Книги по ювелирному искусству

Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art.

From Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller’s preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th-century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the ’60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art.

Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces’ creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre’s evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors.

This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike. Contents: Introduction What is Art as Jewellery Foreword Artists (more than 50 are covered, including Alexander Calder, Salvador Dalì, Man ray, Pablo Picasso, Louise Nevelson, Max Ernst and Corneille) Exhibitions

_Includes an introduction by Vivienne Becker, an award-winning jewellery writer, and a contribution from Julia Peyton Jones, previous director of the Serpentine Gallery, London
_A marvellous array of images, from archived photographs and sketches that have not been seen since the '60s, and the work of 20th-century photographers such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, to modern shoots by Alexander English

With lip art worthy of a museum, this collection showcases the magic Vlada Haggerty creates with lipstick.

From opulent to optical illusion, Haggerty’s art is a blend of makeup and magic that transforms her lips into canvases. Makeup artist royalty, her work is washed across the Internet, lips dripping and bedazzled, transformed by talent and a vision that’s helped shape the beauty industry.

Featuring over 200 photographs of Haggerty’s work, Art of the Lip is a sumptuous tome to flip through and marvel at the minute-painted details on her lips in each photo. Gloss, lipstick, sequins, and jewels transform Haggerty’s skin in hundreds of different images, with looks inspired by nature, jewelry, pop culture, and more.

Much more than just lipstick, Haggerty’s art is a showcase of makeup’s power and an artist’s innovation.

About the Author:

Vlada Haggerty is a Ukrainian cosmetic artist based in Los Angeles. She works as a makeup artist, beauty and cosmetic photographer, and lip artist. Her makeup and photography have been featured in publications internationally, including Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine, Harper’s Bazaar Kazakhstan, Vogue México, Vogue India, Cosmopolitan, Refinery29, Make-Up Artist Magazine, and many, many more. She has worked with Smashbox Cosmetics as their Lip Editor in Chief and her worked has inspired makeup artists everywhere.

Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique — these great designers came together only once to display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition ever mounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting his jewelry and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European culture.

The array of displayed objects was mesmerizing: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism, and symbolism, and of styles from around the world.

Four essays discuss the works in the context of their times, illuminate the high societies served by the three masters, and trace the cultural trends behind their extraordinary creations. A treasure of accompanying photographs shows the individual exhibits, scenes from the World's Fair, and the glitterati who wore the jewelry. 

About the Authors:

Stephen Harrison is curator of decorative arts at the Cleveland Museum of Art. 
Emmanuel Ducamp has written and lectured widely on Russian and French decorative arts. 
Jeannine Falino is an independent curator, formerly the Carolyn and Peter Lynch Curator of Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Jewelry, long associated with luxury, is also becoming a medium for social responsibility and ethical values. Kyle Roderick, an authority on ethical jewelry, profiles fifteen designers who are at the forefront of refashioning the medium for today's consumers.

In the wake of Charles Leavitt's insightful 2006 movie Blood Diamond, which told how conflict diamonds fund civil wars, the buying and wearing of ethically sourced and sustainably mined jewelry has become a priority in today's luxury market. Bejeweled is the first book to cover this timely subject. Profiling leading international designers who are at the forefront of the ethical jewelry movement, this beautifully photographed publication examines how an ancient art is powering a green revolution in chic jewelry for everyone.

Included are renowned designers such as Pippa Small, an early user of fair-mined gold, who employs local artisans to fabricate her one-of-a-kind pieces; Dewey Nelson, a Native American Hopi who incorporates 1,000-year-old tribal motifs in his reclaimed-silver pieces; and Loren Nicole, whose jewelry features intricate hand-carved gemstones and 22-karat gold alloyed in the same formula used by ancient Roman goldsmiths. Illustrated with exquisite photographs of individual pieces, featured both alone and on celebrities, who are turning the red carpet "green" by wearing ethically sourced jewelry, Bejeweled is for all gemstone and design fans.

About the Author:

Journalist Kyle Roderick is the founder and editor in chief of BIJOUXreview. She covers design-driven jewelry and timepieces for Forbes and other publications.

_____________

Пролистать книгу Bejeweled: The World of Ethical Jewelry

A lavish monograph on the esteemed Spanish jewelry designer, whose work celebrates nature, geometry and the cosmos, on the occasion of her fiftieth anniversary.

Called the “queen of plique-à-jour,” after the historic and rarified enameling technique, Luz Camino has been in a continuous conversation with the world around her through her art; everything from birds, flowers, and shapes to rubber bands and even pencil shavings have been her muse. This first monograph on her work featuring more than two hundred fifty of her creations, many of which have never before been seen outside of private collections. This book beautifully showcases the sophistication, innovation, and creativity of one of the most adept jewelers working today.

About the Author:

Luz Camino is the first female master jeweler in Spain. She has spent the past fifty years mastering contemporary and antique jewelry techniques, developing an expansive collection of unique pieces with a wide range of inspirations and typologies. Her work is in the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Museum of Arts and Design in New York. Clare Phillips is the Elisabeth Gage Curator of Jewellery from the Department of Decorative Art and Sculpture at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Carolina Herrera is an American fashion designer who launched her eponymous label in 1981. Her awards include the 2004 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award and their Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2008.

An engaging overview of the changing styles and uses of brooches and badges from the Middle Ages to today

From medieval pilgrim badges and Renaissance hat decorations to jewelled brooches and twentieth-century political pins, brooches and badges are often more than practical or decorative dress fasteners; they are expressions of identity. Focusing on the V&A’s world-famous collection, Brooches and Badges explores the evolution of these intricate and versatile works of art, and the way in which changes in dress have dictated their use.

Contents List:

Introduction • 1. ‘Send…letters, tokens, brooches, and ranges’ 1000–1500 • 2. ‘Rich Apparell, precious Jewells’ 1500–1800 • 3. ‘Any number of brooches, up and down and everywhere’ 1800–1900 • 4. ‘The new jewel has been born’ 1900–1920 • 5. ‘Clips are going like wildfire’ 1920–1940 • 6. ‘Almost anything goes’ 1940–1960 • 7. ‘Precious stones have won their freedom’ 1960-1990 • 8. ‘The shock of beauty’ 1990–The Present • References; Glossary; Further Reading; Notes; Major Collections Featuring Brooches and Badges Acknowledgments; Author’s Biography; Index

About the Author:

Rachel Church is a Curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum with a special responsibility for the rings collection. She has published and lectured on jewelry and worked on the re-display of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery. She has contributed to a number of V&A publications, including writing on gold boxes in The Gilbert Collection at the V&A (2009).

A "cool" guide to Rome, with an emotional tour of the city's key historical sites and monuments revisited through the inspiration behind Bvlgari's jewelry.

Since 1884, the majestic beauty of the Eternal City and its rich archaeological, artistic, and cultural heritage have represented an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Bvlgari. Yesterday as today, Rome's monuments and artistic details are gracefully evoked in the brand's jewelry creations. For example, the design of the iconic B-zero1 ring was inspired by the Colosseum, the ultimate symbol of the city, and likewise the recurrent octagonal geometries watch dial refers to the coffered ceiling of the Basilica of Maxentius.

This handy, pocket-sized volume takes us on an unprecedented historical, artistic, and emotional tour of the city. In addition to an actual guide to the monuments, the narration is enriched by short stories by some of the best-known Roman authors from the world of contemporary Italian literature, inspired by the most iconic locations in the city.

The book is further enhanced by contributions from figures linked to the city by birth or by adoption, including renowned names from fashion, cinema, sport, and music.

The Bvlgari jewelry and the places in Rome that inspired it are photographed in stunning images with artistic direction by Jan Králícek.

About the Author:

Jan Králícek studied cultural anthropology and media at Charles University in Prague. He is now creative director of Vogue Czechoslovakia and fashion editor-at-large for VoguePortugal and GQ Portugal. Costantino D'Orazio is an art historian and curator. He was resident curator at MACRO (Contemporary Art Museum of Rome) from 2014-2019, and is curator of public art projects in Villa Borghese Park, Rome. He collaborates with LUISS University and Link Campus and is the author of a number of books dedicated to Rome and italian art.

With an encyclopedic spirit and characteristic flair for color, Bvlgari reconstructs the myth of Eden in a dream of fine jewelry that becomes a manifesto.

Every year, Bvlgari launches a high jewelry collection. The most recent theme is the Garden of Eden, a subject that celebrates nature as a limitless source of inspiration, vitality, and energy — reflected in the wonderful craftsmanship of a Roman brand famous for its colored gems and refined and skillful design.

This extraordinary illustrated book contains exclusive sketches and photographs of the jewelry from the new collection, and artistic references to the iconographic themes of nature and the garden with creative images by contemporary photographers. Poetry on the same topic from various eras and originating from all over the world — from Verlaine to Vita Sackville-West and Emily Dickinson, Federico García Lorca to Khwāju Kermani — also accompanies the images.

In photography by the Korean master Cho Gi-Seok, the unique pieces of the Eden The Garden of Wonders collection, featuring emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and spinals in every color, flourishes in a magical and luxuriant world, a triumph of plants, flowers, and thriving nature.

About the Author:

Simone Marchetti is director of Vanity Fair Italia, where he oversees the European editions of Vanity Fair in France, Spain, and Italy. As a fashion journalist he stands out for his prose, insight, and street style. Lucia Silvestri is the jewelry creative director at Bvlgari. She began her career in the Bvlgari gemological department at the age of eighteen, and the Bvlgari brothers quickly intuited her great potential. Cho Gi-Seok is a fashion and art photographer who was born in Seoul, South Korea, and has his own fashion brand, KUSIKOHC.

This stunning volume accompanies a major exhibition surveying the history behind the iconic jewelry company. Over 350 jewels are paired with haute couture from eminent fashion houses.

This sumptuous book celebrates not just the evolution of Bvlgari's style through more than one hundred years, but also its ability to inspire the modern woman through the ages. Jewels from Bvlgari's heritage collection are matched with one hundred haute couture garments of the same time period from the most illustrious fashion houses, including Chanel, Dior, Prada, Versace, Fendi, Pucci, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and more.

The volume also includes exclusive essays by industry experts and noted historians that explore the history of the Bulgari family starting with the founder, Sotirio Bulgari, who immigrated to Italy from the Balkans in the late nineteenth century. The family's close relationships with members of the international elite are also examined. Many of the world's most famous women have been Bvlgari clients, including Ingrid Bergman, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, and Anita Ekberg. Pieces once owned by Elizabeth Taylor are included in the book, and many of the jewels featured have never been previously exhibited.

About the Author:

Lucia Boscaini is the brand and heritage curator for the Bvlgari Marketing Department, where she is in charge of the company's historical assets and works to publicize the 130-year-old brand.
Chiara Ottaviano is the head of Cliomedia Officina, a pioneering Italian company in the field of public history.

___________

Пролистать книгу Bulgari: The Story, The Dream

A sumptuous exploration of the influence of the Islamic arts on Cartier’s jewelry, published to accompany a major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris

Cartier and Islamic Art traces the glorious ways Islamic art has inspired Maison Cartier from the early 20th century to today, showing how its geometric patterns and opulent colour palette augured the birth of a decidedly modern aesthetic. Masterpieces of Islamic art, including works brought together from Louis Cartier’s extraordinary personal collection, as well as archival drawings, books and photographs, sit alongside dazzling period photographs of Cartier jewelry, while in-depth texts by distinguished scholars of both Islamic art and architecture as well as the decorative arts illuminate and celebrate the beauty of Islamic art and the astonishing creative genius of Maison Cartier.

Accompanies the exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, from 21 October 2021 to 20 February 2022.

Contents List:

Forewords by Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet and Pierre Rainero

CATALOGUE

Cartier – The Story
Pascale Lepeu

A Journey into the Cartier Archives
Violette Petit

The “Revelation” of Islamic Arts: a Path to Modernity?
Judith Henon-Raynaud and Évelyne Possémé

Exquisite Manuscripts and Inlaid Objects: Reconstructing Louis Cartier’s Collection of Islamic Art
Judith Henon-Raynaud

Cartier and India: a Source of Formal and Technical Renewal
Évelyne Possémé

Cartier’s lexicon of forms: Abstractions, the ‘Arab’ Style, and the ‘Persian’ Style
Heather Ecker

An Exploration of Islamic Aesthetic Influence on Cartier’s Graphics, 1909-1940
Sarah Schleuning

APPENDIX

Check list of exhibited works
(with illustrations)

Comprehensive list of Louis Cartier’s collection (with illustrations)

About the Authors:

Heather Ecker is Marguerite S. Hoffman and Thomas W. Lentz Curator of Islamic and Medieval Art at Dallas Museum of Art. Judith Henon-Renaud is Deputy Director of the Department of Islamic Arts at the Louvre. Pascale Lepeu is curator of the Cartier Collection. Violette Petit is head of the Cartier Paris Archives. Évelyne Possémé is Chief Curator, Art Nouveau-Art Deco and Antique and Modern Jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Sarah Schleuning is Interim Chief Curator and The Margot B. Perot Senior Curator of Decorative Arts and Design at Dallas Museum of Art.

List of Contributors:

Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet, Pierre Rainero

This is a journey through Cartier’s history and its iconic jewelry.

This catalog is not a nostalgic journey through the past; rather, it seeks to highlight the way in which Cartier’s heritage serves as an inspiration to new generations of designers across the world, and how those repertoires take on a new spirit upon being reinvented by a new generation responsible for continuing, developing, renewing, and keeping alive the fashion house’s great legacy.

Five thematic units — The Early Days and the Birth of a Style, Universal Curiosity, Jeanne Toussaint’s Taste, Wearing Beauty and Measuring Time, and María Félix and Icons of Elegance — present close to 180 pieces from the Cartier Collection as well as institutional and private collections. In this way, the exhibition catalog allows us to understand the house’s history, and the development of its unique language and style, its savoir faire, and the evolution thereof.

About the Author:

Ana Elena Mallet is a Mexican curator and author. She has also served as consultant, adviser, deputy director, and head of preservation in some of the most important cultural spaces in the country. Michel Aliaga is Director of Transmission of Cartier History and Heritage. Eugenio López Alonso is President of Fundación Jumex Arte Contemporáneo. Pierre Rainero is Director of Image, Style and Heritage, Cartier. Cyrille Vigneron is President and CEO, Cartier SA.

This refined volume documents the new collection of high jewelry from Cartier.

Through Le Voyage Recommencé, its latest collection of high jewelry and precious objects, Cartier pays tribute to the richness of its style. Embarking readers on a prodigious journey, the jewelry showcased in this book explores the Maison’s iconic fields of expression: essential lines, geometry, colors, flora and fauna, and influences from world cultures, to name but a few. The renowned jeweler continually pushes the boundaries of creation to discover new horizons.

Accompanied by text focusing on the concept of style in the arts, the pieces presented in this richly illustrated volume take us on a renewed journey ― a voyage recommencé ― into the heart of the Cartier style, where creative imagination and superlative savoir faire transform precious stones and materials into magnificent jewelry.

About the Authors:

Francois Chaille is passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry, and watchmaking. He has collaborated with Flammarion to publish over fifteen books on these subjects.

Hélène Kelmachter is an art historian and has curated exhibitions on contemporary art and on artistic professions. She has been a cultural attaché for the French Embassy in Tokyo and Buenos Aires, and, since February 2020, at the French Embassy in Italy.

True to the Cartier brothers' passion for the earth and its natural beauties, the newest collection of high jewelry brings the wonders of nature and cultural splendors from all four corners of the globe into dialogue. Sublimated by the interplay of stones and drawings, the inspirations give rise to highly stylized, even abstract compositions of a new genre. A coral reef entwines the length of a flamboyant necklace, an iguana skin transforms into a geometric matrix, and a Chinese puzzle box reveals a kaleidoscopic ring. Natural treasures and the fruits of human creativity meet in the purity of original compositions, revealing the unique dimensions of a multifaceted world that showcases all the richness of the nature and the Cartier universe.

About the Authors:

Francois Chaille is passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry, and watchmaking. He has collaborated with Flammarion to publish over fifteen books on these subjects.
Alberto Cavalli is Executive Co-Director of the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship and the Director General of the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte. A professor at Milan’s university Politecnico, he writes regularly about the arts for several international reviews.

_______

Пролистать книгу Cartier: Beautés du Monde: High Jewelry and Precious Objects

A spectacular anniversary publication to celebrate ninety years since the launch of Chanel’s first fine jewelry collection in 1932

‘I used my penchant for all that shines to try and reconcile elegance and fashion in a set of jewelry’ Gabrielle Chanel

From Gabrielle Chanel’s 1932 collection to the newest interpretations of her signature signs and symbols by Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, CHANEL High Jewelry remains eternally modern and true to the spirit of her enterprise.

Breathtaking new photography and classic images from the CHANEL archives brings together revealing combinations in a stunning visual narrative, privileging aesthetic form over four chapters: the origins, the symbols, the spirit, and the allure. Gabrielle Chanel’s passion for fabulous and improbable marvels is celebrated here in a covetable book object that pays tribute to the House’s unparalleled insistence on luxury and refinement, creativity and beauty.

Based on extensive research and exploring CHANEL’s inspirations and art through some of the most precious of all her creations and the eternally modern ideas they have inspired, the book features superb photographs by Karl Lagerfeld, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, François Kollar, Roger Schall, George Hoyningen-Huene, André Kertész, Sarah Moon, Koto Bolofo, Karim Sadli, Dominique Issermann, and many others. It is also illustrated with images from CHANEL’s archive and sketches that express the creativity and joie de vivre of the world’s finest High Jewelry collection.

About the Author:

Julie Levoyer is a Paris-based writer and editor.

The best of the tiaras created by Parisian high-jewelry house Chaumet, presented in a luxurious slipcased package

Founded in 1780 in Paris, the Maison Chaumet became the most prestigious and sought-after jeweller in Europe under the patronage of the Empress Joséphine, wife of Napoléon. For nearly 250 years, Chaumet has specialized in tiaras of dazzling craftsmanship for powerful women including royalty, heiresses, celebrities, artists and modern businesswomen.

The spectacular and rarely seen tiaras in this book are presented thematically: Nature, Sky, Freeforms and Power, accompanied by essays from V&A jewellery curator Clare Phillips and fashion journalist Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni. Featuring more than 200 illustrations, including specially commissioned photographs, this is a stunning tribute to an enduring symbol of feminine majesty.

Contents List:

Chaumet: An Exquisite Legacy, by Clare Phillips • The Tiara: Power, Fashion and Magic by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni • Nature • Sky • Freeforms • Power • Timeline • Endmatter

About the Authors:

Clare Phillips is a curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Her publications include Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present and Jewels and Jewelry.
Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni is the author of numerous books, including Vogue on Yves Saint Laurent and After Andy: Adventures in Warhol Land. She was the European editor for Harper’s Bazaar from 1999 to 2004.