Книги з ювелірного мистецтва

Now available again in a new edition, this opulent book reaches back 25,000 years to trace the history of jewelry from the Paleolithic era to the present day

Drawn from the extensive holdings of the Staatliche Museen in Berlin, this collection of jewelry through the ages links cultures and eras to show how the design, wearing, and collecting of personal adornment has evolved over the ages. They range from classic items such as necklaces, rings and earrings to less common items with origins in non-European cultures. The book features jewelry, ranging from the splendid crowns of ancient Greece, gold earrings from Babylon and jewelled collars worn by 13th-century Islamic royalty to more modern pieces such as those contained in the imperial collection of Queen Louise of Prussia, Art Nouveau jewelry designed by Rene Lalique, and work by contemporary designers. This chronologically arranged survey includes numerous brief essays and 400 illustrations with detailed captions, making it an ideal reference for anyone interested in cultural history, the history of jewelry, or the art and craft of jewelry making.

About the Author:

Maren Eichhorn-Johannsen is deputy head of the department of Exhibitions and Special Events at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Adelheid Rasche is head of the collection of Textiles, Clothing and Jewellery at the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg.

High jewellery has entered the 21st century with a spring in its step. Design has been as diverse as it has been innovative. The technical advances of the ’90s and the new materials being used by this exuberant group of independent jewellers have helped pave the way to breaking down preconceived ideas of high jewellery. Some enjoy the adventure of finding the rarest of gemstones that speak to them, others seek to tell a tale or relay a secret message to the wearer and thus the onlooker. They are artists, engineers and adventurers; and, above all, they are passionate about their world, using only the best workmanship wherever it is to be found.

From the great JAR, to James de Givenchy and Nicholas Varney in the West, and Michelle Ong, Wallace Chan and Bhagat in the East, 21st-Century Jewellery Designers: An Inspired Style is an exploration into the designers’ worlds. Interviews reveal the designers’ inspirations and passions, their signature materials, designing processes, and how their personalities influence their designs.

Designers featured: JAR (France); Kaoru Kay Akihara / Gimel (Japan); Walid Akkad (France/Lebanon); Lorenz Bäumer (France); Bhagat (India); Sevan Biçakçi (Turkey); Luz Camino (Spain); Wallace Chan (China); Edmond Chin / Etcetera (China); Lydia Courteille (France); Michele della Valle (Italy/Switzerland); Patrice Fabre (France); James de Givenchy / Taffin (USA); Vicente Gracia (Spain); Hemmerle (Germany); Anna Hu (USA/Taiwan); Michelle Ong / Carnet (China); Suzanne Syz (Switzerland); Nicholas Varney (USA); Stephen Webster (UK); Dickson Yewn / Yewn Heritage (China).

- An exploration of the passions and inspirations that have ignited the creation of sumptuous jewels with a definitively contemporary touch
- Presents the stories and designs of leading contemporary jewellery designers working across the globe - France, the USA, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Japan, the UK, Spain, Italy, China, Turkey, Lebanon, Taiwan, India, Germany
- Each entry is accompanied by beautiful colour photographs of the designer's pieces
- Includes a chapter on the new rising stars in the industry

About the Author:

Jewellery expert Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld comes from a family steeped in the rich history of jewellery; in 1869, her great-grandfather, Thomas Weir founded the jewellers Weir & Sons in Dublin, which is still run by members of the family. A Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem A), Juliet began her career at the auction house, Sotheby’s & Co., London. Currently based in France, she now focuses on writing jewellery books, her other titles include Women Jewellery Designers and Lydia Courteille.

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This comprehensive reference book on jewellery spanning thousands of years also includes a panoramic illustrated history explores the varied styles, techniques and materials used to make jewellery throughout the world since earliest times. Egyptian necklaces, Celtic torcs, South American gold masks, Renaissance pendants and Art Nouveau buckles are among the range of masterpieces described by a team of experts from the British Museum and illustrated with 400 superb photographs. This reissue includes images of major acquisitions made in the last ten years, particularly from Europe since 1700 and from Asia.

A beautiful and sumptuously illustrated book that presents the highlights of Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild’s Renaissance court treasures.

This book explores the Waddesdon Bequest, the name given to the Kunstkamer, or cabinet collection of Renaissance treasures which was bequeathed to the British Museum by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild MP in 1898.

The Bequest is named after Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire, a fairy-tale French chateau built by Baron Ferdinand from 1874-83, where the collection was housed during his lifetime.

It was understood at the time that a collection of this quality could never be formed again, given the rarity and expense of the pieces, and the problems of faking and forgery of just this kind of material.

This book will unlock the history and romance of this glorious collection through its exploration of some of its greatest treasures and the stories they tell. It will introduce makers and patrons, virtuoso craftsmanship, faking and the history of collecting from the late medieval to modern periods, as told through the objects. Scholarly catalogues have appeared for parts of this splendid collection, but this book will open up the Bequest for the general reader.

By looking at individual objects in detail, and drawing on new photography and research, the book will enable readers to see and understand the objects in a completely different light.

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This book presents and explores the Waddesdon Bequest, the name given to the Kunstkammer or cabinet collection of Renaissance treasures which was bequeathed to the British Museum by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild, MP in 1898. The Bequest is named after Waddesdon Manor in Buckinghamshire, a fairy tale French chateau built by Baron Ferdinand from 1874 – 83, where the collection was housed during his lifetime. As a major Jewish banking family, the Rothschilds were the greatest collectors of the nineteenth century, seeking not only the finest craftsmanship in their treasures, but also demonstrating great discernment and a keen sense of historical importance in selecting them. Baron Ferdinand’s aim, often working in rivalry with his cousins, was to possess a special room filled with splendid, precious and intricate objects in the tradition of European courts of the Renaissance and Baroque periods. It was understood at the time that a collection of this quality could never be formed again, given the rarity and expense of the pieces, and the problems of faking and forgery of just this kind of material.

The book will unlock the history and romance of this glorious collection through its exploration of some of its greatest treasures and the stories they tell. It will introduce makers and patrons, virtuoso craftsmanship, faking and the history of collecting from the late medieval to modern periods, as told through the objects. Treasures discussed will include masterpieces of goldsmiths’ work in silver; jewellery; hardstones and engraved rock crystal; astonishing microcarvings in boxwood, painted enamel, ceramic and glass; arms and armour and ‘curosities’: exotic treasures incorporating ostrich eggs, Seychelles nut, amber or nautilus shell. Scholarly catalogues have appeared for parts of this splendid collection but this book will open up the Bequest for the general reader. By looking at individual objects in detail, and drawing on new photography and research, the book will enable readers to see and understand the objects in a completely different light.

About the Author:

Dora Thornton is Curator of Renaissance Europe and Curator of the Waddesdon Bequest at the British Museum. She curated the new permanent gallery, funded by the Rothschild Foundation, for the Waddesdon Bequest, a Rothschild Kunstkammer in the British Museum. Her most recent book, A Rothschild Renaissance, was published to accompany the gallery opening in June 2015.

This comprehensive overview, organized by material and period, allows the reader to distinguish, appraise, and date French jewelry from 1800‒1950.

This highly accessible guide offers a detailed panorama charting the evolution of French jewelry created between the Consulate period in the 1800s through to the 1950s. Iconic examples include Onyx cameos, “dormeuses” earrings in rose gold, an Art Deco solitaire, a sapphire “you and me” ring, a diamond “shaker” brooch, and an emerald “negligee” necklace.

Entries are organized by period, and include primary sources of inspiration and characteristics, designers, materials, gemstones, and types of jewelry. Completed with an overview of the key design houses and artists who have left their mark on the jewelry industry since 1800, along with detailed advice for buying and maintaining pieces, this practical reference — richly illustrated with photographs and archival documents — provides everything you need to know to appreciate antique jewelry in all its facets.

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This indispensable reference to antique French jewelry gives amateur and professional jewelry enthusiasts the knowledge and confidence to:
• recognize and date a piece of antique jewelry
• identify the principal gemstones
• distinguish the major French jewelry designers
• buy and sell antique pieces
• have works appraised

Charting the evolution of French jewelry created between the Consulate period (established by general Napoleon Bonaparte on the cusp of the nineteenth century) and the 1950s, this practical guide defines each era by identifying its hallmark trends, materials, gemstones, main types of jewelry, and historic jewelry houses. Richly illustrated with photographs, drawings, and archival documents, and featuring iconic designs such as the “tank” bracelet, “you-and-me” ring, “négligé” pendant, and Zip necklace, this essential book covers antique French jewelry in all of its scintillating facets.

About the Author:

Victoire de Castellane is artistic director of Dior Jewelry. Geoffray Riondet runs the Riondet design house, and is an antique jewelry specialist, legal expert, and gemologist. Riondet drew upon the expertise of Valérie Goupil, Anne Laurent, Loïc Lescuyer, Gérard Panczer, and Brigitte Serre-Bourt, professors at the French National Institute of Gemology (ING, Paris-Lyon).

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The very first, beautifully illustrated guide to some of the most sought-after portable Art Deco design

In the 1920s and ’30s Art Deco-influenced everything from art and architecture, interiors and furnishings, automobiles and boats, to the small personal objects that are part of everyday life. The items in this thematically structured book demonstrate Deco style at its most alluring. They were then the height of fashion, and are highly prized collectibles today. They demonstrate an era of close cooperation between designers and manufacturers, who aimed to produce goods that were not only fit for purpose but also well made and beautiful.

This informative showcase of portable classics of avant-garde modern design from Britain, Europe (particularly France) and the United States will appeal both to collectors and to anyone with an interest in Deco style and the history of fashion, taste and design. It is the first book to bring together the small collectibles – from cigarette cases and lighters to powder compacts and cosmetics accessories, watches, jewellery, even cameras – that demonstrate the style, glamour and sophistication of the Jazz Age.

With an encyclopedic spirit and its characteristic flair for precious stones, Bvlgari reconstructs the aeternal history and fascination of Rome and the creative act in a dream in a new High Jewelry collection.

Every year Bvlgari launches a High Jewelry collection of 150 one-of-a-kind pieces. The new collection is named Aeterna and celebrates Bvlgari's ability to continuously reinvent itself, drawing inspiration from its heritage, embracing the contemporary, and envisioning the future. This pioneering spirit constantly forges new visions in the world of jewelry, continuously experimenting with materials, aesthetics, and craftsmanship.

The majesty and grandeur of the Eternal City have always served as a profound source of inspiration, and this time the radiant morning light of Rome lays the groundwork for capturing the spark of imagination. In that magical moment, the beauties of the city unveil themselves in a new perspective.

Crafted by nature over the course of millennia, Bvlgari's precious gems capture fragments of eternity, magnifying the richness of cultural diversity by combining elements, colors, materials, and shapes. Bvlgari's innovative and ever-evolving creativity reflects its commitment to venturing into uncharted territories. The experimentation never stops tracing new paths and pushing new boundaries of creation. The new one-of-a-kind High Jewelry collection pieces are presented in this book combined with the historical pieces of Bvlgari Heritage collection.

About the Authors:

Salvatore Settis is an Italian archaeologist and art historian, and he has been director of the Getty Center and of the Scuola Normale Superiore in Pisa. Lucia Silvestri is the jewelry creative director at Bvlgari. She began her career in the Bvlgari gemological department at the early age of eighteen, and the Bvlgari brothers quickly intuited her great potential. Gislain Aucremanne is Heritage curator at Bvlgari. Aliza S. Wong is a professor of History and dean of the Honors College at Texas Tech University, in 2022 she was appointed Director of the American Academy in Rome. Ersilia Vaudo holds a degree in astrophysics and has been working at the European Space Agency since 1991. Julia Watson is a designer, academic and a leading expert of Lo—TEK nature-based technologies for climate-resilience.

With unparalleled access to the Bulgari archives, Meylan guides us on an intimate journey through the lives of the clients, both famous and infamous, who have given this pre-eminent Mediterranean jeweller their patronage.With unparalleled access to the Bulgari archives, Meylan guides us on an intimate journey through the lives of the clients, both famous and infamous, who have given this pre-eminent Mediterranean jeweler their patronage.

A jewel is more than an arrangement of precious stones - it is a story. This is the principle on which Vincent Meylan, author of Christie's: The Jewellery Archives Revealed, Boucheron: The Secret Archives, Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends, and Mellerio: Jewellers to the Queens of Europe, has written his latest book. Now, with unparalleled access to the Bulgari archives, Meylan guides us on an intimate journey through the lives of the clients, both famous and infamous, who have given this pre-eminent Mediterranean jeweller their patronage.

Paris may be the traditional home of the jeweller elite, but Bulgari embraces its Roman origins. From their early creations, inspired by Byzantine and Islamic architecture, to designs like the Trombino ring and Serpenti bracelets, which are still relevant today, Bulgari gracefully navigates the line between contemporary and timeless.

Their client roster reflects their prestige. Nobility and celebrity intermingle; the Countess di Frasso shopped at Bulgari with her Hollywood superstar-beau, Gary Cooper, as did the Infanta Beatriz of Spain and Princess Maria José of Belgium. Richard Burton wooed Elizabeth Taylor with glittering Bulgari jewels, while the decadent marriage of Tyrone Power and Linda Christian featured Bulgari wedding rings. But these jewels tell tales of many genres, not just romance: from exiled Iranian Shahs to Count Cini of Monselice, held for ransom by the SS and released in exchange for Bulgari jewels.

Each story is retold with Vincent Meylan's characteristic verve, embellished with original pictures from the archives. Chapters are dedicated to wealthy customers, but also to the stones themselves, tracing the evolution of this iconic Roman company through history, and the development of their jewellery from mine, to workshop, to model.

About the Author:

Vincent Meylan writes the history and royalty pages for the French women's weekly Point de Vue. He is also a specialist in precious stones and in haute joaillerie, and the author of several biographies and works on the history of precious stones, including Queens' Jewels (Assouline, 2005), Boucheron: The Secret Archives (ACC, 2011), Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends (ACC, 2014) and Christie's: The Jewellery Archives Revealed (ACC 2016).

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A spectacular anniversary publication to celebrate ninety years since the launch of Chanel’s first fine jewelry collection in 1932

‘I used my penchant for all that shines to try and reconcile elegance and fashion in a set of jewelry’ Gabrielle Chanel

From Gabrielle Chanel’s 1932 collection to the newest interpretations of her signature signs and symbols by Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, CHANEL High Jewelry remains eternally modern and true to the spirit of her enterprise.

Breathtaking new photography and classic images from the CHANEL archives brings together revealing combinations in a stunning visual narrative, privileging aesthetic form over four chapters: the origins, the symbols, the spirit, and the allure. Gabrielle Chanel’s passion for fabulous and improbable marvels is celebrated here in a covetable book object that pays tribute to the House’s unparalleled insistence on luxury and refinement, creativity and beauty.

Based on extensive research and exploring CHANEL’s inspirations and art through some of the most precious of all her creations and the eternally modern ideas they have inspired, the book features superb photographs by Karl Lagerfeld, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, François Kollar, Roger Schall, George Hoyningen-Huene, André Kertész, Sarah Moon, Koto Bolofo, Karim Sadli, Dominique Issermann, and many others. It is also illustrated with images from CHANEL’s archive and sketches that express the creativity and joie de vivre of the world’s finest High Jewelry collection.

About the Author:

Julie Levoyer is a Paris-based writer and editor.

Discover the dazzling treasures of one of the world’s most prominent jewelry collectors, hailed by Forbes as “the man with the most valuable jewelry collection you never knew existed.”

This volume illuminates the vision of Kazumi Arikawa, a Japanese collector and the founder and president of Albion Art. Throughout his career, he has pursued the world’s most dazzling gems, acquiring rare pieces from all eras with incomparable artistic and historical value, including an important number of royal jewels from across Europe and the largest collection of historical tiaras.

For Kazumi Arikawa, who spent several years as a Buddhist monk, jewelry art is a spiritual journey — an exaltation of emotions and a celebration of universal beauty, which he has made his mission to spread across the world through publications and exhibitions. In Japanese culture, this veneration of beauty is closely linked to the purity of the soul.

Featuring a catalog of works curated by acclaimed jewelry historian Diana Scarisbrick, as well as all-new photography by Nils Herrmann, this volume presents for the first time 250 treasured pieces that have passed through the skilled hands of this unique collector, including a selection of masterpieces now held in the Qatar Museums collections.

About the Authors:

Kazumi Arikawa is the founder and president of Albion Art. Diana Scarisbrick is an art historian specializing in glyptics and jewelry. She has curated major exhibitions on jewelry history, including Tiara (Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 2000), and is the renowned author of numerous books on jewelry and art. Nils Herrmann is a German photographer specializing in fine jewelry and design.

Following the success of The Empire of Death, which has attracted a global cult following, Heavenly Bodies brings the 'catacomb saints' out of the darkness for the first time

In 1578 a labyrinth of underground burials was discovered in Rome that contained the remains of thousands of individuals assumed to be early Christian martyrs. The bones were disinterred and sent to many Catholic churches and religious houses in German-speaking Europe to replace holy relics that had been destroyed during the Protestant Reformation.

Reassembled by skilled artisans, encrusted with gold and jewels and richly dressed in fantastic costumes, the skeletons were displayed in elaborate public shrines as reminders of the spiritual treasures that awaited the faithful after death. For nearly three centuries these ‘Heavenly Bodies’ were venerated as miracle-workers and protectors of their communities until doubts about their authenticity surfaced in the modern era. They then became a source of embarrassment for the Church and most were destroyed or hidden away.

The book includes arresting images of more than seventy spectacular jeweled skeletons and the fascinating stories of dozens more, accompanied by rare archive material. This is the first time that some of these incredible relics – both intriguing historical artifacts and masterpieces of artistic craftsmanship in their own right – have appeared in a publication, with Koudounaris gaining unprecedented access to photograph in some of the most secretive religious establishments in Europe.

Meticulously researched and beautifully written, this is a tour de force of original cultural history with deepest resonances for a modern audience fascinated by visual representations of death.

About the Author:

Paul Koudounaris lives in Los Angeles, where he took his doctorate in the art history department of UCLA. His first book, The Empire of Death: A Cultural History of Ossuaries and Charnel Houses, was published by Thames & Hudson in 2011.

Celebrates the work of one of the most prestigious names in haute couture jewelry of the last sixty years

Since Robert Goossens met Mademoiselle Chanel in the 1950s, Goossens has become one of the most revered names in haute couture jewelry. Inspired by baroque and Byzantine art, the Goossens family has created fine jewelry for the world’s greatest couture houses. Robert Goossens worked with Coco Chanel in the 1950s, and went on to design jewelry for the world’s foremost fashion houses, creating notable collaborations with Balenciaga, Grès and Yves Saint Laurent.

As well as the emblematic rock crystal jewelry, baroque pearl brooches and Byzantine cuffs famously associated with Chanel, Maison Goossens’ designs combine real and faux gemstones, making fashion jewelry at once bold and precious.

Robert’s son, Patrick, has reimagined many original Goossens styles, for Dior, Alexander McQueen and Louis Vuitton among others. Martine, his daughter, collaborates regularly with architect Peter Marino to decorate the interiors of the most famous couture houses in the world. Maison Goossens is now part of the stable of exceptional craft practitioners owned by Chanel’s Paraffection subsidiary.

Contents List:

I Creation II Transformation III Transmission

About the Author:

Patrick Mauriès is a writer and publisher of many notable titles on fashion and design, including Jewelry by Chanel and Flora: The Art of Jewelry, both published by Thames & Hudson.

Combines tutorials, inspirational galleries, extensive cross-referencing and advice in metal jewelry-making

With its comprehensive combination of tutorials, inspirational galleries, extensive cross-referencing and advice, Metalsmithing for Jewelry Makers is an authoritative reference that is guaranteed to appeal to professionals and amateurs alike.

Thanks to the popularity of workshops and classes, metal jewelry-making is no longer the exclusive realm of professional jewelry designers. Now, with a little patience and the right instruction – and this book – anyone can learn to create beautiful jewelry with metalsmithing techniques.

This book is one of the most comprehensive volumes on metal jewelry-making available. Freshly commissioned, full-colour photographs accompany detailed step-by-step tutorials, while comprehensive sidebars detail the relevant considerations for applying each technique to a variety of different metals, with cross-references where applicable.

The book also includes profiles of contemporary practitioners, providing readers with an understanding of a wide range of different working methods, materials and developing techniques.

About the Author:

Jinks McGrath is a designer and jewelry maker living in East Sussex, UK. Her work has been inspired by a number of visits to India, Thailand, and Africa where she has watched and worked alongside local craftspeople. Jinks trained at the Berkshire College of Art and Design and is the author of several books including The Encyclopedia of Jewelry Making Techniques and Jewelry Making: A Complete Course for Beginners.

This is the first book devoted exclusively to rings considered by theme rather than by date – though the author, a world expert, brings her rich historical and literary knowledge to the subject.

She considers …

Signets
Rings associated with love, marriage and friendship
Devotional, protective and ecclesiastical rings
Memento mori and memorial rings
Rings associated with famous people and great events
Decorative rings
Diamond rings
Rings as accessories

while making us delight in them as works of art, and bringing their context alive through paintings, drawings, and vivid quotations.

Rings of all periods are included – from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome through the Middle Ages and Renaissance up to the 20th century. The rings are drawn not only from great museums but from private collections, preeminently that of the noted gem dealer and art patron Benjamin Zucker.

About the Author:

Diana Scarisbrick has written extensively on jewellery, in books, exhibition catalogues and journals internationally. Rings have always been a particular interest.

Celebrates the most remarkable assemblage of jewellery in the world still used in royal ceremony in a tradition going back over a millennium

This sumptuous volume, which includes a complete inventory of every item of the Crown Jewels in the Tower of London, captures the magnificence of a collection of symbolic objects steeped in English history that is still in use today. For anyone with either a professional or a personal interest in jewellery and history, The Crown Jewels will be a delight.

The Crown Jewels tells the history of the spectacular, priceless objects now in the Tower of London. Their story is that of the English monarchy itself – from the 12th-century spoon used for the anointing at the coronation to the platinum crown created for Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother in 1937, set with the Koh-i-nûr diamond.

Published in association with the Royal Collection and Historic Royal Palaces, the book features specially commissioned new photography, including many detailed shots, allowing individual pieces, the famous gems and carefully selected groups of objects to be viewed as never before.

The text, recounts the development of the collection in the medieval period, the dramatic sale and melting down of almost every piece after the execution of Charles I in 1649 and the remaking of the Crown Jewels for Charles II in 1660. Since then the collection has been augmented with pieces that reflect key moments in English history, such as the regalia created for the only joint monarchs, William III and Mary II, in 1689, and the crown made for King George V’s inauguration as Emperor of India in 1911.

Contents List:

1. Origins; 2. The Age of Magnificence; 3. Meltdown; 4. Monarchy Remade; 5. Splendours of the Table; 6. Crowns for Queens; 7. Fathers and Sons; 8. Economy and Empire; 9. The New Ceremonialism; 10.The Modern Age; Glossary; Bibliography;

About the Author:

Anna Keay is Curatorial Director of English Heritage, and was formerly Assistant Curator of Historic Royal Palaces. She has provided historical commentary for broadcasts on royal events such as HM The Queen’s Golden Jubilee and the State Opening of Parliament.