been her muse. This first monograph on her work featuring more than two hundred fifty of her creations, many of which have never before been seen outside of private collections. This book beautifully showcases the sophistication, innovation, and creativity of one of the most adept jewelers working today.

About the Author:

Luz Camino is the first female master jeweler in Spain. She has spent the past fifty years mastering contemporary and antique jewelry techniques, developing an expansive collection of unique pieces with a wide range of inspirations and typologies. Her work is in the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Museum of Arts and Design in New York. Clare Phillips is the Elisabeth Gage Curator of Jewellery from the Department of Decorative Art and Sculpture at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Carolina Herrera is an American fashion designer who launched her eponymous label in 1981. Her awards include the 2004 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award and their Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2008.

An engaging overview of the changing styles and uses of brooches and badges from the Middle Ages to today

From medieval pilgrim badges and Renaissance hat decorations to jewelled brooches and twentieth-century political pins, brooches and badges are often more than practical or decorative dress fasteners; they are expressions of identity. Focusing on the V&A’s world-famous collection, Brooches and Badges explores the evolution of these intricate and versatile works of art, and the way in which changes in dress have dictated their use.

Contents List:

Introduction • 1. ‘Send…letters, tokens, brooches, and ranges’ 1000–1500 • 2. ‘Rich Apparell, precious Jewells’ 1500–1800 • 3. ‘Any number of brooches, up and down and everywhere’ 1800–1900 • 4. ‘The new jewel has been born’ 1900–1920 • 5. ‘Clips are going like wildfire’ 1920–1940 • 6. ‘Almost anything goes’ 1940–1960 • 7. ‘Precious stones have won their freedom’ 1960-1990 • 8. ‘The shock of beauty’ 1990–The Present • References; Glossary; Further Reading; Notes; Major Collections Featuring Brooches and Badges Acknowledgments; Author’s Biography; Index

About the Author:

Rachel Church is a Curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum with a special responsibility for the rings collection. She has published and lectured on jewelry and worked on the re-display of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery. She has contributed to a number of V&A publications, including writing on gold boxes in The Gilbert Collection at the V&A (2009).

A "cool" guide to Rome, with an emotional tour of the city's key historical sites and monuments revisited through the inspiration behind Bvlgari's jewelry.

Since 1884, the majestic beauty of the Eternal City and its rich archaeological, artistic, and cultural heritage have represented an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Bvlgari. Yesterday as today, Rome's monuments and artistic details are gracefully evoked in the brand's jewelry creations. For example, the design of the iconic B-zero1 ring was inspired by the Colosseum, the ultimate symbol of the city, and likewise the recurrent octagonal geometries watch dial refers to the coffered ceiling of the Basilica of Maxentius.

This handy, pocket-sized volume takes us on an unprecedented historical, artistic, and emotional tour of the city. In addition to an actual guide to the monuments, the narration is enriched by short stories by some of the best-known Roman authors from the world of contemporary Italian literature, inspired by the most iconic locations in the city.

The book is further enhanced by contributions from figures linked to the city by birth or by adoption, including renowned names from fashion, cinema, sport, and music.

The Bvlgari jewelry and the places in Rome that inspired it are photographed in stunning images with artistic direction by Jan Králícek.

About the Author:

Jan Králícek studied cultural anthropology and media at Charles University in Prague. He is now creative director of Vogue Czechoslovakia and fashion editor-at-large for VoguePortugal and GQ Portugal. Costantino D'Orazio is an art historian and curator. He was resident curator at MACRO (Contemporary Art Museum of Rome) from 2014-2019, and is curator of public art projects in Villa Borghese Park, Rome. He collaborates with LUISS University and Link Campus and is the author of a number of books dedicated to Rome and italian art.

With an encyclopedic spirit and characteristic flair for color, Bvlgari reconstructs the myth of Eden in a dream of fine jewelry that becomes a manifesto.

Every year, Bvlgari launches a high jewelry collection. The most recent theme is the Garden of Eden, a subject that celebrates nature as a limitless source of inspiration, vitality, and energy — reflected in the wonderful craftsmanship of a Roman brand famous for its colored gems and refined and skillful design.

This extraordinary illustrated book contains exclusive sketches and photographs of the jewelry from the new collection, and artistic references to the iconographic themes of nature and the garden with creative images by contemporary photographers. Poetry on the same topic from various eras and originating from all over the world — from Verlaine to Vita Sackville-West and Emily Dickinson, Federico García Lorca to Khwāju Kermani — also accompanies the images.

In photography by the Korean master Cho Gi-Seok, the unique pieces of the Eden The Garden of Wonders collection, featuring emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and spinals in every color, flourishes in a magical and luxuriant world, a triumph of plants, flowers, and thriving nature.

About the Author:

Simone Marchetti is director of Vanity Fair Italia, where he oversees the European editions of Vanity Fair in France, Spain, and Italy. As a fashion journalist he stands out for his prose, insight, and street style. Lucia Silvestri is the jewelry creative director at Bvlgari. She began her career in the Bvlgari gemological department at the age of eighteen, and the Bvlgari brothers quickly intuited her great potential. Cho Gi-Seok is a fashion and art photographer who was born in Seoul, South Korea, and has his own fashion brand, KUSIKOHC.

Bvlgari’s new high jewelry collection pays tribute to the pioneering visions of indomitable women who blazed their own paths, broke boundaries, or shattered cultural norms.  

In keeping with the inspiration for the jewelry collec-tion, this book is an ode to women, as suggested by the female name “Magnifica.” This launch marks the start of a new chapter in a history filled with energy, impact, and daring creativity, with a collection of outstanding pieces at the height of High Jewelry, creativity, and artisanship, conveyed through exper-tise and craftsmanship.

In a male-dominated world, Bvlgari’s muses have helped forge a new perception of women thanks to their courage, resilience, and talent. Whether they may be artists, art patrons, or intellectuals, they have shared the same ability to think outside the box, reimagining their future in an unapologetic way.

Based on the three pillars of stunning gems, inspiring muses, and the gifted hands of artisans and designers, Bvlgari’s Magnifica book is divided into three sections — Head, Heart, and Hands — and outlines Bvlgari’s new jewelry ecosystem. In addition to gorgeous photographs of jewels, the voices of the contributors to this volume, who are all women, will trace a path of encouragement and provide an example for today’s women to pursue their intuitions and cultivate their talent. 

About the Author:

Tina Leung is a fashion stylist known for her eclectic sense of style. After growing up in Hong Kong and Los Angeles, Leung graduated from Bristol University and spent a year studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Leung returned to Hong Kong, working as a stylist and writer, before launching her personal blog, Tina Loves. Leung has collaborated with luxury brands Valentino, Prada, Chanel, and Loewe, just to name a few. 

This stunning volume accompanies a major exhibition surveying the history behind the iconic jewelry company. Over 350 jewels are paired with haute couture from eminent fashion houses.

This sumptuous book celebrates not just the evolution of Bvlgari's style through more than one hundred years, but also its ability to inspire the modern woman through the ages. Jewels from Bvlgari's heritage collection are matched with one hundred haute couture garments of the same time period from the most illustrious fashion houses, including Chanel, Dior, Prada, Versace, Fendi, Pucci, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and more.

The volume also includes exclusive essays by industry experts and noted historians that explore the history of the Bulgari family starting with the founder, Sotirio Bulgari, who immigrated to Italy from the Balkans in the late nineteenth century. The family's close relationships with members of the international elite are also examined. Many of the world's most famous women have been Bvlgari clients, including Ingrid Bergman, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, and Anita Ekberg. Pieces once owned by Elizabeth Taylor are included in the book, and many of the jewels featured have never been previously exhibited.

About the Author:

Lucia Boscaini is the brand and heritage curator for the Bvlgari Marketing Department, where she is in charge of the company's historical assets and works to publicize the 130-year-old brand.
Chiara Ottaviano is the head of Cliomedia Officina, a pioneering Italian company in the field of public history.

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Пролистать книгу Bulgari: The Story, The Dream

A sumptuous exploration of the influence of the Islamic arts on Cartier’s jewelry, published to accompany a major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris

Cartier and Islamic Art traces the glorious ways Islamic art has inspired Maison Cartier from the early 20th century to today, showing how its geometric patterns and opulent colour palette augured the birth of a decidedly modern aesthetic. Masterpieces of Islamic art, including works brought together from Louis Cartier’s extraordinary personal collection, as well as archival drawings, books and photographs, sit alongside dazzling period photographs of Cartier jewelry, while in-depth texts by distinguished scholars of both Islamic art and architecture as well as the decorative arts illuminate and celebrate the beauty of Islamic art and the astonishing creative genius of Maison Cartier.

Accompanies the exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, from 21 October 2021 to 20 February 2022.

Contents List:

Forewords by Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet and Pierre Rainero

CATALOGUE

Cartier – The Story
Pascale Lepeu

A Journey into the Cartier Archives
Violette Petit

The “Revelation” of Islamic Arts: a Path to Modernity?
Judith Henon-Raynaud and Évelyne Possémé

Exquisite Manuscripts and Inlaid Objects: Reconstructing Louis Cartier’s Collection of Islamic Art
Judith Henon-Raynaud

Cartier and India: a Source of Formal and Technical Renewal
Évelyne Possémé

Cartier’s lexicon of forms: Abstractions, the ‘Arab’ Style, and the ‘Persian’ Style
Heather Ecker

An Exploration of Islamic Aesthetic Influence on Cartier’s Graphics, 1909-1940
Sarah Schleuning

APPENDIX

Check list of exhibited works
(with illustrations)

Comprehensive list of Louis Cartier’s collection (with illustrations)

About the Authors:

Heather Ecker is Marguerite S. Hoffman and Thomas W. Lentz Curator of Islamic and Medieval Art at Dallas Museum of Art. Judith Henon-Renaud is Deputy Director of the Department of Islamic Arts at the Louvre. Pascale Lepeu is curator of the Cartier Collection. Violette Petit is head of the Cartier Paris Archives. Évelyne Possémé is Chief Curator, Art Nouveau-Art Deco and Antique and Modern Jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Sarah Schleuning is Interim Chief Curator and The Margot B. Perot Senior Curator of Decorative Arts and Design at Dallas Museum of Art.

List of Contributors:

Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet, Pierre Rainero

This is a journey through Cartier’s history and its iconic jewelry.

This catalog is not a nostalgic journey through the past; rather, it seeks to highlight the way in which Cartier’s heritage serves as an inspiration to new generations of designers across the world, and how those repertoires take on a new spirit upon being reinvented by a new generation responsible for continuing, developing, renewing, and keeping alive the fashion house’s great legacy.

Five thematic units — The Early Days and the Birth of a Style, Universal Curiosity, Jeanne Toussaint’s Taste, Wearing Beauty and Measuring Time, and María Félix and Icons of Elegance — present close to 180 pieces from the Cartier Collection as well as institutional and private collections. In this way, the exhibition catalog allows us to understand the house’s history, and the development of its unique language and style, its savoir faire, and the evolution thereof.

About the Author:

Ana Elena Mallet is a Mexican curator and author. She has also served as consultant, adviser, deputy director, and head of preservation in some of the most important cultural spaces in the country. Michel Aliaga is Director of Transmission of Cartier History and Heritage. Eugenio López Alonso is President of Fundación Jumex Arte Contemporáneo. Pierre Rainero is Director of Image, Style and Heritage, Cartier. Cyrille Vigneron is President and CEO, Cartier SA.