Мода, гламур

Вступ до новаторської роботи Гі Бурдена (1928–91), великого новатора в галузі модної фотографії

Гі Бурден народився в Парижі в 1928 році та отримав свою першу фотографічну підготовку під час проходження військової служби в Сенегалі в 1948 році. Його фотографії вперше були представлені в Парижі в 1952 році, каталог цієї виставки містив вступ Мана Рея, а він почав працювати для французького Vogue в 1954 році.

Натхненний сюрреалізмом Мана Рея, Бурден відмовився від описової ролі фотографії на користь дослідження здатності цього засобу до розбіжностей. Поряд з деякими американськими фотографами, зокрема Едвардом Вестоном, Бурден усвідомлював зацікавленість формальною досконалістю та надзвичайно високою обробкою, що стало його власною метою, ідеально адаптованою до оманливої вишуканості модних образів, ландшафту, в якому він розвивав свої ідеї понад тридцять років.

У французькому Vogue Бурден вимагав і отримував унікальний редакційний контроль, і, що дивовижно, він поширив його на свого головного клієнта в рекламі, взуттєву компанію Charles Jourdan, яка вперше замовила йому роботу в 1960-х роках. Підхід Бурдена до кампаній відображав суттєві зміни в рекламі цього періоду. Бурден відмовився від «продуктової зйомки» на користь атмосферних, часто сюрреалістичних картин та натяків на наратив. Бурден був не єдиним, хто демістифікаціював об'єкт, але він був найрадикальнішим у своєму підході.

Вплив образів Гі Бурдена як на комерційну, так і на художню фотографію продовжує резонувати й сьогодні. Бурден вніс радикальні зміни як у стиль, так і в значення комерційних зображень. Його модні зйомки загадкові, гіпнотичні, сюрреалістичні, розкриваючи справжню та тривожну природу бажання. Він показує, що в контексті моди рідко нас приваблює продукт. Саме образ – ретельно поставлена розповідь про сексуальні фантазії, прагнення недосяжного, натяк на небезпеку – стимулює споживче бажання.

- Вступ до новаторської роботи Гі Бурдена (1928–91), великого новатора в галузі фешн-фотографії
- Високий гламур та спокусливі, часто сюрреалістичні роботи Бурдена революціонізували жанр фешн-фотографії
- Вступне есе Елісон Джинджерас пропонує свіжий погляд на життя та творчість Бурдена, включаючи його значний вплив на світ комерційної та художньої фотографії
- Документує розвиток фотографії Бурдена через хронологічну послідовність з 55 зображень
- Представляє менш відомі та раніше неопубліковані зображення поряд із відомими класичними роботами, такими як його кампанії для Шарля Журдана та Dior, а також його роботи для французького Vogue

Про автора:

Елісон Джинджерас — міжнародна кураторка та письменниця, яка мешкає в Парижі. Вона обіймала посаду куратора виставок та колекцій сучасного мистецтва в Центрі Помпіду, Париж (1999–2004), а також була членом кураторської команди Музею Соломона Р. Гуггенхайма, Нью-Йорк, з 1995 по 1999 рік. Вона входить до редакційної ради журналу Tate.Etc. та написала десятки текстів для каталогів виставок та есе про сучасних художників.

Whether the incredible pieces of haute couture were designed by Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Lacroix, Elie Saab, Philip Treacy, or Valentino, their beauty is preserved in the gorgeous images captured with a large-format camera using Polaroid material by Cathleen Naundorf and collected in this book. Her well-honed technique, inspired by her mentor Horst P. Horst, which combines instant film’s distinctive colors and shadow with the artist’s remarkable instinct, results in photographs that resemble paintings - haunting, muted, and raw. Not only are they a feast for fashion-hungry eyes, but they are also a testament to the talents of this young artist who has forged a formidable reputation in the fashion world. Featuring stunning couture images, this book presents renowned fashion photographer Cathleen Naundorf’s work with Polaroid photography from the past six years..

Instant Newton. A collection of Helmut Newton's test Polaroids

Polaroids occupy a special place in the hearts of many photo enthusiasts who remember a time when "instant photography" meant one-of-a-kind prints that developed within minutes of clicking the shutter. What was once a crucial tool for photographers to test their shots before shooting on film has now become obsolete in the face of digital photography. Luckily for us, legendary photographer Helmut Newton saved his test Polaroids, allowing a privileged and rare chance to see the tests from a selection of his greatest shoots over a period of decades, including many from the TASCHEN titles SUMO, A Gun for Hire, and Work. Selected by his widow, June Newton, from over 300 photos featured at the 2011 exhibition "Helmut Newton Polaroids" at the Museum für Fotografie in Berlin, this collection captures the magic of Helmut Newton photo shoots as only Polaroids can.

The photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He first achieved international fame in the 1970's while working principally for French Vogue, and his celebrity and influence grew over the decades. Newton preferred to shoot in streets or interiors, rather than studios. Controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the Grand Prix national de la photographie; in 1992 the German government awarded him Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz for services to German culture, and he was appointed Officier des Arts, Lettres et Sciences by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed Commandeur de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture at the time. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, his images remain as distinctive, seductive and original as ever.

Shooting Beauties: the fashion photography of Helmut Newton

"Carte Blanche" for the commissioned works between art and commerce

Helmut Newton did not distinguish compositionally or stylistically between his magazine work and assignments for commercial clients. He ironically referred to himself as “a gun for hire.” That was also the title of June Newton's legendary book about his commercial photography, which is now available in a new edition revised by the Helmut Newton Foundation.

"Some people's photography is an art. Mine is not. If they happen to be exhibited in a gallery or a museum, that's fine. But that's not why I do them. I'm a gun for hire," Helmut Newton told Newsweek in 2004. This prosaic proclamation from one of the 20th century's most celebrated photographers may be perceived as shocking. Still it firmly positions Newton as the no-frills image-maker that he was. His work is so powerful and striking, that it defies categorization. In refusing to call his work "art," Newton leaves us free to do so. Judging from the amount of museum and gallery shows that have featured his work, it is clear that the option has been widely exercised.

A Gun for Hire brings together a selection of Newton's fashion catalog work from the early 1960s to 2003 including work for BiBA (the first fashion catalog in 1962), Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, Thierry Mugler, Blumarine, Villeroy & Boch and Absolut Vodka, as well as his last editorial photographs for US and Italian Vogue — encompassing the body of work he made as a "gun for hire."

With an introduction by Matthias Harder and statements by Pierre Bergé, Tom Ford, Josephine Hart, June Newton, and Anna Wintour.

Client list: BiBA, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, Thierry Mugler, Blumarine, Italian Vogue, US Vogue, German Vogue, Villeroy & Boch, Bikini Calendar for Sportsmagazin, Absolut Vodka

About the photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970`s while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades, his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios, for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l`Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.

Spanning more than five decades, the work of Helmut Newton (1920–2004) defies categorization. His photographic oeuvre is not only unique, but virtually unparalleled in scope, reaching millions through magazines like Vogue and Elle. Helmut Newton. Legacy showcases highlights and rediscovered images from one of the most published bodies of work in photography. A genuine visionary, this book celebrates Newton’s lasting influence on visual art to this day.

A Lasting Legacy. Helmut Newton’s prolific body of work

Virtually unparalleled in scope and spanning more than five decades, the photography of visionary Helmut Newton (1920–2004) reached millions through publication in magazines like Vogue and Elle. His oeuvre transcended genres, bringing elegance, style, and voyeurism to fashion, portrait, and glamour photography through a body of work that remains as inimitable as it is unrivaled. Having mastered the art of fashion photography early in his career, Newton’s shoots invariably went beyond standard practice, blurring the lines between reality and illusion. Newton’s clear aesthetic pervades all areas of his work, particularly fashion, portraiture, and nude photography. Women take center stage – with subjects such as Catherine Deneuve, Liz Taylor, and Charlotte Rampling. Moving beyond traditional narrative approaches, Newton’s fashion photography is imbued not only with luxurious elegance and subtle seduction, but also cultural references and a surprising sense of humor.

During the 1990s, Newton shot for the German, American, Italian, French, and Russian editions of Vogue, primarily in and around Monte Carlo where he was living from 1981 onwards. Transforming locations like his own garage into starkly contrasting or particularly minimalist theatrical stages, Newton would often portray the eccentric lives of the beautiful and rich, full of eroticism and elegance, in unconventional scenarios. He made use of and simultaneously questioned visual clichés, at times tinged with self-irony or mockery, but always full of empathy.

Helmut Newton. Legacy, which accompanies an international exhibition tour of Newton’s work, showcases highlights from one of the most published bodies of work in photography, including numerous rediscovered images. A prolific image maker and genuine visionary, this book celebrates Newton’s lasting influence on modern photography and visual art to this day.

The exhibition HELMUT NEWTON. LEGACY will be on view at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Jebensstraße 2, 10623 Berlin from October 31, 2021 to May 22, 2022.

The photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) was one of the most influential photographers of all time. He first achieved international fame in the 1970s while working principally for French Vogue, where he became celebrated for his controversial scenarios. Most striking was his ability to make a throughly planned photograph seem fresh and dynamic. His many titles and awards included Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

The editor and author:

Matthias Harder studied Art History, Classical Archaeology and Philosophy in Kiel and Berlin. He is a member of the German Society of Photography and an advisory council member of the European Month of Photography. Head curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin from 2004, and also its director from 2019, he has written numerous articles for books and exhibition catalogues.

The contributing author:

Philippe Garner is an expert in 20th-century photography, design, and decorative art. He has written numerous essays and books, from studies of the lives of designer Émile Gallé and photographers Cecil Beaton and John Cowan, to his Sixties Design for TASCHEN. A former director of Christie’s, he has also curated shows for museums in London, Paris, and Tokyo.

20 Years of SUMO. The Helmut Newton SUMO in XL, revised by June Newton, with a making-of booklet

The Helmut Newton SUMO was a titanic book that towered above anything previously attempted. Twenty years later, we celebrate the legacy of this publishing venture in an XL edition, the result of a project conceived by Helmut Newton and revised by his wife June. Gathering 464 images and a new booklet that takes us through the making of the SUMO, it’s a spectacular tribute to the larger-than-life photographer.

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) always showed a healthy disdain for the easy or predictable, so it’s no surprise that the SUMO was an irresistible project. The idea of a book the size of a private exhibition, with spectacular images, reproduced to state-of-the-art origination and printing standards, emerged from an open, experimental dialogue between photographer and publisher. With the SUMO weighing in — boxed and shrink-wrapped — at 35.4 kg (just under 80 pounds), Newton created a landmark book that stood head and shoulders above anything previously attempted, both in terms of conceptual extravagance and technical specifications.

Published in an edition of 10,000 signed and numbered copies, the SUMO sold out soon after publication and quickly multiplied its value. It now features in numerous collections around the world, including New York’s Museum of Modern Art. The legendary copy number one, signed by more than 100 of the book’s featured celebrities, broke the record for the most expensive book published in the 20th century, sold at an auction in Berlin on April 6, 2000, for 620,000 German marks — about 317,000 euros.

Now, this XL edition celebrates 20 years of SUMO, the result of a project conceived by Helmut Newton some years ago. Revised by his wife June, the volume gathers 464 images and a new booklet that takes us through the making-of this publishing venture — a spectacular tribute to the larger-than-life Helmut Newton, now in a friendly format.

Images © The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography

The photographer

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) was one of the most influential photographers of all time. He first achieved international fame in the 1970s while working principally for French Vogue, and became celebrated for his controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions in street or interior settings, rather than studios. His many titles and awards included Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

The editor

June Newton, née Browne, was born in Melbourne, Australia, in 1923. As a young woman she was passionately interested in the theater, and worked as an actress under the name June Brunell, receiving the Erik Kuttner Award in 1956. She married the photographer Helmut Newton in Melbourne in 1948 and became a photographer herself in 1970, changing her name once again to Alice Springs. Her work has been featured in numerous exhibitions and publications, including Vanity Fair, Interview, Elle, and Vogue. Her many famous subjects include William S. Burroughs, Catherine Deneuve, Graham Greene, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Mapplethorpe, Yves Saint Laurent, and Nicole Kidman.

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Первое издание книги "Сумо", напечатанное десятитысячным тиражом, было распродано вскоре после выхода из печати. Каждый экземпляр был пронумерован и нес автограф автора. Формат соответствовал названию - 50 х 70 см, что при 464 страничном объеме (389 фотографий) вылилось более чем 35 кг веса. Каждый фолиант комплектовался специальным дизайнерским столиком, от Филиппа Старка.

Неудивительно, что сейчас эти книги, ставшие экспонатами коллекций по всему миру, включая Нью-Йоркский Музей Современного Искусства, многократно возросли в цене, а первая копия, подписанная более чем сотней знаменитостей, получила статус самой дорогой книги ХХ века - 6 апреля 2000 года она была продана на аукционе в Берлине за 620 000 немецких марок - примерно 430 000 американских долларов.

Данное переиздание всего в два раза скромнее размерами, но многократно ценой!

Let the ladies shine. From Newton's formative years to his rise to the top

Taken between the mid-1960s and early 1980s, this selection of Newton fashion editorials - one of the first books he ever published - is accompanied by journal entry-style texts by Newton providing anecdotes and describing the circumstances of each shoot. On every page is evidence of Newton‘s groundbreaking vision that transformed fashion photography - an influence that can still be seen today in the pages of the greatest fashion magazines.

Herb Ritts: L.A. Style traces the life and career of the iconic Californian photographer through a compelling selection of renowned, as well as previously unpublished, photographs and two insightful essays.

Herb Ritts (1952-2002) was a Los Angeles-based photographer who established an international reputation for distinctive images of fashion models, nudes, and celebrity portraits.

The definitive book on the life of the legendary photographer Herb Ritts, with never-before-seen images and interviews with his closest confidants.

At the time of his death in 2002, Herb Ritts was among the most celebrated photographers in celebrity portraiture, fashion, and music videos. During a career that spanned nearly thirty years, he was virtually in a league of his own in terms of style and productivity.

Ritts was Hollywood royalty, as were his closest friends and the subjects he photographed.

The Golden Hour reveals for the first time the personal aspects of Ritts’s world, work, and legacy. The book includes many never-before-seen photographs and scores of interviews from business associates, curators, staff, lovers, and family, such as Cindy Crawford, Elton John, Anna Wintour, Madonna, Calvin Klein, and Christopher Buckley (Ritts’s college roommate).

The book includes images from Ritts’s personal archive - behind the scenes at photo shoots, parties, travels, intimate portraits, and moments with friends - along with notes and contact sheets that show how ideas became his best-known iconic images.

Herb Ritts (1952-2002) was a Los Angeles-based photographer who established an international reputation for distinctive images of fashion models, nudes, and celebrity portraits.

‘Glorious … the definitive account of how heels came to be at the centre of style photography … this is one book that’s both NSFW and set for pride of place on the coffee table’ – GQ

High Heels is an odyssey through images of beauty, fetish and seduction – a mixture of whimsy, allure and luxury

Lavishly illustrated with a vivid selection of images from key contemporary photographers such as Guy Bourdin, Juergen Teller, Marilyn Minter, Tim Walker, David LaChapelle, Miles Aldridge and Robert Mapplethorpe, this book explores art, fashion and fetish in the cult of high heels stalking down fashion show runways and along city streets everywhere.

click for a list of the photographers

Hundreds of compelling and extremely frank photographs are punctuated by essays and, most notably, interviews with two deities of shoe design, Manolo Blahník and Nicholas Kirkwood.

The introductory text by Ivan Vartanian explores the image of the fetishized high heel as a vehicle for discussing fetishes within photography in general. Among the other topics explored are ideas of aesthetics and the industry forces behind high heel design; the recent technological developments responsible for shoes’ creatively extreme forms; and high heels, gender and representation in film.

About the Authors

Ivan Vartanian is an author, editor and the founder of Goliga Books, Inc
James Crump is senior curator of photography at the Cincinnati Art Museum.
Tim Blanks is an editor-at-large for Style.com
Philip Delamore is Director of the Fashion Digital Studio at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts
Stella Bruzzi is Professor of Film and Television Studies at the University of Warwick

Hunger: The Book is a look back over the ten issues and five years of Hunger Magazine, launched by photographer Rankin in 2011. The biannual magazine was born from Rankin’s desire to celebrate the most creative and provocative voices in culture and fashion. The book highlights the magazine’s finest moments, editorials and celebrity portraits, as well as taking a behind-the-scenes look that includes never-before-published images, film stills, original sketches and tell-all anecdotes.

 - The 10th issue annual book on the magazine, a visually beautiful totem of fashion, design, culture, music, film, and art
 - Hunger’s finest editorials and celebrity portraits, all topped off with shoot anecdotes and stories from the Rankin team
 - A journey of the whole editorial journey, with unseen images, behind-the-scenes photographs, film stills, original sketches and brainstorms
 - Hunger: Rankin’s “biggest endeavour by miles”

About the Author:

RANKIN was born in 1966 in the Scottish town of Paisley, near Glasgow. After studying photography at Barnfield College in Luton, England, and the London College of Printing, he and a partner launched the monthly magazine Dazed and Confused in 1991. The first issue of his quarterly fashion magazine Rank followed in late 2000. With Hunger and the accompanying HUNGERTV.com website, he reached another milestone in the worlds of fashion, photography, and beauty. Rankin also generated a lot of buzz with his charity campaigns, his work on Germany’s Next Top Model, his documentaries for the BBC, and his attention-grabbing fashion photography.

Frank. Sammie. Paul. Andy. Twiggy. Jack. Elizabeth. Elvis. Jim. Marlene. John. Priscilla. Yoko. Ginger. Janis. Mick. Fred. Salvador. Cher. Audrey.

Very few celebrities are so iconic that their first name is all that’s needed to immediately recognise them. One photographer has captured every one of these icons – and more besides – on film. He goes by the name of Oscar Abolafia.

You can call him Oscar.

About the Author:

Oscar Abolafia (1935 - 2020) was an American photographer known for his outstanding photojournalism of the celebrities that made the 1960s and 70s truly extraordinary. At a young age, William Vandivert, one of the founders of Magnum Photos, took him on as an assistant and showed him the ropes about technical and lighting skills. Abolafia's work made the pages of world-famous magazines such as People Magazine, Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar. Over a span of 50 years of work in the field of photography, he was able to build personal and intimate relationships with the most enduring stars of our age, such as the Kennedys, Liz Taylor, Elvis Presley and Frank Sinatra, to name but a few.

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Пролистать книгу Icons by Oscar

Frank. Sammie. Paul. Andy. Twiggy. Jack. Elizabeth. Elvis. Jim. Marlene. John. Priscilla. Yoko. Ginger. Janis. Mick. Fred. Salvador. Cher. Audrey.

Very few celebrities are so iconic that their first name is all that’s needed to immediately recognise them. One photographer has captured every one of these icons – and more besides – on film. He goes by the name of Oscar Abolafia.

You can call him Oscar.

About the Author:

Oscar Abolafia (1935 - 2020) was an American photographer known for his outstanding photojournalism of the celebrities that made the 1960s and 70s truly extraordinary. At a young age, William Vandivert, one of the founders of Magnum Photos, took him on as an assistant and showed him the ropes about technical and lighting skills. Abolafia's work made the pages of world-famous magazines such as People Magazine, Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar. Over a span of 50 years of work in the field of photography, he was able to build personal and intimate relationships with the most enduring stars of our age, such as the Kennedys, Liz Taylor, Elvis Presley and Frank Sinatra, to name but a few.

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Пролистать книгу Icons by Oscar: XL edition

Simply being the son or daughter of someone famous does not guarantee success, and in order to step out of the shadow of your well-known dad, you need to muster up more than just good genes. Nevertheless, some celebrity fathers are so inspirational that they entice their brood to choose very similar career paths. This book celebrates the most famous father-son and father-daughter combinations in the world of sport, politics, entertainment, business, science, art and literature.

Two artists, one vision. The enigmatic and genre-defying work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

"It is typical of the photographic art of van Lamsweerde and Matadin that they urge their image-making to de-stabilise the pristine surfaces expected of consumer culture; to this end, they make use, in turn, of the Gothic, inscrutability, androgyny, comedy, eroticism, surrealism, fantasy, montage, cinema, replication, image manipulation, Pop art, fetishism and art historical nuance." — Michael Bracewell

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin’s work has graced the walls and pages of some of the world’s finest galleries and fashion magazines, and if it is surprising that their photographs easily float between these worlds, it is by virtue of their ease in creating imagery that seeks homes in both culturally elite and mainstream outlets. For some of their photographs, such as their portrait of Björk or campaign for Givenchy, van Lamsweerde and Matadin have worked in collaboration with the art directors M/M (Paris), who have also designed this retrospective that looks back at "pretty much everything" that the photographers have been working on for over two decades and that has brought them to the forefront in the fields of both art and fashion.

This standard TASCHEN edition — an affordable version adapted from the limited edition — comes with a sheet of stickers so you can personalize your cover!

“This wondrous retrospective presents over two decades of witty, glamorous, and subversive images by Dutch photography duo van Lamsweerde and Matadin…the book will take pride of place in the collections of any fan of fashion and art photography.”
— Publisher’s Weekly, New York

“… 26 years of bold, inventive editorial and fashion work…like their subjects, the pictures are playful and dramatic in subtle ways and more memorable for it.”
— Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles

“Truly a collection for art historians to indulge... a piece of collectable and rare art in itself.”
— Dreaminggenius.com

“An indispensable work.”
— Glamour, Paris

“This wondrous retrospective presents over two decades of witty, glamorous, and subversive images by Dutch photography duo van Lamsweerde and Matadin…the book will take pride of place in the collections of any fan of fashion and art photography.”
— Publisher’s Weekly, New York