Книги по ювелирному искусству

Vintage Jewellery explores the key designers and jewellery houses, technical developments and cultural influences that shaped jewellery design over 120 years, and shows you how to collect and wear vintage pieces.

Foreword by Gerda Flöckinger

Vintage Jewellery recounts 120 years of history, including Lalique's Art Nouveau enamelling at the turn of the twentieth century, Cartier's gemstones, Christian Dior's mid-century costume pieces and Harry Winston's diamonds.

Accompanied by archive images, fashion photography and specially commissioned photographs of period pieces, the most collectible and beautiful bracelets, necklaces, rings and brooches are showcased, including Elizabeth Taylor's peregrina pearl and Wallis Simpson's Cartier panther bracelet. The book explores the key designers and jewellery houses, technical developments and cultural influences that shaped jewellery design and shows you how to collect and wear vintage pieces.

About the Author:

Caroline Cox is professor of cultural history at University of the Arts London. She is a leading fashion authority whose work explores the relationship between fashion, beauty and culture. A lecturer and broadcaster, she is also a cultural trends advisor at Vidal Sassoon. Caroline's books on fashion history and theory have been published internationally and include Vintage Shoes and Vintage Jewellery.

An exquisite volume documenting Cartier's most recent bespoke high jewelry collection, destined for eminent clients and collectors.

Devoted to the new High Jewelry and precious objects collection created by Cartier, this book celebrates nature's vitality, sensuality, and aesthetic force. Documents from the House's archives show that flora and fauna have been a major source of inspiration at Cartier since the very beginning.

The representations are numerous, and the interpretations complement each other: figurative, as realistic as possible; stylized, between an outline or suggestion; and all the way to abstraction, with the disconcerting visual play.

The jeweler's imagination and virtuosity transform precious materials and stones into splendid ensembles. For this groundbreaking new collection, the artists who create the designs go even farther than the known natural universe to visit unexplored territories: in addition to the Houses's emblematic species, such as panthers and crocodiles, we discover original creations, inspired, for example, by succulents and peacocks, or even imaginary creatures like reinvented chimeras.

In this richly illustrated volume, the new Cartier High Jewelry collection is accompanied by text that highlights the privileged relationship that exists between contemporary art and nature. Artists, fascinated by the power and the mystery of the environment that surrounds us, move beyond traditional art arenas to confront the immensity of landscapes or to work directly with materials from nature. The natural world is a marvel that never ceases to inspire and seduce.

About the Authors:

François Chaille is a writer. Passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry and watchmaking, he has published fifteen works with Flammarion, including Magnitude, Coloratura,The Cartier Collection: Timepieces, Audemars Piguet: Master Watchmaker Since 1875, and Girard Perregaux.
Hélène Kelmachter is an art historian and exhibition curator. She worked with the Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain for more than fifteen years. She was cultural attaché at the French Embassy in Tokyo (2007-2012) and in Buenos Aires (2014-2018). She has curated numerous exhibitions in France, Japan, China, and Argentina devoted to contemporary art and artisanal craft.
 

A visual catalog for jewellery, bead artists, and crafters for hundreds of ideas at their fingertips to inspire their own projects.

1,000 Jewelry Inspirations is a stunning showcase of contemporary jewellery pieces that will feed the creative appetites of crafters and jewellery makers everywhere. Become inspired by this feast of colour, sparkle, texture, dimension, and clever, creative use of materials. From simple and elegant to beautiful and elaborate “bling” styles, over 1,000 full-colour images will be at your fingertips to inspire your own creative projects. An exploration of jewellery-making techniques will help even inexperienced jewellery makers on their way to making beautiful jewellery.

What you’ll find:
Beads and Baubles
Paper and Mixed Media
Polymer and Precious Metal Clay
Vintage and Repurposed
Fibers and Fabric
Wire and Metal

A visual catalog for jewelry, bead artists, and crafters for hundreds of ideas at their fingertips to inspire their own projects.

1,000 Jewelry Inspirations is a stunning showcase of contemporary jewelry pieces that will feed the creative appetites of crafters and jewelry makers everywhere. Become inspired by this feast of color, sparkle, texture, dimension, and clever, creative use of materials. From simple and elegant to beautiful and elaborate “bling”styles, over 1,000 full-color images will be at your fingertips to inspire your own creative projects. An exploration of jewelry-making techniques will help even inexperienced jewelry makers on their way to making beautiful jewelry.

What you’ll find:
Beads and Baubles
Paper and Mixed Media
Polymer and Precious Metal Clay
Vintage and Repurposed
Fibers and Fabric
Wire and Metal

The most comprehensive and detailed history and sourcebook of twentieth-century jewellery ever published

John Peacock charts the development of every kind and style of twentieth-century jewellery for both women and men: earrings, necklaces, pendants, bracelets, and bangles, brooches, rings, buckles and clasps, dress clips, hair and hat ornaments, watches, cufflinks, tiepins. . . Precious jewellery, costume and novelty jewellery are all included, and every style from Art Nouveau to Pop Art and retro.

John Peacock’s research, using not only paintings and photographs but also the jewellery itself, has allowed him to reproduce in meticulous detail a host of representative pieces from every year of the century. All the great twentieth-century designers and houses are featured – among them Lalique, Cartier, Chaumet, Georg Jensen, Fulco di Verdura, Schlumberger, Miriam Haskell, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. – as well as the mass-produced jewellery their designs inspired.

The pictures are accompanied by full descriptions, including details of materials, stones, designs, fastenings, mounts and surrounds.

An invaluable reference section includes a time chart summarizing the development of jewellery through the century, biographies of the leading international jewellers, and a concise bibliography.

This encyclopaedic survey is destined to become the unrivalled reference work in its field, indispensable to any jewellery enthusiast, designer, student or collector.

About the Author:

John Peacock has worked as a fashion and costume designer and lecturer in fashion history. He was for several years senior costume designer for BBC Television, and is the author of many books on costume.

This is the ultimate illustrated guide to the most exquisite vanity cases from the nineteenth century onward; an unmissable opportunity for lovers of jewelry and fashion.

This elegant and richly illustrated volume, featuring a slipcase and gilded page edges, showcases a rare private collection of vanity cases and includes an exquisite array of luxury accessories from the nineteenth century to the twentieth century. These vanity cases, carefully designed and mostly handmade, became covetable accessories with the advent of beauty products.

The vanity case, the ultimate jeweled fashion accessory, was designed and made mostly in Paris by skilled designers and craftsmen who understood that the fashionable modern woman needed a practical solution for carrying lipstick, powder compact, cigarettes, lighter, theater tickets, keys, and other small paraphernalia. Tiny, made of precious metals, including platinum and gold, with inlays of lacquer, gemstones, mother-of-pearl, jade, or enamel, these reticules took hundreds of hours of patient craftsmanship to complete.

About the Authors:

François Curiel is Chairman of Christie's Europe and heads Christie's global Luxury division. David Snowdon is Hon. Chairman for Christie's in Europe, the Middle East, Russia and India. Lyne Kaddoura is an independent jewelry specialist and advisor, as well as Senior Consultant with Christie's. Pierre Rainero is the Image, Style and Heritage Director of Cartier. Catherine Cariou is the former heritage director at Van Cleef & Arpels. Laurence Mouillefarine is a journalist, art market expert, and author of books on jewelry. Diana Scarisbrick is an art historian specializing in jewelry; she is the author of numerous publications and curator of many international jewelry exhibitions. Vivienne Becker is a London-based jewelry historian, journalist, and author of more than twenty books on the history of jewelry design and contemporary jewelry.

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Пролистать книгу A Vanity Affair: L'art du nécessaire на сайте издательства.

460 illustrations

This showcase of new jewellery offers a global view of exciting work from nearly 200 cutting-edge jewellery designers. It highlights the diverse forms that contemporary jewellery takes, from simple wedding or commitment rings, to elaborate body jewellery that blurs the boundaries between art and adornment, to catwalk jewellery specially commissioned for couture collections. Adorn includes pieces made using the latest industrial technologies and processes, as well as more traditional methods and materials. Because most jewellers’ work crosses themes, categories and styles, and is produced using a variety of techniques, the chapters are arranged by type of jewellery and each designer might feature in several chapters. In this way, from headpiece to toe ring, the book takes the reader on a visual journey around the body and provides a rich source of inspiration for anyone looking to design, commission or buy their own jewellery.

Amanda Mansell graduated from the Royal College of Art, London with an MA in Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery. She has been a designer–maker for 10 years, working from her workshop in Hatton Garden, London’s famous jewellery quarter. She manages the jewellery archives at the Royal College of Art and is the owner and director of a contemporary jewellery gallery in London.

Cartier’s peerless designers have continued to amaze decade after decade - from the 1930s into the twenty-first century - with their fanciful and trendsetting creations. Figurative pieces comprise a significant portion of the house’s collection - a veritable menagerie that includes bejeweled roosters and cobras cohabitating with tigers and angelfish. In addition to whimsical fauna and resplendent flora, Cartier crafted items of precisely mastered abstraction, from virtuoso work in gold to chromatic harmonies ranging from subtle to bold. The second half of the twentieth century was to provide an inexhaustible repertoire of forms for decorative objects and finery. Close-ups of hundreds of Cartier pieces are supplemented with archival drawings, as well as society and fashion photographs. This volume chronicles the rise of a pioneering firm and illustrates the power of constantly renewed styles based on a fine balance between imagination and know-how, creativity and experience. Fashion writer Nadine Coleno situates the emergence of Cartier’s creations in their historical and stylistic context. This volume offers an eloquent tribute to the multiple talents that have transformed the name of a dynasty of jewelers into the universal gold standard in jewelry design.

The firm of Tiffany & Co. has long been regarded as America's premier maker and retailer of fine luxury goods. This is especially true in the case of jewellery, an area in which the company emerged as an arbiter of taste and style by the mid-19th century. Charles Lewis Tiffany, one of the founders of the firm, was astutely aware of the desire of newly emerged elites for high-style jewels that would rival those owned by European aristocrats. A savy entrepreneur, Tiffany would eventually purchase part of the French Crown jewels for his American clients, selling them along with outstanding diamonds, precious gem-set jewellery, and Swiss-made watches. All would bear the company's mark and by the end of the 19th century, the brand was firmly established.

While Tiffany & Co. lavishly met the luxury needs of America's well-to-do, they also passionately developed an American style, promoting American materials and motifs. Their displays at the International Expositions met with great success, further increasing their reputation in the world-wide market. They were also quick to adapt technological advances, including the raised diamond mount ("Tiffany setting"), new diamond-cutting techniques, and a system of hallmarking. Charles Lewis Tiffany's successors in the 20th century continued to create extraordinary adornments designed by outstanding artists such as Louis Comfort Tiffany, Jean Schlumberger, Angela Cummings, Elsa Peretti, and Paloma Picasso. This book, through a series of original essays, pays tribute to the firm's enduring ingenuity.

Inspired by Chinese art and lore, Western art and music, and the natural world, Anna Hu’s imaginative, exquisitely designed and executed one-of-a kind pieces have catapulted her to the top of the jewelry firmament in a few short years. Her firm, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, has boutiques in New York and Shanghai, and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris has honoured her with an exhibition of her work.

This luxurious volume celebrates the completion of Anna Hu’s first 100 works, or ‘Opus 1’, as she calls the collection. Her ambitious goal is to produce an opus every five years until she has completed ten, for a total of 999 pieces, and no one who has seen her jewelry has any doubt that she will fulfil her dream.

The texts address various aspects of Anna Hu’s work, including the relationship between her jewelry and fashion, the impact that her passionate study of the cello has had on her jewelry design, and the remarkable gemstones that inspired her to make some of her most virtuosic pieces.

The pièces de résistance of the book are the pieces themselves, many of them exquisitely photographed by master jewelry photographer David Behl. Some are as intricate as Chinese embroidery, others are as ethereal as butterflies, and still others are reinterpretations of works of music and art, from Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata and Puccini’s Turandot to Monet’s Water Lilies and Van Gogh’s Irises.

In all, a Symphony of Jewels.

A dazzling look at the recent jewelry of Anna Hu, one of today’s most exciting designers

In this, the second volume of a projected multivolume series, jewelry designer Anna Hu presents a carefully curated selection of exceptional pieces created over the past five years. Born in Taiwan, Hu was trained as a concert cellist. After receiving degrees in jewelry design at New York’s FIT, the history of decorative arts at Parsons, and arts administration at Columbia University, she apprenticed at Christie’s jewelry department, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston. In 2007, she opened Anna Hu Haute Joallerie, specializing in one-of-a-kind jewelry executed by French ateliers using the rarest stones in the world. In Symphony of Jewels: Opus 2, renowned jewelry historian Janet Zapata surveys the impressive trajectory of Hu’s career and looks to her future as one of the brightest diamonds in the world of contemporary fine jewelry design.

About the Author:

Sarah Davis is a jewelry historian, author, and editor for the American Society of Jewelry Historians. She was editor and a co-author of Jeweled Splendors of the Art Deco Era: The Prince and Princess Sadruddin Aga Khan Collection. Janet Zapata, a historian of jewelry and decorative arts, is the author or coauthor of numerous books, including Cartier in the 20th Century, The Jewels and Enamels of Louis Comfort Tiffany, and Seaman Schepps. François Curiel is chairman, Europe and Asia, Christie’s.

Art as Jewellery is a visually stunning introduction to jewellery made by the titans of twentieth and twenty-first century art.

From Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, Alexander Calder and Pablo Picasso, through to Anish Kapoor, Damien Hirst and Grayson Perry, the great figures of modern art have all turned both thought and talent to jewellery. Often, they have eschewed the traditional jeweller’s preoccupation with material value and provenance, more concerned with the conceptual or aesthetic significance of their work. As is fitting for a book that covers a range of artists, every image is as striking as it is unique. By using contemporary pictures, Art as Jewellery develops a chronological timeline of jewellery presentation. Its pages are home to a stunning variety of design sketches and photographs. Some were shot by renowned 20th-century photographers, such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, while others have been buried in archives for decades, unseen since the ’60s. In contrast, modern works have been given model treatment by top photographer Alexander English, making this book a glamorous blend of new and classic jewellery art.

Author Louisa Guinness, collector and gallery owner, provides insightful commentary on each artist and their work. Her input can be felt on a personal level; having worked alongside many of these artists as they developed their jewellery, she is in the perfect position to reveal the personal stories behind these pieces’ creation. Full-page colour photographs and sketches, some showing the artist at work in the studio, or with their muse, accompany each profile. Louisa also explores each artist in the context of the genre’s evolution, looking at the key exhibitions that have shaped the interest of artists and collectors.

This book will be of interest to jewellery and art lovers alike. Contents: Introduction What is Art as Jewellery Foreword Artists (more than 50 are covered, including Alexander Calder, Salvador Dalì, Man ray, Pablo Picasso, Louise Nevelson, Max Ernst and Corneille) Exhibitions

_Includes an introduction by Vivienne Becker, an award-winning jewellery writer, and a contribution from Julia Peyton Jones, previous director of the Serpentine Gallery, London
_A marvellous array of images, from archived photographs and sketches that have not been seen since the '60s, and the work of 20th-century photographers such as Ugo Mulas and Antonia Mulas, to modern shoots by Alexander English

The end of the First World War left much of Europe faced with an entirely new political and social situation: absolute monarchy was consigned to the dustbin of history and essays in democracy were the order of the day. The changed conditions and the new way of life associated with them required new forms of expression in -music, dance, architecture and painting – and of course also in design. There France had led the field since the ground-breaking 1925 Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. Germany had not even been invited to that world exhibition – the effects of the Great War that had only ended a few years previously were still being felt.

All great jewellery-designers were strongly committed to the Art Déco style, which featured astringent sophistication in design and choice of materials: jewellers such as Cartier, Boucheron, René Lalique, Georges Fouquet and designers such as Jean Desprès and René Boivin. From about 1928, this canon of forms occurs both in the work of Naum Slutzky at the Bauhaus and the German jewellery industry as represented by Theodor Fahrner Nachf. Gustav Brändle in Pforzheim and Jakob Bengel in Idar-Oberstein.

A magnificent show of this short-lived yet far-reaching -stylistic intermezzo between the two world wars: from the most luxurious and elaborate jewels to costume jewellery made of Bakelite and Galalite. With a contribution on 1920s and 1930s fashion.

A geometric language of forms, influenced by Cubism and the aesthetic of the machine, coloured plastic and chromium are synonymous with the Art Déco costume jewellery which was so popular in 1920s and 1930s Europe.

Formerly classified by specialists as ‘French jewellery’, these Art Déco jewellery objects were actually made at the Jakob Bengel Chain and Bijouterie Wares Factory, founded in Idar-Oberstein in 1873!

The jewellery produced by Bengel between 1931 and 1938 is distinguished by that of other makers by extraordinarily powerful innovation and a high degree of individuality. A mix of materials consisting of the coloured plastic Galalith and chromium-plated metal is handled with a playfully light touch. Bengel jewellery was exported worldwide.

More than two hundred and fifty pieces of Bengel jewellery are superbly reproduced and described in this monograph on the firm. In addition, the book surveys over one hundred and thirty years of Bengel history and gives insights into sample books that have survived from the years 1924 to 1939.

Over ten thousand drawings in colour furnish conclusive source material on designers and design practice during those years.

Dieses Referenzwerk bietet einen faszinierenden Überblick zum Art Déco-Schmuck! Sonderausgabe der vergriffenen Publikation zum Sonderpreis!Eine geometrische Formensprache, beeinflusst von Kubismus und Maschinenästhetik, farbiger Kunststoff und Chrom sind die Synonyme für Art Déco-Modeschmuck, der in den 1920er und 1930er Jahren in Europa sehr beliebt war. Viele bisher von der Fachwelt als französischer Schmuck eingestufte Art Déco-Schmuckobjekte sind in der 1873 gegründeten Ketten- und Bijouteriewarenfabrik Jakob Bengel in Idar-Oberstein entstanden! Die Bengel-Schmuckproduktion der Jahre 1931 bis 1938 zeichnet sich im Vergleich mit anderen Herstellern durch eine außerordentliche Innovationskraft und hohe Individualität aus. Mit spielerischer Leichtigkeit wird mit einem Materialmix aus farbigem Kunststoff Galalith und verchromtem Metall umgegangen. Bengel-Schmuck wurde in die ganze Welt exportiert. In dieser Firmen-Monografie werden über 250 Bengel-Schmuckstücke brilliant abgebildet und beschrieben; darüber hinaus gibt das Buch einen Überblick über die 130-jährige Firmengeschichte und auch Einblicke in die erhaltenen Musterbücher aus den Jahren 1924 bis 1939. Anhand von über 10.000 farbigen Zeichnungen lassen sich Rückschlüsse auf Entwerfer und die Entwurfspraxis der damaligen Zeit ziehen.