Мода, гламур

An expansive collection that introduces the short-lived and ruthlessly creative phenomenon that was Blacklips.

From June 1992 to March 1995, in the midst of the AIDS crisis in NYC, an extraordinary theatrical collective emerged from the queer underground. Blacklips Performance Cult, initiated by ANOHNI and joined by a cabal of fellow artists, drag queens, punks, nightlife veterans and students, performed a new play every Monday night at 1:00 a.m. at the Pyramid Club on 101 Avenue A. Blacklips never courted mainstream attention. However, the group left a sustaining impression within New York's late night subculture by melding hysterical drag, surreal horror, and disconcerting tenderness.

In Blacklips: Her Life and Her Many, Many Deaths, ANOHNI and coeditor Marti Wilkerson lay bare the collective's archives in photographs, scripts, and the assembled ephemera from more than one hundred and twenty original "plays." Featuring images from newly digitized film and video recordings, texts from participants and audience members, and an introduction by Lia Gangitano, this expansive collection introduces to the twenty-first century the short-lived and ruthlessly creative phenomenon that was Blacklips.

About the Author:

ANOHNI is a visual artist, musician, and playwright who spent her twenties performing music and staging plays in late-night clubs and experimental theatres in New York City. She formed her music group Antony and the Johnsons - named in memory of trans activist Marsha P. Johnson - in 1998. After releasing the group’s self-titled first record in 2000 and touring around the world with Lou Reed as a backup singer, her second album, I Am a Bird Now (2005), was awarded the Mercury Prize in the UK. ANOHNI has since released The Crying Light (2008), Swanlights (2009), the live album Cut the World (2012), and HOPELESSNESS (2016), a collaboration with Hudson Mohawke and Daniel Lopatin. She curated the 2012 Meltdown Festival at the Southbank in London, and has performed her music with symphonies in venues including the Royal Opera House in London, Teatro Royale in Madrid, Sydney Opera House, the Olympia in Paris and Radio City Music Hall. ANOHNI’s visual installations, performances, and plays have been presented by institutions including Kunsthal Nikolaj in Copenhagen, Bielefeld Kunsthalle in Germany, MoMA, the Whitney Museum, The Kitchen NYC, Aarhus 2017 Capital of Culture, and the Barbican. She scored Valentino’s Spring collection presentation “Anatomy of Couture” in Milan in February

107 color photographs, 216 b/w photographs, 21 toned photographs

At first I thought strictly about a book of photographs on fashion. As I worked on it, I thought more and more about something my friend the late, great fashion designer Gianni Versace once said, in giving me advice before an assignment, "Call me des mode, but give me beauty."

And with these inspired words I wanted to make a record of how I journeyed out into the world and recorded what most people call fashion. These photographs were not just about the shape of clothes, but also how one sees fashion in nature, architecture, and in the human spirit.

When I began photographing, I was at Life Magazine borrowing some equipment. I ran into a bunch of other photographers in the camera department. One photographer asked, "what kind of photos are you doing for the magazine?" I replied, "I am going to do some pictures of girls in bathing suits." They all burst out laughing at me, and said, "that doesn't sound too serious." That's when I knew that as a photographer I didn't want people to stop laughing with me.

That laughter can be found in a picture of a girl wearing a dress by Yohji Yamamoto that's so big she can't even walk in it or a boy wearing twigs as a tunic at Karl Lagerfeld's chateau in Brittany or the Duchess of Devonshire feeding her pet chickens in a Jean Patou couture evening dress from the 1940s. In this crazy world of ours, most things don't make sense any more, but the wonderful thing about taking pictures of people wearing or not wearing clothes is that maybe you won't solve all the world's problems but you'll at least be giving back a seed of imagination to our garden of lost innocence. And it's fashion that can create a big fantasy life for all those who enter.

Перукар Боб Ресін підходить до голови як до арматури для скульптури.

Людина, яка створила деякі з найбільш авангардних зачісок і головних уборів, які носила Леді Ґаґа, Ресіне підняв зачіски на неймовірно творчі висоти — часто буквально, коли він приводить коси та пасма своїх об’єктів у контури, що не піддають впливу гравітації, доповнюючи їх скульптурними жестами, такими як купи навушників чи сонцезахисних окулярів, вусики Play-Doh. і складні сітки з дроту або целофану. Починаючи як художник, Ресін забезпечив проект створення зачісок і прикрас для голови Анрі Бенделя.

Його дизайни привернули увагу всесвітньо відомого перукаря Жана Луї Давида, який запропонував йому можливість поїхати до Парижа та відточити свою майстерність; Через чотири роки Recine повернувся до Нью-Йорка, озброївшись портфоліо інноваційних стилів для найкращих фотографів і журналів. Сьогодні Ресін є легендою серед знаменитостей, які працювали з Гвінет Пелтроу, Шарліз Терон, Наомі Воттс, Анджеліною Джолі, Кетрін Зета-Джонс, Кейт Хадсон, Рене Зеллвегер, Умою Турман, Ніколь Кідман і Тільдою Суінтон. Його таланти навіть повернули його у світ образотворчого мистецтва завдяки його широкій співпраці з Ванессою Бікрофт.

Alchemy of Beauty збирає оригінальні твори мистецтва Речіна, від фотографій, ескізів, колажів і картин до раніше опублікованих і неопублікованих редакційних зображень його незвичайних скульптур і головних уборів. Художнє керівництво томом — Фаб’єн Барон.

Our Fair Lady. The many facets of Hepburn's beauty, on and off set.

In his distinguished career as a Hollywood photographer, Bob Willoughby captured Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Fonda, but remains unequivocal about his favorite subject: Audrey Kathleen Ruston, later Edda van Heemstra Hepburn-Ruston, best known as Audrey Hepburn. Willoughby was called in to shoot the new starlet one morning shortly after she arrived in Hollywood in 1953. It was a humdrum commission for the portraitist often credited with having perfected the photojournalistic movie still, but when he met the Belgian-born beauty, Willoughby was enraptured. “She took my hand like… well a princess, and dazzled me with that smile that God designed to melt mortal men’s hearts,” he recalled.

As Hepburn’s career soared following her Oscar-winning US debut in Roman Holiday, Willoughby became a trusted friend, framing her working and home life. His historic, perfectionist, tender photographs seek out the many facets of Hepburn’s beauty and elegance, as she progresses from her debut to her career-high of My Fair Lady in 1963. Willoughby’s studies, showing her on set, preparing for a scene, interacting with actors and directors, and returning to her private life, comprise one of photography’s great platonic love affairs and an unrivalled record of one of the 20th century’s touchstone beauties.

The photographer:

Bob Willoughby (1927-2009) took his first photo at the age of twelve. By 1954 his exhibitions of photographs of jazz musicians and dancers led to a contract with Globe Photos, followed by work at Harper's Bazaar. After shooting Judy Garland during the filming of A Star is Born he became the first "unit photographer"— hired specifically by movie studios to take on-set promotional "stills". The author of numerous books on photography, he lived his last years in Vence, France.

Legendary actress Brigitte Bardot led fashion revolutions throughout her career; this retrospective includes BB’s comments on her iconic style in a rare, intimate interview.

Brigitte Bardot is a style icon whose legacy has undeniably shaped the face of fashion as we know it. Discovered by a magazine editor at only 14 years old, she found fame and admiration on the big screen in the 1950s, and then became the fiery sex symbol of the groovy and liberated 1960s. Over the course of her career, all of the great French designers ― including Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, and Pierre Cardin ― outfitted Bardot on and off screen. In photographs that capture her attending prestigious receptions or on glamorous visits to the United States, in fashion shoots and on film sets, this volume illustrates all the key looks that BB wore and brought to the international spotlight as she invented and edited her own highly imitated style. In an extensive ― and extremely rare ― interview, accompanied by her personal comments on the photos, Bardot explains the context of the often vanguard fashions she wore, making headlines wherever she went.

Evoking French style and the glamor of St. Tropez, her legacy endures ― from ballerina slippers with sweeping skirts to figure-hugging knitwear, gingham fabrics and gypsy dresses, kohl eyeliner and tousled hair.

On one side, Dita Von Teese shares the beauty of the burlesque world, with bubblegum dreams and show tunes to strip to. Flip over for fantasies in fetish with dramatic costumes and the allure of submission.

Burlesque and the Art of the Teese

"I advocate glamour. Every day. Every minute."

I'm a good dancer and a nice girl, but I'm a great showgirl. I sell, in a word, magic. Burlesque is a world of illusion and dreams and of course, the striptease. Whether I am bathing in my martini glass, riding my sparkling carousel horse, or emerging from my giant gold powder compact, I live out my most glamorous fantasies by bringing nostalgic imagery to life.

Let me show you my world of gorgeous pin-ups, tantalizing stripteases, and femmes fatales. I'll give you a glimpse into my life, but a lady never reveals all.

Fetish and the Art of the Teese

You may have come for the fetish. Or you may just be sneaking a peek at this mysterious and peculiar other side. No matter what you've come for, there is something for you to indulge in.

My world of fetish may not be the one that you would expect. As a burlesque performer, I entice my audience, bringing their minds closer and closer to sex and then -- as good temptress must -- snatching it away. As a fetish star, I apply the same techniques. . . .

An opera-length kid leather glove, a strict wasp waist, an impossibly high patent leather heel, a severely painted red lip. . . . Come with me into my world of decadent fetishism.

"Carine, and her vision of French Vogue, embodies all that the world likes to think of as Parisian style: a sense of chic that's impeccable and sometimes idiosyncratic and which forever lives on a moonlit street as seen through the lens of Helmut Newton." - Anna Wintour Karl Lagerfeld once said that if you close your eyes and imagine the ideal French woman, it would be Carine Roitfeld. She is a fashion visionary and a muse. Since the start of her career in the early 1990s, through her collaborations with the legendary photographer Mario Testino, Roitfeld has been credited with launching Tom Ford's career at Gucci, as well as turning French Vogue into one of the industry's most worshipped magazines.

This elegant volume is a visual history of Roitfeld's fearless career. A daring instigator, she is known for pushing the limits with her subversive styling ideas. Featuring a selection of 250 magazine tear sheets and covers from pivotal editorial shoots and advertising campaigns, as well as intimate visual ephemera, this book gives an inside view into Roitfeld's creative thought process and sensibility. A must-have for those interested in cutting-edge fashion and femininity, this book will empower women to follow Roitfeld's lead and take risks with their personal style.

About the Author:

Carine Roitfeld is a legendary stylist and former editor in chief of French Vogue. Olivier Zahm is an art critic, renowned curator, and art director. He is the editor in chief of Purple Fashion. Alex Wiederin at Buero New York is creative director of Vogue Hommes International. His work in fashion, photography, and graphic design is highly acclaimed.

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Пролистать книгу  Carine Roitfeld: Irreverent

Lavishly illustrated, this amazing photo book offers an almost inadvertent glimpse into celebrities' lives and their close relationship with cars. With more than 160 pictures, film stills and memorable paparazzi shots, the reader will ride a fantastic trip across time, accompanied by those who have left their mark in music, movies, sports and fashion. On this trip he will discover the secret essence of glamour, the cars' significance to celebrities and the role played in the creation of idols

Chris Moore is the undisputed king of catwalk photography. His six-decade career includes images of all the iconic catwalk shows because he was at them all. This is the ultimate and only edit of Moore’s work throughout his career and covering the changing face of the catwalk.

Covering each of the decades images are accompanied with essays by award-winning fashion critic Alexander Fury, based on extensive interviews with Moore, exploring Moore’s career along with key catwalk moments.

From John Galliano’s graduation to Alexander McQueen’s final show, supermodels to showstoppers, Alaïa to Vivienne Westwood and more, Catwalking presents the definitive catwalk highlights captured by the man who has seen and shot it all.

About the authors:

Alexander Fury is an award-winning fashion journalist and critic. He was the first menswear critic at US Vogue.com, chief fashion correspondent at T: The New York Times Style Magazine and fashion editor at the Independent newspapers.

Chris Moore has been at the forefront of fashion photography since the 1950s and founded Catwalking.com, the first online archive of catwalk photography. Over his career he has worked with every leading national newspaper in the UK and is a long-standing contributor to The Sunday Times, the Financial Times and Grazia magazine, and was an important contributor to the International Herald Tribune. He received lifetime achievement awards for his contribution to fashion from the British Fashion Council and Graduate Fashion Week, and received honorary doctorate awards from the University of the Arts London and Northumbria University.

Accompanying a major international exhibition, Coming into Fashion features over 200 photographs by 86 of the great fashion photographers of the last 100 years at the outset of their distinguished careers.

Fashion photographs – glamorous, provocative, beautiful, accomplished, magical – have always been associated with some of the most famous names in the history of photography, such as Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn, Helmut Newton and Mario Testino.

Edward Steichen took what were probably the first fashion photographs in 1911 and since then the most distinguished practitioners have turned fashion photography into an art form. For many it was the editors and art directors at Condé Nast, such as Edna Woolman Chase, Diana Vreeland and Alexander Liberman, who launched their careers.

With unprecedented access to the Condé Nast archives in New York, Paris and Milan, the photography historian Nathalie Herschdorfer has gathered original prints as well as pages from the actual magazines to provide a unique opportunity to see the work of over eighty photographers right at the outset of their careers.

Celebrating twenty years of an agenda-setting powerhouse of contemporary style, design, and popular culture. Celebrated for discovering and promoting new artists, musicians, designers, and filmmakers, Dazed & Confused magazine has been a barometer of popular style and culture since its founding in London in 1991 by Jefferson Hack and the photographer Rankin.

Quickly renowned for its controversial attitude, Dazed represented a new wave in the British style press, bringing together figures from different creative fields and eras to produce extraordinary interviews and develop artwork for the magazine. From David Bowie to Bjork, Harmony Korine to David Lynch, Kate Moss to Stockhausen, and Rankin to Thom Yorke, the roster of the magazine’s subjects and contributing artists alone is a record of the evolution of contemporary pop culture.

Edited by its founders, this daringly illustrated book immortalizes the magazine’s most enduring features, from legendary photoshoots and iconic covers to controversial interviews, and supplements them with outtakes, ephemera from the editors’ offices, original artwork, and contributions from the photographers, designers, and artists behind it all.

From internationally acclaimed photographer Deborah Turbeville comes the first book on her highly influential visionary avant-garde fashion photography. Celebrated for her poetic grace and cinematic vision, Deborah Turbeville has produced fashion tableaux that draw the viewer into her otherworldly environments. A romantic and modernist, Turbeville bridges the boundaries between commercial fashion and fine arts photography. In this remarkable presentation, Turbeville reveals her highly individualistic point of view of fashion photography and the stories behind her photographs.

This first retrospective presentation of Turbeville's fashion photography was selected by the artist herself. In addition, she has designed the evocative layouts to create yet another masterwork. The presentation includes Turbeville's most famous photographs, among them the controversial Bathhouse series of 1975 for American Vogue with disturbingly isolated figures and her Woman in the Woods series of 1977 for Italian Vogue showing psychologically charged emotions, along with her numerous photography campaigns for labels like Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, Yamamoto, Ungaro, and Commes des Garçons, as well as commissions for Chanel and work that has never been seen before. Her most current project for Casa Vogue--Italian nobility dressed in special couture outfits--evokes Turbeville's vision of everlasting beauty.

About the Author

Deborah Turbeville, a fashion editor turned photographer, was a fashion editor for Mademoiselle in 1966. A portfolio of some very stylized photographs she did for Saks Fifth Avenue was her first big breakthrough into the fashion photography world. Subsequently, her work first appeared in Vogue in the 1970s. Since then she has been a dominant figure in contemporary photography. Turbeville has authored many books, including Unseen Versailles, Wallflower, Studio St. Petersburg, Past Imperfect 1978-1997, and Casa No Name. Her work continues to be exhibited around the world and is published regularly in many international magazines.

Belgian photographer Marc Lagrange has quickly gained a reputation as one of the most original and talented erotic photographers around.

Taking a distinctive approach to setting voluptuous scenes, Lagrange meticulously composes timeless settings-with each location and prop carefully chosen to enhance the romantic and revealing mood.

Building trust and chemistry with his models, Lagrange is daring but never crosses into mere titillation. The tension is palpable and a sense of mystery pervades each elaborate vignette.

Combining the glamour of classic Hollywood with the sensibility of an Old Master painting, all his alluring heroines seem at ease and approachable-yet just tantalizingly out of reach.

About the Author: 

Belgian photographer Marc Lagrange was one of the most original and talented portrait and nude photographers in the world. In his distinct way, he meticulously composed opulent and timeless settings to create his voluptuous scenes. His otherworldly images have met with critical acclaim, and are collected and exhibited in all corners of the globe.