On January 21, 1971, couturier Yves Saint Laurent presented his Spring-Summer haute couture collection. Inspired by the garments of the war years, the collection included short dresses, platform shoes, square shoulders, and exaggerated makeup. The show caused an outrage among the public, the critics, and the press alike, earning it the title of “Paris’s ugliest collection.” Nevertheless, the haute couture designs of the runway made their way to the boulevards, giving full sway to the “retro” trend that quickly conquered the streets.

Yves Saint Laurent: The Scandal Collection, 1971 offers a behind-the-scenes look at the influential collection that “drew fire in the fashion world” — from the collection’s inspiration to the press coverage that followed. Beautifully illustrated and documented with well-researched essays, this book is enriched with personal interviews and archival photographs of the show, the models, the designs, and the textile and print samples, as well as sketches and international press clippings.

About the Authors:

Olivier Saillard is the director of the Palais Galliera, Museum of Fashion, and the curator of the Yves Saint Laurent 1971: The Scandal Collection exhibition.
Dominique Veillon is a historian.

The marriage between flowers and fashion has never been more pronounced than when seen in the work of Yves Saint Laurent. This retrospective examines Yves Saint Laurent’s use of flowers from their symbolism to their fruition on the runway.

Flowers in every form inspired fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, serving as a leitmotif in his work. His passion for plants manifested itself in countless patterns and techniques, and he adorned women in floral appliqués, prints, and embroideries. From a thousand and one rose buds to sprigs of lily of the valley, from an avalanche of bougainvillea to delicate poppy touches, and from sheaves of wheat to majestic lilies, nature was an essential part of his visual palette.

Through the discerning eyes of Olivier Saillard, this veritable garden of Yves Saint Laurent’s designs — culled from a broad range of styles — metamorphoses into a bouquet of flowering silhouettes. Under the direction of Elsa Janssen and Alexis Sornin, essays from Emanuele Coccia, Marc Jeanson, and Serena Bucalo Mussely explore, respectively, the symbolism of flowers, characteristics of his recurring prints, and the designer’s signature use of flora in accessories.

About the Authors:

Olivier Saillard, director of the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa and former director of the Palais Galliera, is a fashion historian, curator, and author.
Emanuele Coccia, philosopher, university lecturer, and author of The Life of Plants, specializes in the relationship between visual theory and the nature of life.
Botanist Marc Jeanson is former director of the museum of natural history in Paris and former botany director of the Majorelle Garden in Marrakesh.
Serena Bucalo Mussely, chief curator and art historian, is head of collections at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris.

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Пролистать книгу The Flowers of Yves Saint Laurent

Influenced by her love for Parisian style, romanticism, and rock and roll, Martine Sitbon continues to be a major force in fashion.

This is her long-overdue first book. Will appeal to Sitbon's many fans as well as buyers of Chloe (where Sitbon was head designer) and Carine Roitfeld.

The definitive book on the career of fashion designer Martine Sitbon.

About the Author:

Martine Sitbon is a French fashion designer. She served as head designer for Chloé for nine seasons, and founded the eponymous label "Martine Sitbon" (later named "Rue du Mail"). Marc Ascoli is a designer known for his work with Versace, Chloé, Yohji Yamamoto, and Jil Sander.

The first book on the highly influential French fashion designer renowned for her rock’ n’ romantic style and for reinvigorating the house of Chloé.

Martine Sitbon has become an icon among designers and fashionistas, earning her praise from Karl Lagerfeld as being "the only living French designer." Handpicked to breathe new life into Chloé in the mid-1980s, and the first woman to be named designer at the house, while simultaneously working on her own ready-to-wear label, Sitbon has been at the helm of high fashion for decades. Martine Sitbon, sumptuously designed by longtime collaborator Marc Ascoli, deftly illustrates the looks that have built Sitbon’s reputation — including her separates, draped and tucked organza minis, smart trenches, and sexy rocker-girl pieces — and shows how her style has made her not only a woman’s designer, but a designer’s designer, having spent years mentoring such respected tastemakers as Phoebe Philo and Isabel Marant. With never-before-seen sketches and photographs, this book allows readers to gain a better understanding of the designer’s personal universe and inspirations that have until now been largely hidden from view.

About the Author:

Martine Sitbon is a French fashion designer. She served as head designer for Chloé for nine seasons, and founded the eponymous label Martine Sitbon (later named Rue du Mail). Marc Ascoli is the art director responsible for the image branding of Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, and Chloé, among others. Olivier Saillard is the director of the Palais Galliera, City of Paris Museum of Fashion. He is a renowned fashion historian and author. Fabrice Paineau is the publications director of Double Magazine. Jerry Stafford is a writer and creative director of Premiere Heure, an advertising and feature film production company based in Paris.

Unveiling Azzedine Alaïa’s story before his milestone 1982 show, this book offers a never-before-seen look into one of fashion’s most enigmatic icons.

Azzedine Alaïa (1935–2017) was regarded as a contemporary fashion genius. Edited by his closest friend, Carla Sozzani, this new volume presents an unprecedented view into Alaïa’s early life and career, from his native Tunisia and 1956 arrival in Paris to his breakthrough 1982 New York show.

From apprenticeships to encounters with Paris’s creative and society crowds, this book pays homage to Alaïa’s evolution. Chronological chapters depict a designer devoted to his work while enjoying friendships with such individuals as Arletty, Louise de Vilmorin, César, Andrée Putman, and Thierry Mugler. Quotes by Alaïa accompany gorgeous photographs of iconic dresses and lesser-known designs, providing captivating stories behind the inspirations for his creations. Interviews share intimate anecdotes from Serge Lutens, Edgar Morin, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Marie Rucki, and more. Accompanying an exhibition at the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation, this unique publication delves into rare archival materials, private photographs, and prominent publications to powerfully illustrate the fascinating journey of a fashion legend.

About the Author:

Carla Sozzani cofounded the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation and is its president. Laurence Benaïm is the author of Women in Dior: Portraits of Elegance and Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography. She created the style supplement for Le Monde and has contributed to Vogue and Marie Claire. Emanuele Coccia is an Italian philosopher and associate professor at EHESS in Paris. Olivier Saillard is a French historian specializing in fashion and director of the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation.

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Пролистать книгу Alaïa Afore Alaïa

Richard Avedon’s most indelible images of Dior fashions and portraits from the 1940s through the ’70s, including many never-before-published photographs. Richard Avedon’s iconic fashion work not only changed fashion photography but also changed the way the world looks at fashion. One of his most prolific collaborations was with the house of Dior, which can be traced back to 1947, just after the haute couture house had taken the Paris fashion world by storm.

This lavish volume includes 150 iconic and many never-before-published photographs by Avedon, featuring glamorous models and celebrities, including Marlene Dietrich, Suzy Parker, Sunny Hartnett, Dovima, Carmen Dell’Orefice, Dorian Leigh, Capucine, Lauren Hutton, Anjelica Huston, and Barbra Streisand. Avedon’s images document Dior’s fashion, as well as fashion history from the 1940s through the ’70s. With an eye for moments of grace, drama, and humor, as well as a mastery of light and contrast, Avedon captures the essence of Dior’s elegant designs, the style and personality of the iconic women who wore them, and incredible moments in photography that will intrigue photography, art, and fashion lovers alike.

About the Author:

Jacqueline de Ribes is a French socialite and fashion designer. In addition to being a muse to many designers, including Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent, she has been a member of the International Best Dressed List since 1962. Justine Picardie is an accomplished author and editor-in-chief of British Harper’s Bazaar. Olivier Saillard is director of the Palais Galliera, the City of Paris’s Museum of Fashion. He is a renowned fashion historian and author.

Cristobal Balenciaga's black couture dresses, capes, and coats delighted the society of his day as they changed the future of fashion. Here, lush new photography paired with archival images and sketches will delight readers in revealing the subtle tones and extraordinary detailing of the couturier's masterpieces in black.

Balenciaga in Black explores the creative genius of Cristóbal Balenciaga, "the couturier's couturier" -- the fashion designer revered by all other fashion designers. Black served as inspiration and guiding principal for the legendary dressmaker and provided a rich canvas for this extraordinary technician, allowing him to develop new textures and innovative shapes. To Balenciaga black was a vibrant material, alternately opaque or transparent, matte or shining, combined in sumptuous fabrics and undergirding the apparent simplicity of his cuts.

Pierre Even's photography of Balenciaga's masterworks, produced specifically for this catalog, capture these subtle gradations in tone and lush details with contemporary precision. Fifty pieces from the Galliera Collection and the Balenciaga archives, including daywear, cocktail dresses or evening ensembles, lined in silk taffeta, fringed with satin ribbons, jet pearls, sequins, are revealed as never before. These contemporary photographs are presented alongside historical portfolios by legendary fashion photographers Richard Avedon, Henry Clarke, and Irving Penn to form three distinct sections: Balenciaga's volumes, interplay of black and light, and combinations of black with subtle colors. Balenciaga's specific materials and shapes are further illuminated by texts, sketches, and detailed captions.

About the Author:

Olivier Saillard is one of fashion's premier historians and curators. He has curated some of the most innovative and exclusive fashion exhibitions at the Musée de la Mode in Paris and Marseille, the Musée Bordelle and the Victoria & Albert museum in London.
Pierre Even, a French photographer trained at the National School of Photography in Arles, quickly became known for his black and white portraits. In 2014, he published Eden (Editions Kehrer), whose photographs were also the subject of an exhibition at the Consortium in Dijon (October 2014-January 2015).

Longtime creative collaborators Tilda Swinton and Olivier Saillard present an illustrated tribute to the costumes of legendary Italian director Pier Paolo Pasolini’s iconic films.

Retracing Pier Paolo Pasolini’s entire cinematography — which continues to fascinate audiences almost half a century after his passing — Embodying Pasolini explores the costumes that brought his films to life. From The Gospel According to St. Matthew (1964), The Canterbury Tales (1972), and Arabian Nights (1974) to Salò, or the 120 Days of Sodom (1975), Pasolini’s movies are known for their provocative flair — making them staples of art cinema’s golden age. Styled by Danilo Donati, the costumes — garments, coats, and hats — enlivened the films with their rich textures, volume, color, and embellishments. 

This exquisite volume documents the eponymous performance that took place in Rome on July 25, 2021, in Solomeo on April 30, 2022, and which will be presented in Paris on December 3 through 10, 2022. Conceived by Olivier Saillard and poetically interpreted by Tilda Swinton, the sold-out event — an ephemeral artwork in itself — showcased thirty of the most influential costumes of Pasolini’s films. With fascinating texts by Swinton, Saillard, and Clara Tosi Pamphili and evocative photographs by Ruediger Glatz, this publication — part art object, part catalog — is an extraordinary tribute to cinematic fashion and the sole record of the critically acclaimed production.

About the Authors:

Tilda Swinton is a performer and filmmaker. She has appeared in such critically acclaimed films as Orlando, I Am Love, and The Grand Budapest Hotel.  Olivier Saillard is a French Fashion historian, poet, and performer.  Clara Tosi Pamphili is an Italian fashion historian and the curator of Romaison. Ruediger Glatz is a German artist whose work combines classic documentary photography, video, mixed media, and installation.

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Пролистать книгу Embodying Pasolini

A breathtaking survey of 20 years of fashion designs by Martin Margiela

Timed to coincide with a major exhibition, this volume revisits the years during which celebrated designer Martin Margiela achieved the status as one of the most important designers at work today. One of the "Antwerp group of six" who changed the face of contemporary fashion, Margiela created 41 runway shows between 1989 and 2009 which promoted a unique vision of understated luxury -- monochromes, oversize volumes, and his signature "constructed-deconstructed" cuts - whose credo is comfort, timelessness, sensuality, and authenticity.

Famously reclusive, Margiela never showed his face even at his own shows in order that the work could stand purely on its own, free from any link to celebrity or self-promotion. This volume chronicles these amazing fashion shows in careful detail: the extraordinary spaces, the music, the designer's intentions, the iconic pieces. Over the years, recurring motifs and inspirations become more apparent including anonymity, whiteness, past and anteriority, diversion. The book reveals the sensitive, poetic and incredibly innovative universe of this most influential contemporary fashion designer.

About the Authors:

Alexandre Samson is a curator and manages the Palais Galliera contemporary collections. 

Olivier Saillard is a noted fashion historian and author and was the director of the Palais Galliera from 2010 until 2017. He is currently artistic director of J.M. Weston, a men's luxury shoe brand.

A comprehensive history of high fashion in Paris from Madame Grès and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent and Yohji Yamamoto, spanning all aspects from clothing and accessories to perfume.

Ever since Charles Frederick Worth dressed the Empress Eugénie in the 1860s, launching a golden century of dressmaking, Parisian haute couture has been a source of endless admiration and fascination. Its emphasis on exquisite design and meticulous craftsmanship has put it at the forefront of the fashion industry, in terms of its influence and its indisputable sublimation of fashion to an art form.

The relevance and practices of haute couture may have evolved over time, but the work of many contemporary couturiers reveals a strong sense of continuity with the achievements of their predecessors, from the creations of Paul Poiret, Jeanne Lanvin, and Christian Dior, through to their modern counterparts in Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, or Viktor & Rolf.

This chronological study traces the history of the esteemed couture houses of Paris, examining the role of the designer and the extraordinary craftsmanship behind the finished creations, the importance of haute couture in Parisian culture, and its influence in the wider international fashion industry. Particular attention is paid to the relationship between haute couture and the client, as well as the dualities present in modern haute couture sense of exclusivity and quasi-mythical aura countered by an ever-increasing reach into popular consciousness and attainability, through perfumes, branding, and the media spectacle of fashion shows.

This volume is richly illustrated with images of the most superb pieces created by truly exceptional designers. Various incarnations of Chanel's timeless, classic quilted handbag, Fath's charmingly-patterned silk scarves, and Poirot's elegant perfume bottles demonstrate that haute couture encompasses far more than just clothing. From the delicate embroidery on a Worth garment to the graceful silhouette of Dior's ballgowns, to the sculptural creations of Madame Grès and their modern echoes in the work of Yohji Yamamoto, Parisian haute couture is a constantly evolving art.

Fascinating archival photographs invite the reader through the doors of these exclusive Paris establishments into the showrooms and ateliers of the master couturiers, allowing us to glimpse the alluring, refined, and rarely-seen world that is Parisian haute couture.

About the Author:

Anne Zazzo is an art historian and curator at the Musée Galliera in Paris. She has published several works on fashion, including Chantelle (Assouline, 2010) and a book in French on the history of undergarments.

Published in conjunction with an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Dé coratifs in Paris, this handsome volume presents fashions by noted designer Sonia Rykiel who celebrated her 40th anniversary in fashion in October 2008 and was famously anointed the fashion world's “Queen of knitwear” by Women's Wear Daily

This sumptuous book is a celebration of the iconic designer's lifetime in fashion. Included are photographs from 80 seasonal collections spanning 40 years and interlaced with remarkable personal anecdotes and reminiscences alongside candid photos of the designer by acclaimed photographers Dominique Issermann and Sarah Moon. Also included are images from the official campaigns that originally appeared in such leading fashion publications as Vogure, Elle, Marie-Claire, and many others.

Though designing since 1962, Sonia Rykiel achieved instant acclaim when she founded her own label in 1968. She is celebrated for creating several transformative decorative features that transformed knitwear into fashion. These include inside-out stitching, no-hem and “unlined” pieces, bold stripes, lace, rhinestones and sweaters with written messages. She is also known for several signature looks including long clinging sweaters, small cropped pullovers, large rolled-back cuffs, and long shawls usually in a spectrum of key colours (beige, grey, dark blue and charcoal). These looks all reflected her philosophy of la dé mode, or “un-fashion” which abolished total-look diktats in favour of a wardrobe adapted to expressing a woman's individual personality.

Lacroix is one of the most inventive and admired fashion designers in the world. He is also incredibly well-versed in fashion history, and he brings that expertise to bear in this delightful imaginary museum of historic and contemporary fashion.

‘I chose those that were most inspiring, those that best told the story of fashion that I would have wanted to tell if I were the museum curator that I intended to be when I was a student.’ – Christian Lacroix

Each featured piece – whether from costume collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs or the House of Lacroix – is distinguished by its cut, its detail, its colour and its texture,
and the pieces are juxtaposed and photographed in a way that emphasizes their relationships across the centuries.