Книги по ювелирному искусству

With an encyclopedic spirit and its characteristic flair for precious stones, Bvlgari reconstructs the aeternal history and fascination of Rome and the creative act in a dream in a new High Jewelry collection.

Every year Bvlgari launches a High Jewelry collection of 150 one-of-a-kind pieces. The new collection is named Aeterna and celebrates Bvlgari's ability to continuously reinvent itself, drawing inspiration from its heritage, embracing the contemporary, and envisioning the future. This pioneering spirit constantly forges new visions in the world of jewelry, continuously experimenting with materials, aesthetics, and craftsmanship.

The majesty and grandeur of the Eternal City have always served as a profound source of inspiration, and this time the radiant morning light of Rome lays the groundwork for capturing the spark of imagination. In that magical moment, the beauties of the city unveil themselves in a new perspective.

Crafted by nature over the course of millennia, Bvlgari's precious gems capture fragments of eternity, magnifying the richness of cultural diversity by combining elements, colors, materials, and shapes. Bvlgari's innovative and ever-evolving creativity reflects its commitment to venturing into uncharted territories. The experimentation never stops tracing new paths and pushing new boundaries of creation. The new one-of-a-kind High Jewelry collection pieces are presented in this book combined with the historical pieces of Bvlgari Heritage collection.

About the Authors:

Salvatore Settis is an Italian archaeologist and art historian, and he has been director of the Getty Center and of the Scuola Normale Superiore in Pisa. Lucia Silvestri is the jewelry creative director at Bvlgari. She began her career in the Bvlgari gemological department at the early age of eighteen, and the Bvlgari brothers quickly intuited her great potential. Gislain Aucremanne is Heritage curator at Bvlgari. Aliza S. Wong is a professor of History and dean of the Honors College at Texas Tech University, in 2022 she was appointed Director of the American Academy in Rome. Ersilia Vaudo holds a degree in astrophysics and has been working at the European Space Agency since 1991. Julia Watson is a designer, academic and a leading expert of Lo—TEK nature-based technologies for climate-resilience.

With unparalleled access to the Bulgari archives, Meylan guides us on an intimate journey through the lives of the clients, both famous and infamous, who have given this pre-eminent Mediterranean jeweller their patronage.With unparalleled access to the Bulgari archives, Meylan guides us on an intimate journey through the lives of the clients, both famous and infamous, who have given this pre-eminent Mediterranean jeweler their patronage.

A jewel is more than an arrangement of precious stones - it is a story. This is the principle on which Vincent Meylan, author of Christie's: The Jewellery Archives Revealed, Boucheron: The Secret Archives, Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends, and Mellerio: Jewellers to the Queens of Europe, has written his latest book. Now, with unparalleled access to the Bulgari archives, Meylan guides us on an intimate journey through the lives of the clients, both famous and infamous, who have given this pre-eminent Mediterranean jeweller their patronage.

Paris may be the traditional home of the jeweller elite, but Bulgari embraces its Roman origins. From their early creations, inspired by Byzantine and Islamic architecture, to designs like the Trombino ring and Serpenti bracelets, which are still relevant today, Bulgari gracefully navigates the line between contemporary and timeless.

Their client roster reflects their prestige. Nobility and celebrity intermingle; the Countess di Frasso shopped at Bulgari with her Hollywood superstar-beau, Gary Cooper, as did the Infanta Beatriz of Spain and Princess Maria José of Belgium. Richard Burton wooed Elizabeth Taylor with glittering Bulgari jewels, while the decadent marriage of Tyrone Power and Linda Christian featured Bulgari wedding rings. But these jewels tell tales of many genres, not just romance: from exiled Iranian Shahs to Count Cini of Monselice, held for ransom by the SS and released in exchange for Bulgari jewels.

Each story is retold with Vincent Meylan's characteristic verve, embellished with original pictures from the archives. Chapters are dedicated to wealthy customers, but also to the stones themselves, tracing the evolution of this iconic Roman company through history, and the development of their jewellery from mine, to workshop, to model.

About the Author:

Vincent Meylan writes the history and royalty pages for the French women's weekly Point de Vue. He is also a specialist in precious stones and in haute joaillerie, and the author of several biographies and works on the history of precious stones, including Queens' Jewels (Assouline, 2005), Boucheron: The Secret Archives (ACC, 2011), Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends (ACC, 2014) and Christie's: The Jewellery Archives Revealed (ACC 2016).

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The name Fabergé has long been a byword for luxury. Combining an entrepreneurial vision for craftsmanship with innovative material sourcing and technical ability, Carl Fabergé created an astonishing array of bespoke jewelled and enamelled objects at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century.

This beautifully illustrated book explores the history and legacy of the House of Fabergé, from its origins in Russia – and its role in the glamorous world of the Romanovs – to global recognition. Much of the story is familiar, but less well-known is the important part played by the London branch. Opened in 1903, and the only one outside Russia, it became a choice destination for Edwardian high society and an international clientele. Featuring over 120 pieces, from delicate flowers to Imperial Easter eggs, and with contributions from leading experts Fabergé: A Russian Love Affair celebrates the enduring fascination with this master craftsman’s works.

Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution

This exhibition explores master goldsmith, Carl Fabergé – whose internationally recognised firm symbolised Russian craftsmanship, luxury and elegance – and the Anglo-Russian relationship which saw the opening of a London branch in 1903.

About the Authors:

Kieran McCarthy is the Managing Director at Wartski.

Hanne Faurby is Project Curator of the Fabergé: a Russian Love Affair exhibition at the V&A.

Now available again in a new edition, this opulent book reaches back 25,000 years to trace the history of jewelry from the Paleolithic era to the present day

Drawn from the extensive holdings of the Staatliche Museen in Berlin, this collection of jewelry through the ages links cultures and eras to show how the design, wearing, and collecting of personal adornment has evolved over the ages. They range from classic items such as necklaces, rings and earrings to less common items with origins in non-European cultures. The book features jewelry, ranging from the splendid crowns of ancient Greece, gold earrings from Babylon and jewelled collars worn by 13th-century Islamic royalty to more modern pieces such as those contained in the imperial collection of Queen Louise of Prussia, Art Nouveau jewelry designed by Rene Lalique, and work by contemporary designers. This chronologically arranged survey includes numerous brief essays and 400 illustrations with detailed captions, making it an ideal reference for anyone interested in cultural history, the history of jewelry, or the art and craft of jewelry making.

About the Author:

Maren Eichhorn-Johannsen is deputy head of the department of Exhibitions and Special Events at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. Adelheid Rasche is head of the collection of Textiles, Clothing and Jewellery at the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg.

This book is a poetic and timeless memento, a voyage into the heart of jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels’ universe to discover their creations.

This opus, arranged as an alphabetical guide, is a veritable A-Z lexicon that revisits the themes and codes of the famous jeweler: indispensable historical references to emblematic jewels, precision watchmaking and jewelry-making techniques demonstrating unique savoir faire, and artistic collaborations. Fabienne Reybaud’s lively text leads the reader into the center of an enchanting world where everything wondrous and fantastical serves as an ever-rejuvenating source of inspiration and creativity.

This poetic and timeless memento is magnificently illustrated with fabulous miniature worlds inhabited by the masterpieces that have forged the international identity and renown of the jewelers Van Cleef & Arpels.

About the Author:

Fabienne Reybaud is a distinguished editor specialized in the luxury world, notably in jewelry and watchmaking. She writes for the most prestigious French publications and has published more than ten books, including Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium (Assouline, 2022), Louis Vuitton Tambour (Thames & Hudson, 2022), Effortless Style: Casa Lopez with Pierre Sauvage (Flammarion, 2018), Rolex: The Impossible Collection (Assouline, 2018), Watches: The Ultimate Guide (Assouline, 2006/2010), and 100 Montres de Légende with Frédéric Ramade (Solar,1999).

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Пролистать книгу A Dictionary of Wonders: Van Cleef & Arpels: The Enchanted World of Van Cleef and Arpels​ на сайте издательства.

Costume jewellery is commonly understood to mean fashionable yet affordable adornments made from non-precious material. Originating in in mid-1700s France with the rise of the bourgeoise, the earliest ‘costume jewellery’ mimicked fine jewellery styles. Since then, costume jewellery has always been evolving. From Victorian sentimentalism to the mass-produced ornaments available today, costume jewellery has developed into an artform in its own right. An encyclopaedic study of its history is long overdue. Flush with expert information, identification tips and historical anecdotes, Adorning Fashion explores the development of costume jewellery across the past four centuries. The styles of each era – Victorian, Edwardian, Arts & Crafts, Jugenstil, Art Nouveau, and each decade of the twentieth century – are given individual attention. Production methods are also explained in depth. Alloys and gilded electroplating can mimic silver and gold, while the refraction index of treated glass can, to the untrained eye, be mistaken for diamond.

Adorning Fashion discusses the contributions of a remarkable roster of designers and innovators, including Kokichi Mikimoto, Arthur L. Liberty, Carlo Giuliano, René Lalique, Elizabeth Bonté, the Castellani brothers, Jean Fouquet, Jean Després, Fulco di Verdura, Jean Schlumberger, Salvador Dalí, Miriam Haskell, Lina Baretti, Countess Cissy Zoltowska, Line Vautrin, Kenneth Jay Lane, Francisco Rebajes, Diane Love, Christian Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paco Rabanne, Yves Saint Laurent, Napier, Haskell, Trifari, Brania, Bulgari, Versace and more.

- Definitive, comprehensive overview of costume jewellery
- Follows the evolution of costume jewellery from bourgeois France to the present day
- Lavishly illustrated reference book - a must-buy for jewellery enthusiasts and fashion historians
- Includes a remarkable range of designers including Lalique, Fouquet, Dior, Balenciaga, Versace and many more

About the Author:

Deanna Farneti Cera has been researching and writing on the subject of vintage jewellery for over thirty years. An international expert on European and American fashion jewellery, Deanna was the curator and acting Vice Director at the Municipal Gallery of Modern Art in Bologna from 1975-1980, and has curated the exhibitions Le giolie di Hollywood - American Designers of Fashion Jewellery 1920-1960 (1987) and Jewels of Fantasy (1991). She wrote the book Bijoux (Federico Motta Editore, 2010), which was translated into Costume Jewellery (UK Edition) and Amazing Gems (US Edition). Deanna lives and works in Mila

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Пролистать книгу Adorning Fashion: The History of Costume Jewellery to Modern Times

The definitive catalogue of an unparalleled collection of Indian jewelry and luxury objects made at the height of the Mughal empire and the Deccan sultanates.

This is the definitive catalogue of an unparalleled collection of Indian jewelry and jewelled luxury objects made at the height of the Mughal empire and Deccan sultanates in the 16th and 17th centuries. The collection, widely regarded as one of the finest in the world, was assembled by Sheikh Nasser and Sheikha Hussa al-Sabah for The al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait, and reveals the beauty, sophistication and diversity of Indian jewelled arts.

The Indian subcontinent is naturally rich in gems. From ancient times master jewellers developed a wide array of unique techniques and made it home to the most sophisticated jewels on earth. Exotic birds and animals, flowers, trees and mythological scenes rendered in precious gemstones, gold and enamel demonstrate these artists’ prodigious imagination and skill. They produced not only an unmatched range of jewelry to adorn the body but also ritual and household items of astonishing refinement and luxury, as well as extravagantly large engraved gemstones to serve as symbols of their princely patrons’ royal power – including a spinel of nearly 250 carats believed to be the legendary Timur Ruby.

This volume includes not only the finest and most valuable pieces in the collection – some familiar to connoisseurs, others published here for the first time – but also many previously unknown types that extend our understanding of artistic output in the region. With specially commissioned photography giving unprecedented new views of more than 300 jewelled objects, this is a publication of historic importance and beauty, for all lovers of jewelry, the arts of India and of the Islamic world.

About the Author:

Salam Kaoukji is curator and collection manager of The al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait, and an editor of Thames & Hudson’s long-running and acclaimed series of catalogues. Her previous books include Precious Indian Weapons and other Princely Accoutrements (2017) and Treasury of the World: Jewelled Arts of India in the Age of the Mughals (with Manuel Keene, 2001).

With lip art worthy of a museum, this collection showcases the magic Vlada Haggerty creates with lipstick.

From opulent to optical illusion, Haggerty’s art is a blend of makeup and magic that transforms her lips into canvases. Makeup artist royalty, her work is washed across the Internet, lips dripping and bedazzled, transformed by talent and a vision that’s helped shape the beauty industry.

Featuring over 200 photographs of Haggerty’s work, Art of the Lip is a sumptuous tome to flip through and marvel at the minute-painted details on her lips in each photo. Gloss, lipstick, sequins, and jewels transform Haggerty’s skin in hundreds of different images, with looks inspired by nature, jewelry, pop culture, and more.

Much more than just lipstick, Haggerty’s art is a showcase of makeup’s power and an artist’s innovation.

About the Author:

Vlada Haggerty is a Ukrainian cosmetic artist based in Los Angeles. She works as a makeup artist, beauty and cosmetic photographer, and lip artist. Her makeup and photography have been featured in publications internationally, including Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine, Harper’s Bazaar Kazakhstan, Vogue México, Vogue India, Cosmopolitan, Refinery29, Make-Up Artist Magazine, and many, many more. She has worked with Smashbox Cosmetics as their Lip Editor in Chief and her worked has inspired makeup artists everywhere.

Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique — these great designers came together only once to display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition ever mounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting his jewelry and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European culture.

The array of displayed objects was mesmerizing: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism, and symbolism, and of styles from around the world.

Four essays discuss the works in the context of their times, illuminate the high societies served by the three masters, and trace the cultural trends behind their extraordinary creations. A treasure of accompanying photographs shows the individual exhibits, scenes from the World's Fair, and the glitterati who wore the jewelry. 

About the Authors:

Stephen Harrison is curator of decorative arts at the Cleveland Museum of Art. 
Emmanuel Ducamp has written and lectured widely on Russian and French decorative arts. 
Jeannine Falino is an independent curator, formerly the Carolyn and Peter Lynch Curator of Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Jewelry, long associated with luxury, is also becoming a medium for social responsibility and ethical values. Kyle Roderick, an authority on ethical jewelry, profiles fifteen designers who are at the forefront of refashioning the medium for today's consumers.

In the wake of Charles Leavitt's insightful 2006 movie Blood Diamond, which told how conflict diamonds fund civil wars, the buying and wearing of ethically sourced and sustainably mined jewelry has become a priority in today's luxury market. Bejeweled is the first book to cover this timely subject. Profiling leading international designers who are at the forefront of the ethical jewelry movement, this beautifully photographed publication examines how an ancient art is powering a green revolution in chic jewelry for everyone.

Included are renowned designers such as Pippa Small, an early user of fair-mined gold, who employs local artisans to fabricate her one-of-a-kind pieces; Dewey Nelson, a Native American Hopi who incorporates 1,000-year-old tribal motifs in his reclaimed-silver pieces; and Loren Nicole, whose jewelry features intricate hand-carved gemstones and 22-karat gold alloyed in the same formula used by ancient Roman goldsmiths. Illustrated with exquisite photographs of individual pieces, featured both alone and on celebrities, who are turning the red carpet "green" by wearing ethically sourced jewelry, Bejeweled is for all gemstone and design fans.

About the Author:

Journalist Kyle Roderick is the founder and editor in chief of BIJOUXreview. She covers design-driven jewelry and timepieces for Forbes and other publications.

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Пролистать книгу Bejeweled: The World of Ethical Jewelry

A lavish monograph on the esteemed Spanish jewelry designer, whose work celebrates nature, geometry and the cosmos, on the occasion of her fiftieth anniversary.

Called the “queen of plique-à-jour,” after the historic and rarified enameling technique, Luz Camino has been in a continuous conversation with the world around her through her art; everything from birds, flowers, and shapes to rubber bands and even pencil shavings have been her muse. This first monograph on her work featuring more than two hundred fifty of her creations, many of which have never before been seen outside of private collections. This book beautifully showcases the sophistication, innovation, and creativity of one of the most adept jewelers working today.

About the Author:

Luz Camino is the first female master jeweler in Spain. She has spent the past fifty years mastering contemporary and antique jewelry techniques, developing an expansive collection of unique pieces with a wide range of inspirations and typologies. Her work is in the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Museum of Arts and Design in New York. Clare Phillips is the Elisabeth Gage Curator of Jewellery from the Department of Decorative Art and Sculpture at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Carolina Herrera is an American fashion designer who launched her eponymous label in 1981. Her awards include the 2004 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award and their Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2008.

An engaging overview of the changing styles and uses of brooches and badges from the Middle Ages to today

From medieval pilgrim badges and Renaissance hat decorations to jewelled brooches and twentieth-century political pins, brooches and badges are often more than practical or decorative dress fasteners; they are expressions of identity. Focusing on the V&A’s world-famous collection, Brooches and Badges explores the evolution of these intricate and versatile works of art, and the way in which changes in dress have dictated their use.

Contents List:

Introduction • 1. ‘Send…letters, tokens, brooches, and ranges’ 1000–1500 • 2. ‘Rich Apparell, precious Jewells’ 1500–1800 • 3. ‘Any number of brooches, up and down and everywhere’ 1800–1900 • 4. ‘The new jewel has been born’ 1900–1920 • 5. ‘Clips are going like wildfire’ 1920–1940 • 6. ‘Almost anything goes’ 1940–1960 • 7. ‘Precious stones have won their freedom’ 1960-1990 • 8. ‘The shock of beauty’ 1990–The Present • References; Glossary; Further Reading; Notes; Major Collections Featuring Brooches and Badges Acknowledgments; Author’s Biography; Index

About the Author:

Rachel Church is a Curator in the Sculpture, Metalwork, Ceramics and Glass Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum with a special responsibility for the rings collection. She has published and lectured on jewelry and worked on the re-display of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery. She has contributed to a number of V&A publications, including writing on gold boxes in The Gilbert Collection at the V&A (2009).

A "cool" guide to Rome, with an emotional tour of the city's key historical sites and monuments revisited through the inspiration behind Bvlgari's jewelry.

Since 1884, the majestic beauty of the Eternal City and its rich archaeological, artistic, and cultural heritage have represented an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Bvlgari. Yesterday as today, Rome's monuments and artistic details are gracefully evoked in the brand's jewelry creations. For example, the design of the iconic B-zero1 ring was inspired by the Colosseum, the ultimate symbol of the city, and likewise the recurrent octagonal geometries watch dial refers to the coffered ceiling of the Basilica of Maxentius.

This handy, pocket-sized volume takes us on an unprecedented historical, artistic, and emotional tour of the city. In addition to an actual guide to the monuments, the narration is enriched by short stories by some of the best-known Roman authors from the world of contemporary Italian literature, inspired by the most iconic locations in the city.

The book is further enhanced by contributions from figures linked to the city by birth or by adoption, including renowned names from fashion, cinema, sport, and music.

The Bvlgari jewelry and the places in Rome that inspired it are photographed in stunning images with artistic direction by Jan Králícek.

About the Author:

Jan Králícek studied cultural anthropology and media at Charles University in Prague. He is now creative director of Vogue Czechoslovakia and fashion editor-at-large for VoguePortugal and GQ Portugal. Costantino D'Orazio is an art historian and curator. He was resident curator at MACRO (Contemporary Art Museum of Rome) from 2014-2019, and is curator of public art projects in Villa Borghese Park, Rome. He collaborates with LUISS University and Link Campus and is the author of a number of books dedicated to Rome and italian art.

A sumptuous exploration of the influence of the Islamic arts on Cartier’s jewelry, published to accompany a major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris

Cartier and Islamic Art traces the glorious ways Islamic art has inspired Maison Cartier from the early 20th century to today, showing how its geometric patterns and opulent colour palette augured the birth of a decidedly modern aesthetic. Masterpieces of Islamic art, including works brought together from Louis Cartier’s extraordinary personal collection, as well as archival drawings, books and photographs, sit alongside dazzling period photographs of Cartier jewelry, while in-depth texts by distinguished scholars of both Islamic art and architecture as well as the decorative arts illuminate and celebrate the beauty of Islamic art and the astonishing creative genius of Maison Cartier.

Accompanies the exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, from 21 October 2021 to 20 February 2022.

Contents List:

Forewords by Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet and Pierre Rainero

CATALOGUE

Cartier – The Story
Pascale Lepeu

A Journey into the Cartier Archives
Violette Petit

The “Revelation” of Islamic Arts: a Path to Modernity?
Judith Henon-Raynaud and Évelyne Possémé

Exquisite Manuscripts and Inlaid Objects: Reconstructing Louis Cartier’s Collection of Islamic Art
Judith Henon-Raynaud

Cartier and India: a Source of Formal and Technical Renewal
Évelyne Possémé

Cartier’s lexicon of forms: Abstractions, the ‘Arab’ Style, and the ‘Persian’ Style
Heather Ecker

An Exploration of Islamic Aesthetic Influence on Cartier’s Graphics, 1909-1940
Sarah Schleuning

APPENDIX

Check list of exhibited works
(with illustrations)

Comprehensive list of Louis Cartier’s collection (with illustrations)

About the Authors:

Heather Ecker is Marguerite S. Hoffman and Thomas W. Lentz Curator of Islamic and Medieval Art at Dallas Museum of Art. Judith Henon-Renaud is Deputy Director of the Department of Islamic Arts at the Louvre. Pascale Lepeu is curator of the Cartier Collection. Violette Petit is head of the Cartier Paris Archives. Évelyne Possémé is Chief Curator, Art Nouveau-Art Deco and Antique and Modern Jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Sarah Schleuning is Interim Chief Curator and The Margot B. Perot Senior Curator of Decorative Arts and Design at Dallas Museum of Art.

List of Contributors:

Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Cyrille Vigneron, Agustín Arteaga, Olivier Gabet, Pierre Rainero

This refined volume documents the new collection of high jewelry from Cartier.

Through Le Voyage Recommencé, its latest collection of high jewelry and precious objects, Cartier pays tribute to the richness of its style. Embarking readers on a prodigious journey, the jewelry showcased in this book explores the Maison’s iconic fields of expression: essential lines, geometry, colors, flora and fauna, and influences from world cultures, to name but a few. The renowned jeweler continually pushes the boundaries of creation to discover new horizons.

Accompanied by text focusing on the concept of style in the arts, the pieces presented in this richly illustrated volume take us on a renewed journey ― a voyage recommencé ― into the heart of the Cartier style, where creative imagination and superlative savoir faire transform precious stones and materials into magnificent jewelry.

About the Authors:

Francois Chaille is passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry, and watchmaking. He has collaborated with Flammarion to publish over fifteen books on these subjects.

Hélène Kelmachter is an art historian and has curated exhibitions on contemporary art and on artistic professions. She has been a cultural attaché for the French Embassy in Tokyo and Buenos Aires, and, since February 2020, at the French Embassy in Italy.