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Sartorial strength. Helmut Newton in the leading fashion magazines

Helmut Newton, master of late 20th-century fashion photography, always considered the printed page the most important factor in his work. It was, he explained, in the framework of an editorial or advertising commission, that he found his inspiration and produced his best shots.

Joining the prestigious roster of TASCHEN’s Helmut Newton titles, including Sex & Landscapes, World without Men, and the much-coveted Helmut Newton SUMO, this fresh edition of Pages from the Glossies gathers the most eminent and interesting examples of Helmut Newton’s work for magazines across Europe and the United States. Facsimiles of more than 500 original spreads from the likes of Elle, Amica, and, above all, Vogue follow Newton’s ongoing ability to break the boundaries of his genre and explore the interaction of his unique, daring, pictures with typography and layout.

In lively personal anecdotes alongside the spreads, Newton talks through the inspirations and informal moments behind some of his most memorable images. We follow him scouting models, setting up a shot with the captain of a nuclear submarine, collaborating with Anna Wintour, and negotiating between different cultural attitudes towards the nude.

20 Years of SUMO. The Helmut Newton SUMO in XL, revised by June Newton, with a making-of booklet

The Helmut Newton SUMO was a titanic book that towered above anything previously attempted. Twenty years later, we celebrate the legacy of this publishing venture in an XL edition, the result of a project conceived by Helmut Newton and revised by his wife June. Gathering 464 images and a new booklet that takes us through the making of the SUMO, it’s a spectacular tribute to the larger-than-life photographer.

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) always showed a healthy disdain for the easy or predictable, so it’s no surprise that the SUMO was an irresistible project. The idea of a book the size of a private exhibition, with spectacular images, reproduced to state-of-the-art origination and printing standards, emerged from an open, experimental dialogue between photographer and publisher. With the SUMO weighing in — boxed and shrink-wrapped — at 35.4 kg (just under 80 pounds), Newton created a landmark book that stood head and shoulders above anything previously attempted, both in terms of conceptual extravagance and technical specifications.

Published in an edition of 10,000 signed and numbered copies, the SUMO sold out soon after publication and quickly multiplied its value. It now features in numerous collections around the world, including New York’s Museum of Modern Art. The legendary copy number one, signed by more than 100 of the book’s featured celebrities, broke the record for the most expensive book published in the 20th century, sold at an auction in Berlin on April 6, 2000, for 620,000 German marks — about 317,000 euros.

Now, this XL edition celebrates 20 years of SUMO, the result of a project conceived by Helmut Newton some years ago. Revised by his wife June, the volume gathers 464 images and a new booklet that takes us through the making-of this publishing venture — a spectacular tribute to the larger-than-life Helmut Newton, now in a friendly format.

Images © The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography

The photographer

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) was one of the most influential photographers of all time. He first achieved international fame in the 1970s while working principally for French Vogue, and became celebrated for his controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions in street or interior settings, rather than studios. His many titles and awards included Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

The editor

June Newton, née Browne, was born in Melbourne, Australia, in 1923. As a young woman she was passionately interested in the theater, and worked as an actress under the name June Brunell, receiving the Erik Kuttner Award in 1956. She married the photographer Helmut Newton in Melbourne in 1948 and became a photographer herself in 1970, changing her name once again to Alice Springs. Her work has been featured in numerous exhibitions and publications, including Vanity Fair, Interview, Elle, and Vogue. Her many famous subjects include William S. Burroughs, Catherine Deneuve, Graham Greene, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Mapplethorpe, Yves Saint Laurent, and Nicole Kidman.

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Первое издание книги "Сумо", напечатанное десятитысячным тиражом, было распродано вскоре после выхода из печати. Каждый экземпляр был пронумерован и нес автограф автора. Формат соответствовал названию - 50 х 70 см, что при 464 страничном объеме (389 фотографий) вылилось более чем 35 кг веса. Каждый фолиант комплектовался специальным дизайнерским столиком, от Филиппа Старка.

Неудивительно, что сейчас эти книги, ставшие экспонатами коллекций по всему миру, включая Нью-Йоркский Музей Современного Искусства, многократно возросли в цене, а первая копия, подписанная более чем сотней знаменитостей, получила статус самой дорогой книги ХХ века - 6 апреля 2000 года она была продана на аукционе в Берлине за 620 000 немецких марок - примерно 430 000 американских долларов.

Данное переиздание всего в два раза скромнее размерами, но многократно ценой!

White Women, Helmut Newton's legendary first work, appeared more than twenty years ago. With it's superior mixture of aesthetics, technical perfection and bourgeois decadence it has lost nothing of its potency and attractiveness. Newton's work encompasses a wealth of themes, also embodying facets of the mass-media world of glamour, masquerade and show. Using subtle, yet striking images--like those of Paloma Picasso, Veruschka, Elsa Peretti, Karl Lagerfeld, David Hockney, and Charlotte Rampling--Newton embraces the delicate, natural beauty of the naked female body. White Women is a masterpiece of erotic visual literature.

About the photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970`s while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l`Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.

Agent Provocateur. Top shots from Helmut Newton

Fashion, editorial, and personal photographs meet in this extensive Helmut Newton portfolio, including some of his most striking shots from the ’60s through to his golden heyday. From shadowy streets to hotel boudoir, it’s a showcase of Newton’s suggestive storytelling and unfailing eye for erotic impact.

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) is remembered as one of the most prolific photographers of the 20th century, channeling the sensuality and erotic power of his subjects with panache, precision, and impact. His aesthetic was uniquely his, while at the same time establishing a new way of photographing fashion and glamour.

Joining TASCHEN’s illustrious collection of Helmut Newton titles, including Helmut Newton: Polaroids, Pages from the Glossies, and the spectacular Helmut Newton: SUMO, this fresh edition of Helmut Newton: Work spans an impressive stretch of Newton’s career, including some of his most striking shots from the ’60s through to his golden heyday. From shadowy street to hotel boudoir, it’s a collection that showcases Newton’s suggestive storytelling throughout his fashion, editorial, or personal pictures.

The photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920–2004) was one of the most influential photographers of all time. He first achieved international fame in the 1970s while working principally for French Vogue, and became celebrated for his controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions in street or interior settings, rather than studios. His many titles and awards included Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

The author:

Françoise Marquet established a photographic department at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris in 1981, acquiring the works and organizing retrospectives of Duane Michals, Herbert List, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier, Helmut Newton, Jeanloup Sieff, Jan Saudek, and Manuel Álvarez Bravo. In 1997 she was appointed to the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris.

The editor:

Manfred Heiting is an internationally acknowledged designer, curator, and expert on and collector of photographs and photobooks; he lives in Malibu and Brussels. He is a founding member of the J. Paul Getty Museum Council and since 2016 UCLA Distinguished Lecturer in the Humanities. He is editor and designer of Deutschland im Fotobuch, The Soviet Photobook, and The Japanese Photobook and co-editor and designer of Autopsie: Deutschsprachige Fotobücher 1918–1945.

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Творчество Хельмута Ньютона многогранно и разнообразно. В 1960-е годы оно считалось шокирующим и провокационным, а в наши дни Ньютон снискал репутацию фотографа, способного изображать женщину такой, какая она есть. Это женщина нового тысячелетия, которая принимает собственные решения, а не следует воле других, наслаждается собственным телом и единолично распоряжается им, женщина, уверенная в себе и страстная. Хельмут Ньютон – певец сюрреализма, привнесший в современность дыхание Берлина 1920-х годов. Его фотографии изображают наши тайные страхи и желания, они полны тонкой театральности и изысканного декаданса. Модная фотография, обнаженная натура, портрет – вот три категории, на которые Хельмут Ньютон разделял свои работы. Его съемки для рекламы и модных журналов всегда находились на грани приемлемого для широкой публики и вызывали самые противоречивые реакции: от восхищения до проклятий.

Let the ladies shine. From Newton's formative years to his rise to the top

Taken between the mid-1960s and early 1980s, this selection of Newton fashion editorials - one of the first books he ever published - is accompanied by journal entry-style texts by Newton providing anecdotes and describing the circumstances of each shoot. On every page is evidence of Newton‘s groundbreaking vision that transformed fashion photography - an influence that can still be seen today in the pages of the greatest fashion magazines.

In his monumental nudes of the early 80s, Helmut Newton shocked the world with a new image of women: self-assured, powerfully staged, and closer to the aesthetics of body building than fashion and luxury, Newton’s women flex their muscles in a high-heels “Here we come.” Here this Newton classic comes in a new reprint.

About the photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970`s while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades, his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios, for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l`Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.

Pola Woman is a representative selection of polaroids from over twenty years of Helmut Newton's professional work in the fields of fashion, advertising, and erotic photography.

About the photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970`s while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades, his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios, for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l`Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.

Newton’s collection of portraits from the worlds of film, fashion, politics and culture can be considered a pantheon of VIP’s. But his work is a lot more besides. From his portraits, one can see that he would have most liked to be a Roman paparazzo – as he once admitted. Anyone who had a portrait made by him knew what the result would be, and by the 1980s there were absolutely no ‘beautiful people’ in this world who did not want to be photographed by him! In front of his camera, both men and women peeled off their covers – literally as well as figuratively. His brilliant staged creations celebrate the attractiveness and prominence of his models as well as their vanity and imperfections. Newton’s top-quality work for major fashion journals and elitist art magazines is likewise first-class erotic art. This collection was first published in 1985.

Хельмут Ньютон, один из крупнейших мастеров современной фотографии моды, «жрец эротической светописи», известнейший портретист бомонда, отразивший в своем творчестве многие мифы коллективного бессознательного, он создавал фотографические образы потрясающей силы.
К 80-м годах прошлого века не было ни одного представителя бомонда, который не мечтал бы оказаться перед его объективом.
Данное издание - знаменитая книга Хельмута Ньютона, в которой собраны портреты звезд кино, моды и политики.

About the Photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970`s while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades, his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios, for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l`Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.

Through their inimitable mixture of eroticism, subdued elegance and decadent luxury, Newton’s pictures reflect in the highest aesthetic quality an obsession with human vanity – from female exhibitionism to male voyeurism. With technical perfection, an extremely detailed style and a relentless directness, Newton staged the neverending psychodrama that contrasts glamour with the need for admiration, self-confidence with the desire for self-presentation, and Eros with Thanatos. Private Property was originally a three-part portfolio containing 45 b&w photographs. It includes Newton’s best work from the period 1972-1983 – an exquisite assortment of fashion shots, portraits and erotic motifs which are all based on real location and luxurious lifestyles. The entire sequence of pictures from the Private Property portfolio is included in our book which first appeared in 1989.

About the photographer:

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Born in Berlin, he arrived in Australia in 1940 and married June Brunell (a.k.a. Alice Springs) eight years later. He achieved international fame in the 1970`s while working principally for French Vogue, and over the next three decades, his celebrity and influence continued to grow. Eschewing studios, for the most part, Newton preferred to shoot in the streets or in interiors. His mixture of controversial scenarios, bold lighting, and striking compositions came to form his signature look. In 1990 he was awarded the "Grand Prix National" for photography; in 1992 was awarded by the German government "Das Grosse Verdienstkreuz" for his services to German culture and was appointed "Officer des Arts, Lettres et Sciences" by S.A.S. Princess Caroline of Monaco. In 1996, he was appointed "Commandeur de l`Ordre des Arts et des Lettres" by Philippe Douste-Blazy, the French Minister of Culture. Working and living in close companionship with his wife until his death at 83, through his last click of the shutter he continued to be as distinctive and influential as ever.

Henri Cartier-Bresson as perhaps the greatest photographer of the twentieth century. In a career spanning over sixty years, he used his camera as an impassive and neutral third eye to capture the vagaries of human behaviour and to produce some of the most memorable and compelling photographs ever published.

In this impressive biographical study, Jean-Pierre Montier traces Cartier-Bresson's artistic progression from his early training as a painter and draughtsman; he provides a detailed analysis of his most famous images and discusses the various philosophies that informed his work, notably Zen and Surrealism.

Drawing together a remarkable selection of the paintings, sketches, and photographs, this book attempts a serious evaluation, not just of Cartier-Bresson's photojournalism, but of his oeuvre as a whole.

"Die frühen Photographien" ist ein Klassiker von Henri Cartier-Bresson, der bislang im deutschen Sprachraum noch nicht veröffentlicht wurde. Er versammelt 80 Photographien aus den Jahren 1926 bis 1934, die 1987 im Museum of Modern Art ausgestellt wurden. Nach ersten photographischen Versuchen während seines Studiums der Malerei in Paris widmete sich Henri Cartier-Bresson ab 1930 endgültig und ganz der Photographie. Seit 1932 photographiert er mit seiner Lieblingskamera, der unauffälligen Leica M, deren Optik dem menschlichen Auge entspricht. Viele Aufnahmen sind Straßenszenen aus Paris und anderen französischen Städten. Andere brachte er von seinen Reisen nach Spanien, Italien, Marokko und Mexiko mit. Immer ist in ihnen die aufgewühlte Stimmung zwischen den beiden Weltkriegen spürbar. Daneben finden sich erste Künstlerportraits, die später zu einem seiner großen Sujets werden sollten. Am 18. September eröffnet in der Kunsthalle der Versicherungskammer Bayern in München eine Ausstellung mit diesen frühen Photographien von Henri Cartier-Bresson.

Neugierde und Abenteuerlust lockten den 20jährigen Henri Cartier-Bresson nach Afrika; für Magnum war er in Mexiko, China und Nordamerika unterwegs; Neigung und eine tiefe Seelenverwandtschaft führten ihn nach Indien und Indonesien, wo er mehrere Jahre blieb. Doch der erklärte Weltbürger Henri Cartier-Bresson (1908-2004) kehrte immer wieder nach Europa zurück. Hier machte er seine erste Reise mit der Leica, 1932 durch Spanien und Italien, von der er berühmt gewordene Bilder und seine Berufung zum Photographen mit nach Hause brachte. Hier erlebte - und photographierte - er den Krieg und die Befreiung. Unser Band, den wir aus Anlass einer Ausstellung in der Kunsthalle Erfurt in diesem Herbst in einer Neuauflage anbieten, versammelt die poetischen und zeitgeschichtlich relevanten Bilder, die Cartier-Bresson auf seinen Reisen durch Europa über fast sechzig Jahre hinweg aufgezeichnet hat: Es ergibt sich das sensible Bild eines zerrissenen Kontinents, gesehen durch das Auge eines der bedeutendsten europäischen Photographen.

The 50 most famous iconic photographs by Henri Cartier-Bresso, doyen of picture journalism.

Seit den 30er Jahren des vergangenen Jahrhunderst hat Henri Cartier-Bresson (1908-2004) immer wieder neue - und nach ihm selten erreichte Maßstäbe gesetzt wenn es darum ging, Photojournalismus und Photokunst miteinander zu verbinden. Sein Name, der untrennbar mit der von ihm mitbegründeten legendären Photoagentur Magnum verbunden ist, wurde zum Gütesiegel einer Bildberichterstattung, der künstlerischer Anspruch und humanes Interesse ebensoviel gelten wie der Informations- oder auch Sensationswert einer Photographie. In unserer Serie Meisterwerke bieten wir diesen handlichen Band mit den berühmtesten HCB-Ikonen aus 50 Jahren an. Der begleitende Text stammt vom Meisters selbst: Es ist seine 1952 verfaßte Definition des entscheidenden Augenblicks, die zur theoretischen Grundlage jedes engagierten Photojournalismus werden sollte.

Henri Cartier-Bresson (1908–2004) ist die herausragende Persönlichkeit unter den Photographen des 20. Jahrhunderts. Sein zwischen Journalismus und Kunst oszillierendes Werk umfasst nicht nur sechs Jahrzehnte, in seiner ästhetischen Qualität und geistigen Haltung wirkte es auch stilbildend für alle nachfolgenden Photographengenerationen. Das New Yorker Museum of Modern Art bereitet zur Zeit eine Retrospektive vor, die zum ersten Mal auf die reichen Bestände der Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson in Paris zurückgreifen kann. Aus Tausenden von Abzügen und einer Fülle von Dokumenten zum Leben und Werk des Jahrhundertphotographen stellte Kurator Peter Galassi eine Hommage an Henri Cartier-Bresson zusammen, die ihresgleichen kaum mehr haben wird. 300 Photographien werden gezeigt, eingeteilt in zwölf Werkkapitel, die alle Facetten seines Schaffens erfassen und mit berühmten, aber auch bisher unbekannten Bildern illustrieren. Den begleitenden Katalog, der einen weit ausgreifenden Essay von Peter Galassi und reichhaltiges Informations- und Quellenmaterial enthält, legen wir in deutscher Übersetzung vor.

"Photography is nothing, it's life that interests me." With his ever-present Leica camera, Henri Cartier-Bresson captured the raw and the sweet, the comic and the profound moments of lives that were lost in the grind or relegated to someone else's memory - the coincidental moment at which a reflection in a puddle of water mimics a poster on a nearby wall or when lovers kiss, oblivious to the not-so-pristine world around them. It is the familiar beauty and cruelty of the day-to-day that is so engaging in his photographs: two cosmopolitan woman chat nonchalantly while surrounded by empty lettuce crates; mourners at a funeral stare directly into the camera; postwar Paris awakens in the fog. Cartier-Bresson was the master of the "decisive moment," that fleeting instant for which a picture really is worth a thousand words, which is the essence of photojournalism. In no place is this more exemplified than in his images of Paris. Cartier-Bresson personally selected the more than 130 black-and-white photographs of Paris for this publication. With photographs taken over a period of 50 years, the work is beautifully and generously printed in duotone. The accompanying essays, both short and unobtrusive, are also familiar and personal. One essayist captures the essence of Cartier-Bresson's camera work: "When life calls, he is always there, to assist, or to admire; to rebel, or to say no to exploiters and imposters, and to all those who demean its value."