Книги з дизайну ювелірних виробів

Around 1900 the Pforzheim jewellery-making industry, which had been established since 1767, underwent an upturn to flourish as never before. The participation of Pforzheim businesses in the 1900 Paris World Exhibition and the thorough assimilation of a variety of influences from abroad – including the figurative French Art Nouveau style – ensured that Pforzheim Art Nouveau jewellery developed confidently towards aesthetic autonomy.

Collaboration between the jewellery industry and professors at the Pforzheim School for the Applied Arts as well as sharp eyes for new developments outside the jewellery capital shaped Pforzheim jewellery creations around 1900. Other fecund sources of colla-boration were the Darmstadt Mathildenhöhe artists and Wiener Werkstätte. The author has discovered hitherto unpublished contemporary source material and has been able to draw on hundreds of extant original pieces of jewellery – brooches, pendants, collars, hatpins and hair combs that are now in museums, private collections and on the art market – to make a choice selection for this book. Thus a living picture emerges of the diverse formal and technical -possibilities that gave rise to the design, craftsmanship and industrial manufacture characteristic of Pforzheim Art Nouveau jewellery.

Many important designers worked for the Pforzheim jewellery industry around 1900. This is the first wide-ranging survey – informative on both artists and firms and lavishly illustrated.
Artists (a selection): Franz Böres | Max Gradl | Patriz Huber | Georg Kleemann | Ferdinand Morawe | Otto Prutscher | Emil Riester | Fritz Wolber
Firms (a selection): Theodor Fahrner | Gebr. Falk | Hermann & Speck | Kollmar & Jourdan | Lauer & Wiedmann | Levinger & Bissinger | Victor -Mayer | Meyle & Mayer | A. Odenwald | Rodi & Wienenberger | F. Zerrenner

Jewelry was one of the purest, and most successful, expressions of Art Nouveau style, using sensuous organic forms to create a vast range of objects of exceptional beauty and inventiveness. Leading expert Vivienne Becker provides an account of the movement that spread through Europe and the United States, acquiring different decorative characteristics in England, Germany, Austria, Belgium, Russia and Spain.

For the collector, comprehensive biographies on more than 300 designers are included, followed by a guide to identification, with over 200 makers’ marks and signatures. Each part of the book is richly illustrated with plate sections of dramatic illustrations, from the sinuous elegance of the French masters - Vever, Lalique and Fouquet - to the linear, geometric designs of the Viennese - Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser.

456 illustrations, 156 in colour, 214 makers' marks

The bulk of this handbook is step-by-step case studies, comprehensively explained and illustrated with photographs. Each chapter demonstrates and guides the reader through procedures for making a bangle or bracelet using a particular technique, approach or skill. Topics covered include: wax-work (casting), chain making, wire work, found objects,
piercing, stone-setting.

Designed to appeal to both beginners and practising jewellers, there is an introductory chapter on basic techniques, covering the fundamentals of jewellery-making, complete with detailed explanations and photographs. Each chapter includes a generous garnish of relevant 'tips and tricks' - useful hints from the author and other experienced jewellers.

For 500 years, the world's greatest makers of costume jewelry have hidden, anonymous, in the heart of Europe: Gablonz, Bohemia. This groundbreaking, beautiful book exposes the jewels, craftsmanship, technological development, and history of Bohemia. Almost 400 gorgeous color photographs illustrate the area's artistry, its most significant designers and manufacturers and their contributions to the art of jewelry, button, and bead making. Bohemian glass dynasties lasted for centuries, until the middle of the 20th century, when the entire community of German-stock craftsmen was expelled from the area in the turbulence of World War II. Though Gablonz will forever feel the loss of these great craftsmen, their artistry has been meticulously researched and documented by Sibylle Jargstorf for this book.

Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior Joaillerie, presents her collection of Fine Jewellery on the Belladone Island – an imaginary island conducive to the growth of Belladonna, a toxic plant whose essence was used as eye drops by Italian women during the Renaissance to dilate their pupils – dilated pupils being one of the signs of sexual arousal. The plant kingdom inspired the names of the jewels in their collection, plants which were part of the imaginary ancestral herbarium and reminiscent of the magic formulas of bewitching elixirs – Reina Magnifica Sangria, Poisono Misterius Spinella, Fleuro Poisonus Spinella, Paradisea Coeur Secretus, Carnivora Fluora Eternita, Dracula Spinella Devorus, Grani Opalia Devorus, Carnivo Papidevorus, Ancolia Veneinosa Pop. Each one of the 17 pieces describes the world in its own fashion, recounts a story, which secretly imbibes itself with that of the person wearing it.

In this collection, the imagination of Victoire de Castellane, freed from the shackles of convention, unleashes itself and proves its audacity. The first part of the book, designed to represent the extravagant nature of this collection as accurately as possible, is generously illustrated by Guido Mocafico’s photographs. The second part also shows the various phases involved in unveiling this collection, starting from the building of a lotus-like structure in the virtual sphere on Second Life, until the actual presentation in the hall Nymphéas de Monet at the musée de l’Orangerie.

A fully illustrated book featuring unique jewellery masterpieces, paying attention to the creators, designers and manufacturers

This book starts from those periods in history (18th and 19th centuries) when the concept of costume jewellery, which is considered to be something that puts the finishing touches on fashion, did not as yet exist. The custom in the past was to make copies of real jewels with precious or semi-precious materials; moreover, great effort was made to invent material to replace precious stones and gold (strass, marcasite, pinchbeck, pomponne, etc.)

The volume ends with an attempt to define the styles of the decades close to the contemporary period - as yet never examined - with particular interest in the '60s,'70s,'80s and '90s and in the names of creators, designers and manufacturers who are still unknown to us.

Contents:
The Different Types of Costume Jewellery: Definitions
Imitation Jewellery, Bijoux de Couture, Costume Jewellery, Fashion Jewellery.

Major Technological Innovations
Paste/Rhinestone, Gold Alloys and Similar, Steel Jewellery, The Brilliant Cut, Marcasite Stones, The Mechanised Production of Costume Jewellery, Berlin Iron Ornaments, Electro-galvanic Gold, Plating, Hair Jewellery, Daniel Swarovski and the Mechanised Finishing of Rhinestones, Ivory, Tortoiseshell, Amber, Coral, Mother-of-pearl, Rock Crystal, Horn.

Styles
Victorian Jewellery, Edwardian Costume Jewellery, The Costume Jewellery of Avant-garde Artistic Movements, Art Deco Costume Jewellery, Costume Jewellery of the 1930s, Costume Jewellery of the 1940s (Cocktail style), Costume Jewellery of the 1950s, Costume Jewellery of the 1960s, Costume Jewellery of the 1970s, Costume Jewellery of the 1980s, Costume Jewellery of the 1990s.

About the Author:

Deanna Farneti Cera, an international expert on European and American costume jewellery, lives and works in Milan. She is an author, a leading researcher in the history of jewellery in fashion, and has curated exhibitions for several museums worldwide. In 2006, she opened the gallery Ornamento d'Autore in Milan, whose programmes include historical exhibitions on the history of costume jewellery and others on international trends in the field

Tells the fabulous story of the founder of this famous and respected Parisian jeweller as well as the tales of passion, crime and intrigue of his famous and infamous client.

The House of Boucheron represents one of the great Parisian jewellers of the last 150 years. Founder, Frederic Boucheron opened his first shop in 1858. Many of his clients were not women of society, but femmes fatales of the demi-monde. Nonetheless, his skill with precious stones and his absolute discretion made him a favourite of both courtesans and princes. In turn, his business flourished allowing him to move to the famous Place Vendome in 1892. Having been given unprecedented access to the Boucheron vaults, the book's author, Vincent Meylan, made some remarkable discoveries. Perhaps the most significant was a register labelled 'Book of Stones'. It is a record of all the precious stones that have entered Boucheron's stock; diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and pearls are all indexed according to weight, price and, most importantly, who bought and sold them. Meylan also uncovered almost 200 order books and 150 letters. It is these 'Secret Archives' that have enabled him to reveal the fascinating history of Boucheron and his extraordinary, colourful clientele.

From the 'Ladies of Sin' to the 'King and Queens of the World' Meylan reveals the riveting stories behind the jewels that the Parisian jeweller sold; the desires they aroused, the madness they provoked, the love they formalised, and the deaths they caused. Boucheron's clients included Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, La Belle Otero, King Farouk of Egypt, and the Shah of Iran. The demands of these wealthy individuals led to the sensational orders that elevated Boucheron to the highest level of creativity. This captivating and revealing publication includes original design sketches, black and white archive images and sumptuous colour photographs of the exquisite Boucheron creations, including Tsarina Alexandra's pearl and diamond coronet and The Queen Mother's tiara.

Vincent Meylan is responsible for the 'history and royalty' pages in Point de Vue. He is also a specialist in precious stones and in 'haute joaillerie'. He is the author of several biographies and of Queens' Jewels

Whenever one watches the Us Secretary of State Madeleine Albright on TV, one cannot but notice her extravagant jewellery. Few people realise, however, that the restrained beauty of this jewellery is often invested with an unmistakable message: After the Iraqi press portrayed her as a she met with Iraqi officials. During the difficult Middle East peace talks, a dove of peace adorned her shoulder and watched over the proceedings. Mrs Albright employs her diplomacy, a weapon barred to men. 61 artists from 16 countries responded to the challenge suggested by Helen Drutt from Philadelphia, to create highly individual brooches themed with Albright's strategic use of adornment. The results are a glittering show of jewellery covering a wide spectrum of shapes, materials and meaning. Each artist interpreted the challenge in a different way. While some boldly emphasized thier political meassage, others choose a more oblique presentation.

A fascinating survey into Buccellati style: a blend of past with present, of form, function and design lie at the heart of the work of a family firm which has become synonymous with gold and silversmithing over the past century. The exhibition (October 2000 - February 2001), held at the prestigious Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of Natural History, in Washington D.C., showcases over fifty masterpieces (objets d’art, jewels and silver objects) characterized by their elegant design, extraordinary craftmanship and luxury materials (gems and precious metals). A blend of past with present, of form, function and design lie at the heart of the work of a family firm which has become synonymous with gold and silversmithing over the past century.

Bulgari is a lavishly illustrated exploration of Italy's greatest jeweler. Since its beginnings in Rome in 1881 - and throughout its years of expansion throughout the world - the Bulgari firm has been at the forefront of jewelry design, launching many trends and revivals. Here, copious photographs and archival pictures trace the development of the Bulgari style, a distinctive look that has captivated royalty, movie stars and others for more than a century.

The book showcases a range of Bulgari's stunning innovations, such as its easy-to-wear everyday jewels made with precious gems, the powerful modular units combined in repeating patterns, its trademark watches and unique Vintage Collection, a private cache of Bulgari period jewels, watches and objets d'art. It also describes the creative inspiration that led the firm to its famous juxtaposition of unusual materials, from mixing colourful semiprecious stones with priceless diamonds and mounting ancient coins in gold jewelry to incorporating substances - such as steel and white porcelain - that had never before been used in couture jewelry. These and other fashions have sparked countless imitations by other jewelers, copies that can never rival the glamour and flair of the Bulgari originals.

This elegant volume will delight anyone in the field of fashion and jewelry design, as well as the many enthusiastic collectors of Bulgari jewels.

A dazzlingly illustrated history of Bulgari jewelry, this engaging book tells the story of the world’s most famous family of jewelers, goldsmiths, and silversmiths, and the pieces that made their name.

New photography and archival pictures trace the progression of the Bulgari style, a distinctive look that has captivated royalty and movie stars, among other celebrities, for more than a century. Since its start in Rome in 1884 - and throughout the years of expansion when shops opened from Los Angeles to New York and Madrid to Hong Kong - the Bulgari firm has launched influential trends and revivals in jewelry design. Bulgari is famous for the mixing of colorful semiprecious stones with diamonds, the mounting of ancient coins in gold jewelry, and the creation of easy-to-wear everyday pieces made with precious gems. These and other Bulgari fashions have sparked countless imitations by other jewelers, imitations that can never rival the polish and flair of the original pieces.

Initially published in 1996 as the first-ever book on Bulgari, this elegant volume delighted Bulgari enthusiasts and those interested in fashion and jewelry design. The need for an updated history of Italy’s most renowned jeweler was prompted by newly discovered historical material, recently launched Bulgari collections, and a great demand for the book.

This revised edition, featuring several new chapters, presents the achievements and developments of Bulgari in the past decade, including design trends in jewelry and watches. Here also are new lines of luxury fashion accessories as well as the distinctive architecture and interior design of Bulgari stores and hotels. It is these latest accomplishments, exquisitely portrayed in this new edition, which have made Bulgari one of the most important luxury brands of the new millennium.

With an encyclopedic spirit and characteristic flair for color, Bvlgari reconstructs the myth of Eden in a dream of fine jewelry that becomes a manifesto.

Every year, Bvlgari launches a high jewelry collection. The most recent theme is the Garden of Eden, a subject that celebrates nature as a limitless source of inspiration, vitality, and energy — reflected in the wonderful craftsmanship of a Roman brand famous for its colored gems and refined and skillful design.

This extraordinary illustrated book contains exclusive sketches and photographs of the jewelry from the new collection, and artistic references to the iconographic themes of nature and the garden with creative images by contemporary photographers. Poetry on the same topic from various eras and originating from all over the world — from Verlaine to Vita Sackville-West and Emily Dickinson, Federico García Lorca to Khwāju Kermani — also accompanies the images.

In photography by the Korean master Cho Gi-Seok, the unique pieces of the Eden The Garden of Wonders collection, featuring emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and spinals in every color, flourishes in a magical and luxuriant world, a triumph of plants, flowers, and thriving nature.

About the Author:

Simone Marchetti is director of Vanity Fair Italia, where he oversees the European editions of Vanity Fair in France, Spain, and Italy. As a fashion journalist he stands out for his prose, insight, and street style. Lucia Silvestri is the jewelry creative director at Bvlgari. She began her career in the Bvlgari gemological department at the age of eighteen, and the Bvlgari brothers quickly intuited her great potential. Cho Gi-Seok is a fashion and art photographer who was born in Seoul, South Korea, and has his own fashion brand, KUSIKOHC.

Bvlgari’s new high jewelry collection pays tribute to the pioneering visions of indomitable women who blazed their own paths, broke boundaries, or shattered cultural norms.  

In keeping with the inspiration for the jewelry collec-tion, this book is an ode to women, as suggested by the female name “Magnifica.” This launch marks the start of a new chapter in a history filled with energy, impact, and daring creativity, with a collection of outstanding pieces at the height of High Jewelry, creativity, and artisanship, conveyed through exper-tise and craftsmanship.

In a male-dominated world, Bvlgari’s muses have helped forge a new perception of women thanks to their courage, resilience, and talent. Whether they may be artists, art patrons, or intellectuals, they have shared the same ability to think outside the box, reimagining their future in an unapologetic way.

Based on the three pillars of stunning gems, inspiring muses, and the gifted hands of artisans and designers, Bvlgari’s Magnifica book is divided into three sections — Head, Heart, and Hands — and outlines Bvlgari’s new jewelry ecosystem. In addition to gorgeous photographs of jewels, the voices of the contributors to this volume, who are all women, will trace a path of encouragement and provide an example for today’s women to pursue their intuitions and cultivate their talent. 

About the Author:

Tina Leung is a fashion stylist known for her eclectic sense of style. After growing up in Hong Kong and Los Angeles, Leung graduated from Bristol University and spent a year studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Leung returned to Hong Kong, working as a stylist and writer, before launching her personal blog, Tina Loves. Leung has collaborated with luxury brands Valentino, Prada, Chanel, and Loewe, just to name a few. 

Beautifully designed and illustrated, this book is an all-access pass inside the story of the world's most famous family of jewellers. A kaleidoscopic, colourful, dazzlingly illustrated history of Bvlgari jewellery, this engaging book showcases more than 300 objects from the late 19th century to the present days. It is the catalogue of a major travelling exhibition.

The exhibition will start in Rome in 2009 to mark Bvlgari's 125th anniversary and will travel to the main capitals of the world through 2012. The aim of the exhibition and its catalogue is to illustrate Bvlgari's achievements in the world of jewellery and design but also to highlight its unique heritage which has its roots in Classical Greek Antiquity, Ancient Rome, Italian Renaissance and Roman Baroque.

Entertaining and didactical at the same time, this book is the essential complement to any jewellery lovers collection.

About Bvlgari

For over a century, since 1884 Bvlgari has been setting the pace for Italian style in jewellery. A forward-looking, creative spirit which never ceases to draw inspiration from the timeless beauty of Greek and Roman art, while giving it a distinctive contemporary touch. Greek like its founder, Sotirio Bvlgari - and Roman like the culture he embraced.

Rome, Via Condotti: the first store. A meeting place for the aristocracy and the world of culture and cinema. Dolce Vita and Hollywood.

Pure luxury obtained by means of daring combinations, precious materials, purity of design and meticulous attention to detail. In Rome, Paris, London, New York and Los Angeles, as well as in Tokyo and Dubai, Bvlgari is the word for jewellery, excellence and prestige. This is the finest expression for style and beauty.

This stunning volume accompanies a major exhibition surveying the history behind the iconic jewelry company. Over 350 jewels are paired with haute couture from eminent fashion houses.

This sumptuous book celebrates not just the evolution of Bvlgari's style through more than one hundred years, but also its ability to inspire the modern woman through the ages. Jewels from Bvlgari's heritage collection are matched with one hundred haute couture garments of the same time period from the most illustrious fashion houses, including Chanel, Dior, Prada, Versace, Fendi, Pucci, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and more.

The volume also includes exclusive essays by industry experts and noted historians that explore the history of the Bulgari family starting with the founder, Sotirio Bulgari, who immigrated to Italy from the Balkans in the late nineteenth century. The family's close relationships with members of the international elite are also examined. Many of the world's most famous women have been Bvlgari clients, including Ingrid Bergman, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, and Anita Ekberg. Pieces once owned by Elizabeth Taylor are included in the book, and many of the jewels featured have never been previously exhibited.

About the Author:

Lucia Boscaini is the brand and heritage curator for the Bvlgari Marketing Department, where she is in charge of the company's historical assets and works to publicize the 130-year-old brand.
Chiara Ottaviano is the head of Cliomedia Officina, a pioneering Italian company in the field of public history.

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Пролистать книгу Bulgari: The Story, The Dream