Книги по ювелирному искусству

Jewelry, long associated with luxury, is also becoming a medium for social responsibility and ethical values. Kyle Roderick, an authority on ethical jewelry, profiles fifteen designers who are at the forefront of refashioning the medium for today's consumers.

In the wake of Charles Leavitt's insightful 2006 movie Blood Diamond, which told how conflict diamonds fund civil wars, the buying and wearing of ethically sourced and sustainably mined jewelry has become a priority in today's luxury market. Bejeweled is the first book to cover this timely subject. Profiling leading international designers who are at the forefront of the ethical jewelry movement, this beautifully photographed publication examines how an ancient art is powering a green revolution in chic jewelry for everyone.

Included are renowned designers such as Pippa Small, an early user of fair-mined gold, who employs local artisans to fabricate her one-of-a-kind pieces; Dewey Nelson, a Native American Hopi who incorporates 1,000-year-old tribal motifs in his reclaimed-silver pieces; and Loren Nicole, whose jewelry features intricate hand-carved gemstones and 22-karat gold alloyed in the same formula used by ancient Roman goldsmiths. Illustrated with exquisite photographs of individual pieces, featured both alone and on celebrities, who are turning the red carpet "green" by wearing ethically sourced jewelry, Bejeweled is for all gemstone and design fans.

About the Author:

Journalist Kyle Roderick is the founder and editor in chief of BIJOUXreview. She covers design-driven jewelry and timepieces for Forbes and other publications.

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Пролистать книгу Bejeweled: The World of Ethical Jewelry

A celebration of the rich and varied work of Italian-born American artist, designer, and master of metal, Harry Bertoia

From chapel altarpieces and bronze fountains, to wire chairs and silver brooches, Harry Bertoia's creative output was varied in the extreme. This new book explores his entire career: his move from Italy to Detroit at 15; his formative years at Cranbrook; his work with Charles Eames and Knoll; through to his fascinating sound sculptures.

In doing so, the book demonstrates how seemingly disparate works are in fact united in being reflections of nature, and places Bertoia's art squarely at the heart of American modernism.

About the Author:

Beverly H. Twitchell has a PhD in art history and has taught at various universities for 35 years. She first met Bertoia in 1973 and shared a close friendship with him until he died in 1978. As the only art historian who knew and worked with Bertoia in his last years, interviewing him at length, Twitchell is uniquely placed to offer real insight into Bertoia's work and world.

A lavish monograph on the esteemed Spanish jewelry designer, whose work celebrates nature, geometry and the cosmos, on the occasion of her fiftieth anniversary.

Called the “queen of plique-à-jour,” after the historic and rarified enameling technique, Luz Camino has been in a continuous conversation with the world around her through her art; everything from birds, flowers, and shapes to rubber bands and even pencil shavings have been her muse. This first monograph on her work featuring more than two hundred fifty of her creations, many of which have never before been seen outside of private collections. This book beautifully showcases the sophistication, innovation, and creativity of one of the most adept jewelers working today.

About the Author:

Luz Camino is the first female master jeweler in Spain. She has spent the past fifty years mastering contemporary and antique jewelry techniques, developing an expansive collection of unique pieces with a wide range of inspirations and typologies. Her work is in the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Museum of Arts and Design in New York. Clare Phillips is the Elisabeth Gage Curator of Jewellery from the Department of Decorative Art and Sculpture at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Carolina Herrera is an American fashion designer who launched her eponymous label in 1981. Her awards include the 2004 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award and their Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2008.

An engaging overview of the changing styles and uses of brooches and badges from the Middle Ages to today

From medieval pilgrim badges and Renaissance hat decorations to jewelled brooches and twentieth-century political pins, brooches and badges are often more than practical or decorative dress fasteners; they are expressions of identity. Focusing on the V&A’s world-famous collection, Brooches and Badges explores the evolution of these intricate and versatile works of art, and the way in which changes in dress have dictated their use.

Contents List:

Introduction • 1. ‘Send…letters, tokens, brooches, and ranges’ 1000–1500 • 2. ‘Rich Apparell, precious Jewells’ 1500–1800 • 3. ‘Any number of brooches, up and down and everywhere’ 1800–1900 • 4. ‘The new jewel has been born’ 1900–1920 • 5. ‘Clips are going like wildfire’ 1920–1940 • 6. ‘Almost anything goes’ 1940–1960 • 7. ‘Precious stones have won their freedom’ 1960-1990 • 8. ‘The shock of beauty’ 1990–The Present • References; Glossary; Further Reading; Notes; Major Collections Featuring Brooches and Badges Acknowledgments; Author’s Biography; Index

About the Author:

Rachel Church is a Curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum with a special responsibility for the rings collection. She has published and lectured on jewelry and worked on the re-display of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery. She has contributed to a number of V&A publications, including writing on gold boxes in The Gilbert Collection at the V&A (2009).

A "cool" guide to Rome, with an emotional tour of the city's key historical sites and monuments revisited through the inspiration behind Bvlgari's jewelry.

Since 1884, the majestic beauty of the Eternal City and its rich archaeological, artistic, and cultural heritage have represented an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Bvlgari. Yesterday as today, Rome's monuments and artistic details are gracefully evoked in the brand's jewelry creations. For example, the design of the iconic B-zero1 ring was inspired by the Colosseum, the ultimate symbol of the city, and likewise the recurrent octagonal geometries watch dial refers to the coffered ceiling of the Basilica of Maxentius.

This handy, pocket-sized volume takes us on an unprecedented historical, artistic, and emotional tour of the city. In addition to an actual guide to the monuments, the narration is enriched by short stories by some of the best-known Roman authors from the world of contemporary Italian literature, inspired by the most iconic locations in the city.

The book is further enhanced by contributions from figures linked to the city by birth or by adoption, including renowned names from fashion, cinema, sport, and music.

The Bvlgari jewelry and the places in Rome that inspired it are photographed in stunning images with artistic direction by Jan Králícek.

About the Author:

Jan Králícek studied cultural anthropology and media at Charles University in Prague. He is now creative director of Vogue Czechoslovakia and fashion editor-at-large for VoguePortugal and GQ Portugal. Costantino D'Orazio is an art historian and curator. He was resident curator at MACRO (Contemporary Art Museum of Rome) from 2014-2019, and is curator of public art projects in Villa Borghese Park, Rome. He collaborates with LUISS University and Link Campus and is the author of a number of books dedicated to Rome and italian art.

A sumptuous exploration of the influence of the Islamic arts on Cartier’s jewelry, published to accompany a major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris

Cartier and Islamic Art traces the glorious ways Islamic art has inspired Maison Cartier from the early 20th century to today, showing how its geometric patterns and opulent colour palette augured the birth of a decidedly modern aesthetic. Masterpieces of Islamic art, including works brought together from Louis Cartier’s extraordinary personal collection, as well as archival drawings, books and photographs, sit alongside dazzling period photographs of Cartier jewelry, while in-depth texts by distinguished scholars of both Islamic art and architecture as well as the decorative arts illuminate and celebrate the beauty of Islamic art and the astonishing creative genius of Maison Cartier.

Accompanies the exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, from 21 October 2021 to 20 February 2022.

Contents List:

Forewords by Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet and Pierre Rainero

CATALOGUE

Cartier – The Story
Pascale Lepeu

A Journey into the Cartier Archives
Violette Petit

The “Revelation” of Islamic Arts: a Path to Modernity?
Judith Henon-Raynaud and Évelyne Possémé

Exquisite Manuscripts and Inlaid Objects: Reconstructing Louis Cartier’s Collection of Islamic Art
Judith Henon-Raynaud

Cartier and India: a Source of Formal and Technical Renewal
Évelyne Possémé

Cartier’s lexicon of forms: Abstractions, the ‘Arab’ Style, and the ‘Persian’ Style
Heather Ecker

An Exploration of Islamic Aesthetic Influence on Cartier’s Graphics, 1909-1940
Sarah Schleuning

APPENDIX

Check list of exhibited works
(with illustrations)

Comprehensive list of Louis Cartier’s collection (with illustrations)

About the Authors:

Heather Ecker is Marguerite S. Hoffman and Thomas W. Lentz Curator of Islamic and Medieval Art at Dallas Museum of Art. Judith Henon-Renaud is Deputy Director of the Department of Islamic Arts at the Louvre. Pascale Lepeu is curator of the Cartier Collection. Violette Petit is head of the Cartier Paris Archives. Évelyne Possémé is Chief Curator, Art Nouveau-Art Deco and Antique and Modern Jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Sarah Schleuning is Interim Chief Curator and The Margot B. Perot Senior Curator of Decorative Arts and Design at Dallas Museum of Art.

List of Contributors:

Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet, Pierre Rainero

This refined volume documents the new collection of high jewelry from Cartier.

Through Le Voyage Recommencé, its latest collection of high jewelry and precious objects, Cartier pays tribute to the richness of its style. Embarking readers on a prodigious journey, the jewelry showcased in this book explores the Maison’s iconic fields of expression: essential lines, geometry, colors, flora and fauna, and influences from world cultures, to name but a few. The renowned jeweler continually pushes the boundaries of creation to discover new horizons.

Accompanied by text focusing on the concept of style in the arts, the pieces presented in this richly illustrated volume take us on a renewed journey ― a voyage recommencé ― into the heart of the Cartier style, where creative imagination and superlative savoir faire transform precious stones and materials into magnificent jewelry.

About the Authors:

Francois Chaille is passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry, and watchmaking. He has collaborated with Flammarion to publish over fifteen books on these subjects.

Hélène Kelmachter is an art historian and has curated exhibitions on contemporary art and on artistic professions. She has been a cultural attaché for the French Embassy in Tokyo and Buenos Aires, and, since February 2020, at the French Embassy in Italy.

True to the Cartier brothers' passion for the earth and its natural beauties, the newest collection of high jewelry brings the wonders of nature and cultural splendors from all four corners of the globe into dialogue. Sublimated by the interplay of stones and drawings, the inspirations give rise to highly stylized, even abstract compositions of a new genre. A coral reef entwines the length of a flamboyant necklace, an iguana skin transforms into a geometric matrix, and a Chinese puzzle box reveals a kaleidoscopic ring. Natural treasures and the fruits of human creativity meet in the purity of original compositions, revealing the unique dimensions of a multifaceted world that showcases all the richness of the nature and the Cartier universe.

About the Authors:

Francois Chaille is passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry, and watchmaking. He has collaborated with Flammarion to publish over fifteen books on these subjects.
Alberto Cavalli is Executive Co-Director of the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship and the Director General of the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte. A professor at Milan’s university Politecnico, he writes regularly about the arts for several international reviews.

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Пролистать книгу Cartier: Beautés du Monde: High Jewelry and Precious Objects

The best of the tiaras created by Parisian high-jewelry house Chaumet, presented in a luxurious slipcased package

Founded in 1780 in Paris, the Maison Chaumet became the most prestigious and sought-after jeweller in Europe under the patronage of the Empress Joséphine, wife of Napoléon. For nearly 250 years, Chaumet has specialized in tiaras of dazzling craftsmanship for powerful women including royalty, heiresses, celebrities, artists and modern businesswomen.

The spectacular and rarely seen tiaras in this book are presented thematically: Nature, Sky, Freeforms and Power, accompanied by essays from V&A jewellery curator Clare Phillips and fashion journalist Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni. Featuring more than 200 illustrations, including specially commissioned photographs, this is a stunning tribute to an enduring symbol of feminine majesty.

Contents List:

Chaumet: An Exquisite Legacy, by Clare Phillips • The Tiara: Power, Fashion and Magic by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni • Nature • Sky • Freeforms • Power • Timeline • Endmatter

About the Authors:

Clare Phillips is a curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Her publications include Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present and Jewels and Jewelry.
Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni is the author of numerous books, including Vogue on Yves Saint Laurent and After Andy: Adventures in Warhol Land. She was the European editor for Harper’s Bazaar from 1999 to 2004.

For centuries, the stories of the world’s great jewellery collections have lain hidden within the archives of Christie’s, the celebrated auctioneers. From the tragic European queens, Mary, Queen of Scots and Marie Antoinette – both beheaded – to Hollywood royalty such as Elizabeth Taylor, the vaults sparkle with the most celebrated (and occasionally notorious) names of the last 250 years. Following on from the success of his books on Boucheron: The Secret Archives, Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends and Mellerio: Jewellers to the Queens of Europe, author Vincent Meylan explores these remarkable jewellery archives, revealing the mysteries within for the first time.

Each sale had its intrigue, each its story to tell. The first auction of jewellery from the British royal family took place at Christie’s in 1773, after the death of the Princess of Wales, mother of George III. As the archives reveal, in the subsequent centuries, Christie’s has been party to the sale of jewellery by several further generations of British royals, from Lady Patricia Ramsay and the Countess of Southesk through to Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon. And, in the wake of revolution and regicide further afield, the crown jewels of France, Russia, Bavaria, Serbia, Egypt, India and Spain were all sold at Christie’s. Aside from Elizabeth Taylor, the legendary movie star collections of Merle Oberon and Gloria Swanson are also revealed here, as well as the most famous pearls and diamonds in the world; each explored within the context of their owners’ remarkable lives.

Expertly curating the extensive archives, Vincent Meylan has drawn out the key details of each momentous sale. Original documents from the vaults are reproduced in the book, alongside hundreds of colour illustrations of the jewels and their owners.

About the Author:

Vincent Meylan is a specialist in precious stones and high jewellery, and the author of several biographies and works on the history of precious stones, including Queens' Jewels (Assouline, 2005), Boucheron: The Secret Archives ISBN 9781851496679 (ACC, 2011), and of Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends ISBN 9781851497706 (ACC, 2014).

Unlock the power of love through crystals with this all-inclusive volume on crystal rituals and techniques. Find your perfect partner, improve your current relationships and even boost your sex life with the help of Crystals & Love.

Featuring sections on every aspect of love and relationships, this book will help solve or improve any major love issues.

Crystals & Love also has sections on how to create loving and positive environments, which not only improve personal bonds and outlook but will alter your relations with the world at large.

About the Author:

Judy Hall was an internationally known author, astrologer, crystal expert, psychic and healer. A leading authority on spiritual development, Judy had more than 45 years of experience in karmic astrology, crystal healing and past-life therapy. She was the author of over 45 books and her writing has been translated into 16 languages.

A lavishly illustrated, in-depth early history covering two thousand years of diamond jewellery and commerce, from the Indian mines to European merchants, courts, and workshops

This richly illustrated history of diamonds illuminates myriad facets of the “king of gems,” including a cast of larger-than-life characters such as Alexander the Great, the Mughal emperor Jahangir, and East India Company adventurers. It’s an in-depth study tracing the story of diamonds from their early mining and trade more than two thousand years ago to the 1700s when Brazil displaced India as the world’s primary diamond supplier.

Jack Ogden, a historian and gemologist specializing in ancient gems and jewellery, describes the early history of diamond jewellery, the development of diamond cutting, and how diamonds were assessed and valued. The book includes more than one hundred captivating images, from close-up full-colour photographs of historic diamond-set jewellery (some previously unpublished) to photomicrographs of individual gems and illustrations of medieval manuscripts, as well as diagrams depicting historical methods of cutting and polishing diamonds.

About the Author:

Jack Ogden is a historian specializing in gems and jewellery. He has a Ph.D. from Durham University and is an elected Fellow of both the Society of Antiquaries and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

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Пролистать книгу Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems

A lavish celebration of twenty years of Dior Joaillerie showcasing the breathtaking creations of creative director Victoire de Castellane through an extravagant illustrated dictionary.

As creative director of Dior Joaillerie since its beginnings in 1998, Victoire de Castellane is renowned for her fearless approach to jewellery. Crossing the boundary between natural and artificial, her fantastical jewels are inspired by global pop culture, Christian Dior's life and work, and the floral world and embody a timeless, poetic style.

To fête twenty years of Victoire de Castellane's designs, this luxurious volume presents a dictionary of eighteen chapters, each introduced by a dazzling drop cap ornate with an original collage of drawings. From the first collections to the acclaimed Le Bal des Roses pieces and the celebrated floral gardens of Belladone Island, Dior Joaillerie's history is explored from its debut and up to the latest collection, Gem Dior, presented in Venice in June 2019 and exclusively shot for this publication. More than 300 images by renowned photographers such as Guido Mocafico and Erwan Frottin illustrate this original alphabetical journey. Through the dictionary entries penned by Olivier Gabet, director of the Musée des Arts décoratifs, readers uncover nonlinear, playful insights into the fascinating world of one of the world's foremost jewellery designers. Printed in Italy and with creative direction by Thomas Lenthal, this exquisite piece of bookmaking is a stunning homage to Victoire de Castellane's artistry and imagination.

About the Authors:

Victoire de Castellane has been the creative director of Dior Joaillerie since 1998. Olivier Gabet is the director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (MAD) in Paris.

The first book celebrating Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria, a kaleidoscope of creativity in which formal invention is accompanied by rediscovery of historical Italian craftsmanship.

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria (High Jewelry) inaugurated its first collection in Taormina in 2012. Ten years after that memorable date, the fashion house has decided to celebrate this precious universe of art, beauty, and knowledge in a book for the first time.

The creations of Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria have always been unique pieces. While the exceptional quality of gems and diamonds is certified by the most renowned international gemological institutes, the goldsmithery — which is carried out entirely by hand in the brand’s workshops by skilled goldsmiths — reinterprets highly refined processes, such as milgrain, filigree, and twisted wire.

It embodies an extraordinary heritage of tradition and know-how, forging material to transform it into a work of art. Miniatures, enamels, corals, and marvelous gems from the most important deposits in the world and magnificent diamonds, some of which are characterized by the unprecedented Dolce & Gabbana cut, are the absolute stars of this volume. Edited by Carol Woolton, it reveals the unique creations of Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria to the general public for the first time.

About the Author:

Carol Woolton is a global industry leader in the luxury sector, a contributing editor at British Vogue, and host of the podcast If Jewels Could Talk. As a jewelry historian, she has curated exhibitions internationally. 

Fabergé: Treasures of Imperial Russia. Fabergé Museum, St. Petersburg is a lavish volume on the most complete Fabergé collection in the world, with many pieces rarely seen before, from the famous imperial Easter eggs to precious jewelry, enamels, and Russian silver, showcased in the sumptuous Shuvalov Palace in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Jeweler and goldsmith Carl Fabergé and his firm are renowned for creating the most superbly refined objects of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries for the nobility and aristocracy of imperial Russia. Exquisite examples of the jeweler’s art, Fabergé’s magnificent Easter eggs, commissioned for the Romanov Imperial family, and other impeccably crafted objects continue to be prized the world over for their incredible craftsmanship and unparalleled beauty.

Now, the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg has gathered the most spectacular and comprehensive treasury of Fabergé objects. This book showcases a wealth of precious objects — from the imperial eggs, delicate jeweled enamel clocks, and picture frames to animals carved out of hardstone and gem-encrusted jewelry and presentation boxes.

With all-new photography of the collection — more than 500 priceless objects in all — alongside stunning images of the majestic Shuvalov Palace, this luxurious volume is a celebration of the exquisite beauty and craftsmanship of prerevolutionary Russia and its heritage.

About the Author:

Written by internationally known authors and leading experts: Géza von Habsburg, Tatiana Muntian, Valentin Skurlov, Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm, Kieran McCarthy, Mark Schaffer, Irina Buseva-Davydova, Alexander von Solodkoff, and Ekaterina Khmelnitskaya.