Дизайн

"I thought I knew almost everything about the history of fashion until I met Kerry Taylor. The inside-out knowledge she has of garments will inspire both students and designers to look at fashion with fresh eyes." - Sarah Mower, US Vogue

"This beautiful book by Kerry Taylor - the go-to woman for vintage and antique couture - is a treat for collectors and fashion lovers alike." - The Wall Street Journal

"Whatever my question about vintage, Kerry Taylor has the answer. Her expertise, knowledge and historical anecdotes have raised the level of interest in this subject hugely." -Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph

Named one of Glamour Magazine's "Must-Read Style Books"!

Profiled by Vogue and The New York Times and courted by style icons with wardrobes to sell and top designers in search of inspiration, Kerry Taylor is one of the world's leading experts on vintage fashion and couture. In this lavishly illustrated book, Kerry tells the story of a century of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their creations. All the fashion stars are here from Poiret to McQueen via Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Madame Grès, Dior, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Alaïa, and Margiela. For each designer Kerry explores their career through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, explaining what makes each item so desirable to the collector or wearer of vintage fashion.

Each chapter includes at least one 'style icon' whose relationship with fashion has had a lasting impact, including Baba D'Erlanger, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso and Kate Moss. Illustrated with a mix of gorgeous fashion photography plus images from Kerry's own astonishing archive, this book is set to become an invaluable guide for collectors of vintage (whatever their budget) and all those who love fashion.

Contents includes...

Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy
Prologue by Christopher Kane
1900s
Paul Poiret
Lucile
Mariano Fortuny
1920s
Jean Patou
Jeanne Lanvin
Chanel in the Twenties
1930s
Elsa Schiaparelli
Style Icon Wallis Simpson
Madeleine Vionnet - The Architect of Couture
1940s
The effects of War on Fashion in Europe
American Fashion in the Forties
Christian Dior - The Saviour of French Haute Couture
1950s
Pierre Balmain
Cristóbal Balenciaga - The Master
Style Icon Grace Kelly
1960s
Mary Quant
Hubert de Givenchy 
Style Icon Audrey Hepburn
1970s
Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies
Zandra Rhodes
Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
1980s
Italian Masters
Azzedine Alaïa
John Galliano
1990s
The New Romantics
Thierry Mugler
Style Icon Kate Moss
2000s
Later McQueen
Style Icon Daphne Guinness
Collecting Vintage
Taking Care of your Collection

The most ambitious and comprehensive book on women’s vintage fashion ever published, featuring over 1,000 garments dating from the 1920s to the 1980s

Unlimited inspiration for fashion designers, stylists, collectors and style-setters everywhere

• Explores every aspect of a woman’s vintage wardrobe in over 1,000 stand-out examples, from dresses and skirts to hats, shoes and bags, drawn from fashions from the 1920s to the 1980s.
• Not just another history of fashion, this is a survey of how fashion past continues to inspire fashion present – as seen on the street, on the catwalk, and on devotees such as Kate Moss and Sienna Miller.
• Designs by world-famous names feature alongside lesser-known brands beloved of collectors, such as Lilli Ann and Horrockses Fashions.
• Unique handmade pieces as well as icons of vintage fashion, from Marilyn Monroe’s bra to the Ossie Clark dress that famously features in David Hockney’s painting.
• Includes invaluable practical tips on how to build a collection, and how to date, clean and care for vintage clothing.

About the Author:

Nicky Albrechtsen is the proprietor of the Vintage Resource Studio in Brick Lane, London, which provides costumes and props to the theatre and media.

Vintage Fashion is the ultimate guide to the most exemplary women's clothing from the turn of the twentieth century through the end of the 1980s. Along with a detailed, authoritative text, this gorgeous book offers more than 250 outstanding full-color photographs showcasing the quality fabrics, innovative techniques, silhouettes, shapes, and exquisite workmanship that are testimony to enduring and influential styles.

Each chapter focuses on a specific decade and is a rich survey of each era, placing the evolution of women's fashion in a cultural context. The most important designers and signature looks are discussed in detail and emphasized through beautiful illustrations, photographs, and fabric swatches. Finally, each chapter ends with a Key Looks feature that offers an at-a-glance view of the important shapes, colors, and details that defined each era.

Vintage Fashion concludes with a shopping guide, which not only offers tips on where to buy vintage pieces, but also how to care for them, and glossaries on fashion terms and the century's most collectable and important designers. The definitive word on the most influential designers and looks of the twentieth century, this book is an invaluable resource for lovers of fashion and vintage clothing as well as a source of inspiration for designers and those looking to spice up their personal style.

Decade by decade, the lavishly illustrated "Vintage Handbags" recounts over 100 years of shoe history, from Elsa Schiaparelli's mesh bags for Whiting & Davis in the 1920s through the Hermes Kelly bag in the 1950s to the Fendi Baguette of the 1990s. Accompanied by archive images, fashion photography and specially commissioned photographs of period pieces, the most collectible and beautiful handbags are showcased. An invaluable reference as well as a visual delight of times past, the book explores the key designers, technical developments and cultural influences that shaped handbag design, revealing exquisite and groundbreaking work from such luminaries as Salvatore Ferragamo, Coco Chanel, Hermes, Fendi, Bonnie Cashin and Judith Leiber.

Contents
Foreword TBC; Introduction; 1900-19: The Birth of the Bag; 1920s: Flapper Styles; 1930s: Decoration & Surrealism; 1940s: Utility Bags; 1950s: Structure & Decorum; 1960s: The Swinging Sixties; 1970s: Free Independence; 1980s: The Power Decade; 1990s to Now: Future Collectibles; Vintage Shopping Guide; Sources & Sites; Glossary of Designers; Index.

An exquisitely illustrated celebration of this influential style that is now at the forefront of interior design. Vintage Industrial covers the period from 1900 to 1950, which produced the raw, functional aesthetic that has become a cornerstone of modern design. The advent of the second industrial revolution created the need for a new kind of furniture to satisfy the demands of a rapidly growing workforce. Chairs, tables, lamps, and modular storage were designed from new materials to be mass-produced, stackable, and adjustable to the developing needs of brand-new industries that in turn were manufacturing the products that would define a changing society. These pieces, that inform a reclaimed style, are now highly popular among collectors and interior designers.

This volume celebrates the engineers who shaped the industrial aesthetic as the unsung heroes of modern design and showcases their creations. By discovering ways to work iron and steel into functional forms, luminaries such as Bernard-Albin Gras, George Carwardine, Jean Prouvé, and Édouard-Wilfred Buquet sparked a revolution in the way we think about our built environment.

Five chapters — on lighting, seating, tables, storage, and curiosities — describe the major innovations and designs from the period and include stunning photography depicting these objects in homes, workshops, factories, and warehouses. Meticulously curated, this elegant book is an informative style guide and source of inspiration for how to live with industrial design.

About the Authors:

Misha de Potestad is a journalist and stylist who has reported on interior design for forty years, writing articles for French Elle and Elle Decor.

Patrice Pascal is a photographer whose editorial and advertising work has appeared in numerous magazines, including French Elle and Elle Decor.

Пролистать книгу  Vintage Industrial: Living With Design Icons

Decade by decade, the lavishly illustrated "Vintage Jewellery" recounts over 100 years of history, from Lalique's Art Nouveau enamelling at the turn of the twentieth century to Cartier's gemstones and Christian Dior's mid-century costume pieces to Harry Winston's diamonds. Accompanied by archive images, fashion photography and specially commissioned photographs of period pieces, the most collectible and beautiful bracelets, necklaces, rings and brooches are showcased. An invaluable reference as well as a visual delight of times past, the book explores the key designers and jewellery houses that shaped jewellery design.

Contents:

Foreword TBC; Introduction; 1890-10: Art Nouveau; 1910s: The Edwardian Period; 1920s: Art Deco Designs; 1930s: The Age of Progress; 1940s: Faux Fashions; 1950s: Mid-Century Modern; 1960s: The Swinging Sixties; 1970s: Natural and Free; 1980s: The Power and the Glory; 1990s to Now: Future Collectibles; Vintage Shopping Guide; Sources & Sites; Glossary of Designers; Index.

A visual journey through the fashion knitwear of the decades, "Vintage Knitwear" takes a close look at the key periods, significant styles, iconoclastic designers and cultural influences in fashion knitwear. Organized chronologically, this book enables the reader to identify the unique constructions, innovative finishes and technical developments that determine the most influential knitwear designs of the decades of the twentieth century. Individual pieces that epitomize the defining characteristic of each designer or epoch are analyzed in detail.

Contents:

Foreword TBC; Introduction; 1900-19: From Combinations to Cardigans; 1920s: Jazz and the Jumper Craze; 1930s: Art Deco and the Moderne; 1940s: Knitting for All; 1950s: Fully Fashioned; 1960s: Op, Pop and Psychedelia; 1970s: Back to Nature; 1980s: The Designer Decade and Subverting the Stitch; 1990s to Now: Future Collectibles; Vintage Shopping Guide; Sources & Sites; Glossary of Designers; Index.

From 1920s French knickers to 1950s pin-up brassieres, these fabulous vintage pieces chart the progression of lingerie over the last 120 years. The book covers a range of fascinating garments, including 1890s corsets, 1940s garter belts and basques, 1950s New Look girdles, brassieres, knickers and much more.

The book includes 30 fully annotated working patterns alongside drawings, photographs and practical advice on any feature or alteration necessary for making up the garments.

For any costume designer working on stage or screen, the historically accurate patterns are an essential for capturing the classic shapes of any period. Fashion students and historians will find the period details and historical background of each garment an invaluable resource. Whether you need to construct a historically accurate period garment or simply wish to channel your inner 1950s starlet, this is the book for you.

Classic workwear, sports and military clothing

Curated by connoisseurs of vintage clothing, The Vintage Showroom is a vast collection of rare 20th-century pieces that fashion designers and stylists pay to view, using the cut and detailing of individual garments as inspiration for their own work. Offering one-of-a-kind access, Vintage Menswear now makes this unique resource available in book form.

Featuring 130 of the most influential examples of 20th-century and earlier European, American and Asian utilitarian tailoring and design, the book is divided into three sections of sportswear, militaria and workwear, covering everything from 1940s flying jackets and polar exploration suits to vintage French denims. Stunning full-page bleeds and front and back views showcase ground-breaking designs in concept, shape and cut.

Providing over 300 lavishly illustrated pages of rare, must-see designs, Vintage Menswear is the essential choice of 20th-century vintage tailoring and detailing and an inspirational resource for students and menswear fashion designers and stylists.

The focus of this book is on the classic, ageless, and enduring flowers, which we have dubbed Vintage roses.

This user-friendly term encompasses both the true Old roses and the best of the Modern roses. All Vintage roses have one thing in common; they are garden-friendly roses that celebrate the style and grace of the old. Vintage roses can be overblown, multi-petalled or deliciously simple, and this sumptuous tome is a love letter to these beautiful blooms. Unearth the hands-on know-how and history of the world's favourite flower.

This book will appeal to the armchair gardener, gardening novice and seasoned expert alike. At the heart of the book are over 60 specially selected specimens - including those that have the best visual appearance, the most fragrant perfume, are easy to grow and produce beautiful flowers for cutting. The book covers not just original varieties such as Rosa Mundi (with its beautifully variegated stripes of deep pink and white), but also the wonderful new varieties that have been developed over the last 20 years. The no-fuss notes on pruning and care and the straightforward advice that accompanies each variety completely dispel the myth that roses are difficult or time-consuming to grow - proving that you can just as easily grow roses in a pot on your front steps as you can in a large country garden. Covering the best rambling, climbing and shrub roses, from bourbon to tea and floribunda to polyantha, you'll be sure to find your new favourite variety. Plus, tips and tricks on arranging your cut roses makes it even easier to enjoy these fabulous flowers at home.

With contemporary commentary on each bloom, easy-to-follow advice and glorious photography, this book will appeal to everyone who appreciates the classic beauty of the vintage rose.

Featuring over 25 swimming costumes, two-piece garments and bikinis from 1880 to 1970, these fabulous and historically accurate patterns chart the progression of swimwear over the last 130 years, including garments for women, men and children.

The fully annotated patterns are accompanied by photographs and practical advice on any techniques or alterations necessary for making up the garments. The book also features two projects with step-by-step instructions.

Fashion students and historians will find the period details and historical background of each garment an invaluable resource, while the patterns are perfect for any costume designer working for stage or screen.
Over 25 stunning and historically accurate patterns for retro swimwear, from 1880 to 1970.

The power of the classic tee. With the addition of just a few letters or an image the simple T-shirt can become a personal billboard

What started as the standard issue undershirt of the U.S. military, by the mid-1970s had evolved into a means of self-expression and individualism. Musical taste, political slant, favorite TV show or movie, vacation destination and brand preference — it's all on a tee.

From DIY to the mass market, the printed T-shirts has been embraced by fashion designers and artists, street culture and brand-building corporations. Yet its basic form and function are unchanged. This quintessentially American item — best teamed with a pair of blue jeans — remains the simplest and most direct way of broadcasting our ideals and allegiances, sense of humor and cultural passions.

Selected from the collection of Patrick and Marc Guetta, owners of World of Vintage T-Shirts on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, this book assembles over 650 stone-cold classics of the genre. Drawn primarily from the golden era of the 1970s and 1980s, these vintage T-shirts are not merely nostalgic artifacts; they represent an historical record of political, popular and corporate thought in America. Vintage T-Shirts documents the most striking variations on this infinitely versatile garment. With an introduction on the history of the T-shirt in American popular culture by Alison A. Nieder, Vintage T-Shirts is an essential work of reference for anyone interested in pop culture, fashion, or graphic design.

Authors:
Patrick & Marc Guetta's World of Vintage T-Shirts store on Melrose Avenue has been Hollywood's top source of vintage Ts for over a decade, catering to celebrities, tourists and Los Angeles' fashion obsessed. Patrick Guetta, worked with major movie studios in creating licensed apparel company Too Cute!, is now working on launching his own characters called Junglenuts.

Alison A. Nieder has worked in fashion since 1985, in retail, apparel production, and as a fashion business journalist. She is executive editor of California Apparel News, a fashion trade publication covering the West Coast apparel and textile industries.

Nostalgic poster images evoke a world of romance, glamour, and adventure. Twelve colorful postcards in a variety of early-20th-century styles offer appealing invitations to vacation at the New York World's Fair of 1939, Atlantic City, the beaches of California and the Mediterranean, Italy, France, and other exciting locales.

The Sneaker as (Hyper)Object. Nike and Virgil Abloh reinvigorate 10 icons of sneaker history

In 2016, sportswear manufacturer Nike and fashion designer Virgil Abloh joined forces to create a sneaker collection celebrating 10 of the Oregon-based company’s most iconic shoes. With their project The Ten — which reimagines icons like Air Jordan 1, Air Max 90, Air Force 1, and Air Presto, among others — they reinvigorated sneaker culture.

Virgil Abloh’s new designs offer deep insights into engineering ingenuity and burst with cultural cachet. Drawing on the genius of the original shoe using lettering, ironic labels, collage, and sculpting techniques, Abloh plays with language and sculptural elements to construct new meaning. Inspired by the wit of Dadaism, architectural theory, and avant-garde happenings, he analyzes what makes each shoe iconic and deconstructs it into an artistic assemblage, making each shoe into a piece of industrial design, a readymade sculpture, and a wearable all at once.

Icons traces Abloh’s investigative, creative process through documentation of the prototypes, original text messages from Abloh to Nike designers, and treasures from the Nike archives. We find Swooshes sliced away from Air Jordans and reapplied with tape or thread, Abloh’s typical text fragments in quotation marks on Air Force 1, and All Stars cut into pieces. We take a look behind the scenes and witness Abloh’s DIY approach, which gives each model in the Off-White^TM c/o Nike collection its own unique touch.

The book documents Abloh’s cooperative way of working and reaffirms the power of print. For its design Nike and Abloh partnered with the acclaimed London-based design studio Zak Group. Together they conceived a two-part compendium, equal parts catalog and conceptual toolbox. The first part of the book presents a visual culture of sneakers while a lexicon in the second part defines the key people, places, objects, ideas, materials, and scenes from which the project grew. Texts by Nike’s Nicholas Schonberger, writer Troy Patterson, curator and historian Glenn Adamson, and Virgil Abloh himself frame the collaborative work within fashion and design history. A foreword by Hiroshi Fujiwara places the project within the historical continuum of Nike collaborators.

The author:

Born in Rockford, Illinois, Virgil Abloh is a multi-hyphenate creative that often rejects classification on creativity. He operates in the realms of Art, Design, and Culture in conjunction with advocacy, mentoring, and philanthropy in the spaces he occupies. After earning a degree in Civil Engineering from the University of Wisconsin-Madison, he completed a master’s degree in Architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology (IIT), Chicago. At IIT, while studying a Bauhaus design curriculum devised by Mies van der Rohe, Abloh began to craft the principles of his broader art practice. The Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago presented a major traveling survey of Abloh’s work in summer 2019 — one of the highest attended exhibitions in the museum’s history. Currently, Abloh is the Chief Creative Director and founder of Off-White™️ and Men’s Artistic Director at Louis Vuitton, amongst other endeavors.

Showcasing twenty-five years of iconic art, fashion, and design content from renowned New York–based publication Visionaire.

A publishing experiment that began in 1991, Visionaire has taken the shape of everything from a leather-bound portfolio to 12-inch vinyl records to a collection of dolls. With intimate reflections by contributors, a prized collection of nearly 450 images selected from sixty-five issues produced by an astounding cast of artists, photographers, and designers, this book delivers a rich panorama of two decades of media and fashion revolution from the perspective of independent publishing. Original commentary by cofounders Cecilia Dean and James Kaliardos provides unprecedented access to a pivotal New York scene and the creative life behind Visionaire as it shaped the fashion zeitgeist, propelling emerging voices and exceptional content while challenging the limits of print media. This volume is an essential piece of contemporary fashion and media history that traces the shape of things to come. 

Visionaire contributors include photographers Bruce Weber, Inez & Vinoodh, Mario Sorrenti, Mert and Marcus, Steven Klein, and Steven Meisel; artists Alex Katz, John Baldessari, KAWS, Marina Abramovic, and Yoko Ono; designers Karl Lagerfeld, Rei Kawakubo, and Riccardo Tisci; pop icons Bjork, David Bowie, Kate Moss, Lady Gaga, and Miley Cyrus; and many more. Art and fashion connoisseurs and anyone interested in media, design, and culture will find this landmark volume indispensable.

About the Authors:

Cecilia Dean and James Kaliardos are the co-founders of Visionaire and VisionaireFILM. Pierre Alexandre de Looz is an architect and writer.