Книги по ювелирному искусству

Illustrations: 198 col

This lavishly illustrated book presents outstanding examples of one-of-a kind jewellery from the 1940s to the present drawn from the collection of the Museum of Arts & Design in New York. The 288 pages guide the reader through a fascinating diversity of materials, technique and approaches that make contemporary jewellery visually exciting and intellectually stimulating. No longer dependent on gold and gemstones, these creations demonstrate that commonplace aluminium, rubber, glass, paper, thumbtacks, and even salvaged gun triggers can be made into dazzling jewellery.

The international nature of today's jewellery is fully represented with established luminaries as well as emerging artists in the field from the United States, Europe, Asia and Australia including Gijs Bakker, Robert Ebendorf, Hermann Jünger, Sam Kramer, Otto Künzli, Linda MacNeil, Margaret DePatta, Bruno Martinazzi, Giò Pomodoro, Wendy Ramshaw, Art Smith, Kiff Slemmons, David Watkins, and Anna Maria Zanella.

The book contains a foreword by Holly Hotchner, Director of the Museum of Arts & Design; essay by Ursula Ilse-Neuman, Jewellery Curator of the Museum of Arts & Design, surveying major trends in contemporary jewellery over the past 75 years; and over 200 full-colour illustrations of works from the Museum's Permanent Collection.

Ursula Ilse-Neuman is Jewellery Curator at the Museum of Arts & Design, New York. She joined the Museum in 1992 and has curated numerous exhibitions in all media. Ms. Ilse-Neuman is the author of numerous publications and has juried many competitions and lectured widely both in the United States and abroad. She is currently a Ph.D. candidate at the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture. She is a member of the Editorial Board of Directors of Metalsmith magazine.

Drawing is an essential part of any creative process and it remains the most efficient tool for communicating a concept or an image. This book features a varied selection of the work of leading jewellery designers, as revealed through their original illustrations and working drawings, plus colour photographs of the finished pieces

Jewellery sets off beauty and reveals wealth. Moreover, jewellery had a magical function in traditional societies because it attracted blessings and warded off evil. Women were given most of their jewellery when they married. They wore it until their children had grown up. Then it was kept until their daughters had need of its magical properties. So Oriental vernacular jewellery was handed down from generation to generation. If a piece was too worn, it was melted down and the silver used to recreate a piece of the same type. Thus the memories of millennia were preserved in jewellery of this kind.

It came to a break in the mid-20th century. In many parts of the Near East, the traditional silver jewellery began to be replaced by gold jewellery that was often industrially manufactured. The upshot was that much of what makes this collection so unusual has been irredeemably lost in the countries where the jewellery was once made. It is to the everlasting credit of Dr. Bir as a collector that these pieces have survived, albeit far from the lands where they were made, to attest to the infinite variety and beauty of Oriental craftsmanship. In this book, readers follow the jewellery on an imaginary journey: from Turkey and “oriental Europe” across the Mediterranean to north-western Africa and the Sahara to Ethiopia. From there the journey continues through Yemen via India and on to Thailand and the Roof of the World. Down the Indus Valley to Afghanistan. Back again through the mountains and across Central Asia on the Silk Road to the West. From Turkmenistan to the Caspian Sea and from there to the Caucasus. Through eastern Turkey, Syria and Palestine back to the Mediterranean. Born in Freiburg i. Breisgau in 1929, the collector Ümit Bir was the son of a Turkish physician and a native of Freiburg. He grew up in Izmir. After studying medicine in Istanbul, he trained as a specialist in Berlin and worked in Wolfsburg from 1958. His passion for collecting began in 1960 on a trip through north-east Africa. One hundred and eighty more trips throughout the Near East would follow.

The Dr. Bir Collection comprising more than 3,000 pieces of jewellery is on loan to the Museum für Völkerkunde Leipzig. It is one of the largest private collections of oriental jewellery in existence. A selection of pieces from it are published here for the first time.

This book rewrites the history of jewellery in the age of Victoria. The ‘age of Victoria’ is taken in its widest sense to encompass jewellery made throughout Europe and America, displayed at the great international exhibitions and distributed through foreign trade, illustrated publications and a burgeoning tourist industry. Throughout, links with other disciplines will provide both the specialist and the non- specialist with the information to understand how jewellery permeated all walks and conditions of life in the 19th century.

The focus of the book is on the attitudes of owners to their jewellery and the symbolic weight that it was expected to carry. Rather than concentrating on the major figures at the top end of the jewellery trade, it is oriented towards the social aspects of owning, wearing and displaying jewellery. For example, novelists used jewellery to add a moral or metaphorical dimension to a character, while jewels depicted in portraits often carried multiple messages which could be immediately decoded by the viewer. The achievements of science, the fascination with nature and the Victorian sense of humour are all embodied in jewellery. Topics discussed in depth include the importance of jewellery in the life of the Queen herself, jewellery and dress, the language of jewellery, the cult of novelty, the importance of nationalism in the revival of historical styles, and the contribution of archaeological discoveries. The volume is sumptuously illustrated with contemporary reportage, photographs and portraits as well as examples of jewellery from the British Museum and other collections.

This book provides the best study of Art and Crafts style jewelry and metalwork to date. Devised late in the 19th century as a reaction to industrialized manufacturing, the Arts and Crafts movement stressed naturalistic materials, designs and techniques. The book begins with the British movement and traces the roots of this "new art" including its characteristics, materials, motifs, influences and makers' marks. Biographical sketches are provided for over 240 of the most influential British designers/jewelers/metalworkers, with discussions of the guilds, schools and commercial firms. In over 700 photographs, nearly 400 in glorious color, the success of these designs to provide fascinating and beautiful objects is demonstrated.

She was a creature of contrasts: there was the Chanel of rococo mirrors and playful jewellery; but also the Chanel of the tailored suit, of the utmost restraint; of classicism à la française.
The jewellery that Chanel created presents one of the least-known aspects of her work: in complement to her ‘costume jewellery’, she invented jewellery that was unparalleled in luxury and refinement and unfettered in its imagination.

Using illustrations and documents, many of them previously unpublished, and based on archival research and interviews with Chanel’s colleagues and other witnesses of her life and career, this book presents her passion for fabulous jewels and improbable marvels.

Gabrielle Chanel was a creature of contrasts: there was Mademoiselle Chanel of the sumptuous baroque, of rococo mirrors and dazzling jewelry, a playful, unrestrained Coco; but there was also Gabrielle Chanel of the little black dress, of the severe cut, of rigour in black and white.

Out of this dialogue between ostentation and austerity, the fine jewelry that she created all her life was unparalleled in its insistence on luxury and refinement, drawing inspiration from tradition without ever being the slave of everyday formulas or market values.

Based on archival research and interviews with Chanel’s colleagues and witnesses to her life and career, this book is the first to set in relief her passion for fabulous jewels, for exceptional stones, for improbable marvels, that should be considered ‘with innocence, with naivety, like enjoying an apple tree in blossom along the road as we speed by in a car’.

The glamour and excitement of the world of haute jewellery is beautifully explored in Jewelry International.

About the Author

Tourbillon International has published six volumes of Grand Complications and is an expert in the field.

Easy-to-follow instructions and carefully executed illustrations make it possible for anyone to learn the basics of an age-old art form and fashion beautiful, lasting objects. Author discusses tools and techniques, use of gems and enamels, wire inlay, casting, and other topics. 72 line illustrations and diagrams.Easy-to-follow instructions and carefully executed illustrations make it possible for anyone to learn the basics of an age-old art form and fashion beautiful, lasting objects. Author discusses tools and techniques, use of gems and enamels, wire inlay, casting, and other topics. 72 line illustrations and diagrams.

This sumptuous book, now updated to mark the opening of the spectacular new Jewellery Gallery at the V&A in May 2008, features exquisite early medieval pieces and superb examples of jewellery design from the Renaissance up to the present. Exceptional photographs illustrate not only rare precious stones but elaborate techniques such as chasing, enamelling and cameo. Famous jewels are featured alongside rings, brooches, pendants, earrings and tiaras, all revealing the beauty and technical virtuosity of their maker’s art.

A definitive work of reference
Features images, techniques, materials and producers of the jewels made in Spain and in the New World, in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries
Includes images of many jewels that have never before been published

In effect, this book, which features numerous pictures, has remained an essential work of reference for the study of Spanish jewellery during the reign of the Hapsburg and Bourbon Dynasties, extending as far as the rule of Charles IV. However, in spite of its importance, the work is only now being published in English.

Forty years have passed since Dr. Muller completed the book and, in all this time, her monographic work has lost none of its relevance, continuing to be an excellent basic guide for the study of a fundamental aspect of Spanish art. However, it is quite impossible to find Jewels in Spain: 1500-1800 today. For this reason, Ediciones El Viso has undertaken the task of carefully republishing the work, as revised and updated by the author, featuring new pictures based on photographs taken expressly for the purpose at hand and reproduced in full colour.

The history of the world -- triumphs and tragedies, breakthroughs and breakups -- through the iconic jewels that have inspired and influenced since the dawn of time.

From ancient treasures to royal weddings, great heists to the red carpet, this book is a stunning, surprising, and glittering tour of historic turning points and gem-driven drama, delving into the passions and predilections of some of the world's most interesting and extraordinary people.

Starting in the era of Cleopatra and continuing through to contemporary jewelry statements by Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, and Meghan Markle, Stellene Volandes tells the stories of how shiny stones and precious metals have determined empires, inspired expeditions and great crime, and been the communicator of status and ruin since ancient times. Each moment is placed in historic and relevant context, with Volandes drawing engaging parallels between Napoleon's gift to Marie Louise at the birth of their son and the modern push present or the insouciant story behind the brooch Jackie Kennedy famously wore to a 1962 State Dinner with the Shah of Iran. Illustrated with a mix of archival images and gorgeous photography of the jewels, this book is a beautiful, informative, and essential read for history lovers, fashion, celebrity, and pop-culture followers, as well as passionate jewel hounds.

About the Author:

Stellene Volandes is an internationally renowned expert in jewelry. In addition to writing about jewelry for Town & Country (where she is also editor in chief), she hosts a series at the 92nd Street Y on jewels and their history. Her first book, Jeweler, was published by Rizzoli in 2016.

Cet ouvrage d’initiation est à nouveau disponible. Il détaille les techniques de base de l’orfèvrerie, les procédés et les matériaux. Il reprend également les connaissances historiques, esthétiques et pratiques qui permettent aux amateurs ou aux professionnels de nourrir un socle de savoirs indispensables à la pratique de leur artCet ouvrage d’initiation est à nouveau disponible. Il détaille les techniques de base de l’orfèvrerie, les procédés et les matériaux. Il reprend également les connaissances historiques, esthétiques et pratiques qui permettent aux amateurs ou aux professionnels de nourrir un socle de savoirs indispensables à la pratique de leur art