Книги о моде и фэшн дизайне

A chronicle of the pioneering and subversive brand Parachute and its influence on the evolution of fashion in the 1980s and beyond.

From its beginnings inspired by New Wave subculture to its position as an international fashion sensation, the Parachute brand from Montreal was recognized for its visionary, bold apparel and innovative concept stores.

Avant-garde in attitude and design, Parachute brought together high and low, the establishment and the underground. The clothing was defined by androgynous looks, oversized silhouettes, elevated essentials, and graphic references to past and future, from exaggerated trench coats to “space samurai kimonos.” Together with a considered retail presence, which combined an industrial aesthetic in the stores with exuberant photography campaigns, the brand created a vision for street fashion that is keenly relevant today.

Walker explores the history of the brand through hundreds of images, many never published, including personal photography from the founders of the label alongside striking editorial and campaign imagery. A go-to label for stars like Madonna, Peter Gabriel, and David Bowie, Parachute both encapsulated the exuberance of the 1980s and signaled the future in clothing and retail.

Uniquely designed with ephemera layered over photographs as if in the founders’ own scrapbooks, this is a definitive insight into a highly influential cult 1980s brand, and a key reference for fashion historians and designers alike.

The text for this book is in both English and French.

About the Authors:

Alexis Walker is associate curator of dress, fashion, and textiles at the McCord Stewart Museum in Montreal.

Nicola Pelly is one of the co-founders of Parachute.

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The history of the quintessential Parisian perfumer Guerlain both influenced and was shaped by Parisian life, savoir-faire, and culture.

The house of Guerlain is a Parisian institution. Guerlain aficionados — from royalty and empresses, to celebrities, writers, and artists — have been featured in novels, song lyrics, movies, and artistic creations, all while exemplifying Parisian savoir-faire and luxury. The Guerlain headquarters and laboratory on the rue de Rivoli in the heart of Paris feature a new scent laboratory and a rose garden, intrinsically binding the famous house to the city of light, which it so perfectly captures in each bottle of perfume.

Travelling through two centuries of history at Guerlain, this book highlights the inextricable links between the house and the city: Guerlain changed Parisian life with its cosmetics and perfumes, yet could have existed nowhere else but in Paris. Guerlain’s creations, especially its perfumes, are put into historical and cultural context through a combination of interviews, images, and portraits of the people and products that played a role in the house’s story. This celebration of Guerlain, the quintessential Parisian perfumer, combines fashion, Parisian life and savoir-faire, history, and the essence of beauty.

About the Author:

Laurence Benaim has written many books including Fashion and Versailles (Flammarion, 2018) and Lancel: Parisian Maison since 1876 (2016). She created the style supplement for Le Monde, contributed to Vogue and Marie-Claire, and is an editorial advisor for Le Figaro.

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In the late ’70s, spirited young designer, Perry Ellis introduced a fresh, witty and relaxed new sensibility to American sportswear, initially for women and a few years later, for men. The clothes were easy, oversized, slouchy, but classic at heart and they caused a sensation. Ellis, who once told the New York Times that he "always made a determined effort to do something different," did just that, creating a series of signature looks such as his “dimple” sleeves and single-cabled sweaters that set his clothes apart from everyone else’s. Nearly three decades after his untimely death, the legacy of the designer Ellis is still very much felt : Perry Ellis: An American Original is the first complete monograph to celebrate his exceptional career. 

The beautifully illustrated book showcases Ellis’s designs through a combination of photography and sketches, providing an insightful look at each season of his career, from 1976 to 1986, offering readers unique access to editorial and ad campaign photographs from the archives of brilliant photographer Erica Lennard, with whom Ellis worked almost exclusively.  Included here are ephemera, a treasure trove of drawings, and never-before-published photos from the personal collections of the designer’s friends and family, adding insight to Ellis’s unique aesthetic while solidifying his place as one of the key contemporary designers of American fashion.

About the Author:

Jeffrey Banks is a Coty Award–winning fashion designer of men’s and women’s apparel.  He is the co-author of Tartan: Romancing the Plaid and Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style.  Erica Lennard is an internationally renowned photographer whose books include Secret Gardens of Hollywood and American Writers at Home.  Doria de La Chapelle is a freelance writer who is co-author of Tartan: Romancing the Plaid and Preppy: Cultivating Ivy Style. She has written on fashion, beauty, and style for Mademoiselle and other publications.  Marc Jacobs is the designer for his eponymous fashion label, and his diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs; and he has been Louis Vuitton’s creative director since 1997.

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With pieces drawn from the extensive personal collection of Pharrell Williams, this is a stunning and unprecedented exploration of the “bling” in hip-hop culture and fashion.

Few recording artists have had a greater hand in incorporating the culture of hip-hop into contemporary luxury than Pharrell Williams. Collaborating with Louis Vuitton nearly two decades ago, Pharrell was the first to have his designs integrated into the haute joaillerie of the great maisons. His innovative team-ups continue through to the present day, most memorably with Tiffany and Chanel, and the watchmaker Richard Mille.

The most extravagant of these chains, rings, and pendants — crafted in precious metals and studded with gems — are as much a part of Pharrell’s musical performance as they are of his personal style. His designs, which include one-off pieces such as solid-gold cases for mobile phones and handheld game consoles, have been legendary for featuring iconography of Pharrell’s own brands, Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream.

This book was originally published with two different colored covers. Customers will be shipped either of the colors at random. 

Featured in the book are over 100 pieces, many of which he created in tandem with some of the most recognizable designers in the industry — such as Jacob & Co, Yoon & Verbal, and Lorraine Schwartz. With frequent collaborators such as NIGO® and Tyler the Creator, Pharrell discusses his role in the evolution of hip-hop jewelry, the processes involved in the creation of his one-of-a-kind custom pieces, and the state of connoisseurship in a growing market for the most extravagant of hip-hop collectibles.

About the Authors:

Pharrell is a multiplatinum recording artist and a recipient of the CFDA’s Fashion Icon Award. NIGO® is a fashion designer and musician, the founder of *A Bathing Ape & Human Made. Tyler the Creator is a multiplatinum recording artist and designer.

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The work of one of the most influential and innovative hat designers of this century. Philip Treacy’s career over the last two decades has been prolific and high-profile. A visual delight, this book shares Treacy’s favorite designs in 250 striking photographs, curated by Treacy himself, and showcases his collaborations and personal relationships. Treacy has said, “Every hat I have ever made has begun in my mind as a photograph. I can see it on the model, at the right angle, before I even begin.” Indeed, his hats have been photographed by the most iconic image makers of our time, including Patrick Demarchelier, Richard Avedon, Steven Meisel, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber, and Irving Penn. And his hats have been modeled on equally famous heads, ranging from Grace Jones and Lady Gaga to the Duchesses of Cornwall and Devonshire.  

Since his early friendships with Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen, Treacy’s imaginative designs have been a synthesis of art and fashion, with materials ranging from silk and lace to Plexiglas and leather, trimmed with feathers or Swarovski crystals. Combining luxury and sophistication, his work has helped shape modern fashion. This first, highly personal book is a glamorous tour through Treacy’s world, and documents how a hat can evoke the magic of life and speak to the transformative power of fashion.

About the Authors:

Philip Treacy is the recipient of numerous international fashion awards (he is a five-time winner of the title British Accessory Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards). Marion Hume has been the international fashion editor for The Australian Financial Review since 2006. She contributes to the Financial Times, the Saturday Telegraph Magazine, W, and the New York Times.

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The first monograph on fashion designer Prabal Gurung, packed with stories, design inspiration, and never-before-seen photographs

In February 2017, Prabal Gurung ended his show with a parade of feminist tees featuring phrases like This Is What a Feminist Looks Like, Voices for Choices, and We Will Not Be Silenced. A year later, his collection took inspiration from two female-dominated Asian cultures.

Activism is built into designer Gurung's ethos and the celebration of female empowerment serves as a constant focal point of his designs. He presents femininity with a bite, beauty with substance, and a diverse, inclusive world that is Stronger in Color.

Prabal Gurung offers a window into Gurung s design process, and it is filled with inspiration, mood boards, sketches, runway shots, and photographs of the clothing from the last 10 years. The Prabal Gurung woman is modern, intelligent, elegant, assured, and socially responsible, and this book is a celebration of people of all ages, races, shapes, sizes, sexualities, and identities.

From suits to socks, tuxedos to ties, this is an utterly unique and visually exciting look at how fashionable men have been rocking polka dots, plaids, and paisley at home, at work, and at play throughout history and across the globe.

Nothing embraces the post-Covid aesthetic like a good print, and as gender-specific rules become increasingly irrelevant, today’s men are flaunting colorful patterns as proudly as ever before. This engaging and well-researched book brilliantly traces today’s eye-popping prints and embellished fashions from their historical origins. In dazzlingly illustrated chapters that focus on one specific type of print, Kit Neale traces the historical and geographical origins of contemporary trends. As multifaceted as its subject matter, the book examines floral and animal themes, camouflage and paisley, geometrics and type, even storytelling and photography — all with a wide range of relevant imagery, art and cultural history, celebrity images and fashion editorials. Whether your sartorial taste is safe or sparkly, you’ll find inspiration and insight on every page.

About the Author:

Designer Kit Neale has collaborated on projects with leading global brands such as IKEA, Coca-Cola, and Kew Gardens and is currently the Program Director for Textiles at Loughborough University in England. You can find him at www.kitneale.com.

This exclusive volume presents the best features and radically designed pages of the 1990’s most uncompromising document of alternative music, style, and pop culture.

Founded in 1992, Ray Gun was the only magazine wherein a die-hard culture seeker could find information on alternative music and the street-inspired style that really mattered. Punk rock had torn pop music to shreds and created a hunger for an original lifestyle beyond mainstream culture, and Ray Gun was its graphic chronicler: across its pages blasted a visual feast made up of era-defining artists such as Sonic Youth or Iggy Pop, music-inspired art, and a complete redefinition of sartorial style. The magazine’s original art director, David Carson, and his peers who followed, created an entirely new visual culture that shattered the limitations of graphic design.

Ray Gun was as radical as the lifestyle it reported on, deeply committed to visually representing an alternative culture as a new way of seeing and being in the world. With over 200 full-color photographs, Ray Gun: The Bible of Music and Style gathers the most outrageous pages from the magazine that helped to shape the ’90s. This epic anthology features exclusive photographs and articles on rock legends such as R.E.M., HenryRollins, Jane’s Addiction, The Pixies, Dinosaur Jr., U2, Marilyn Manson, Smashing Pumpkins, NineInch Nails, Mudhoney, Pearl Jam, Bjork, Morrissey, PJ Harvey, Beastie Boys, Soundgarden, Beck and an exclusive interview with David Bowie.

About the Authors:

Marvin Scott Jarrett is a celebrated creative force in the worlds of publishing, film, and television, as well as founder of Ray Gun and Nylon. Liz Phair is a legendary alt-rock goddess; Wayne Coyne is frontman of The Flaming Lips; Dean Kuipers is an arts and environmental writer; Steven Heller is an art director and co-chair of the MFA Design Department at the School of Visual Arts.

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An unprecedented look at women’s everyday clothes — from Sylvia Plath’s Girl Scout uniform to psychedelic microminis, modern suits, and fast-food workers’ uniforms — this fascinating volume shows how American women from every background have lived, worked, and dressed for 200 years.

Groundbreaking in its focus on the everyday clothing of ordinary American women — a subject neglected in most fashion histories — Real Clothes, Real Lives highlights over 300 garments and accessories from the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. This unique survey honors countless lives, tracing through the lens of dress how women’s roles have changed over the decades. Each piece holds colorful stories about the woman who wore it, the one who made or bought it, and her context in place and time. Whether homemade or ready-made, many of the garments are modest and inexpensive. Some are one-of-a-kind pieces; others are examples of clever making-do, which seems particularly relevant today; and most reflect the popular styles of their era. Among the many extraordinary examples are a rare World War I uniform worn by an American woman working behind enemy lines and a 1970s go-go dancer’s costume.

Exceptional photography and rich archival visuals accompany the highly readable texts, which offer a wealth of historical and social analysis of a side of fashion and feminism rarely considered.

About the Authors:

Kiki Smith is Professor of Theatre at Smith College and director of the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. She is also a professional costume and set designer. Diane von Furstenberg oversees her eponymous global lifestyle brand. Past president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, she is author of several books, including DVF: Journey of a Dress. Vanessa Friedman is fashion director and chief fashion critic for the New York Times.

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The first and only book to showcase a complete sartorial history of the Oscars' red carpet

The red carpet is so much more than fabulous gowns on famous people. It reflects the styles and values of the time, and has become a platform for often trenchant social statements. Red Carpet: Oscars presents over ninety years of fashion worn at the awards ceremony since its inception in 1929. From ready-to-wear to haute couture, it charts what stars and invitees wore across the decades, as well as the emergence of stylists, the commercialization of the red carpet and how fashion has shaped Hollywood.

The book opens with a foreword by Cate Blanchett and an introduction by Giorgio Armani, and then goes on to showcase hundreds of looks across almost a century. Each year is introduced with a short text explaining the era's fashion trends as well as the social and political influences of the day, along with carefully curated images of the most iconic and inspiring outfits.

About the Author:

Dijanna Mulhearn has over thirty years experience in the fashion industry, from event managing fashion week shows to public relations at Prada and executive coaching top-tier executives for leading luxury brands, including Dior and Chaumet. She has written editorial for titles including Harper's BAZAAR, Grazia and Studio and appears regularly on commercial network talk shows as a fashion commentator and is a sought-after public speaker. She is the author of Wardrobe 101: Creating the perfect core wardrobe and Wardrobe 101 for Mums. Having dressed many celebrities, Dijanna is intimate with the process of preparing for a red carpet. With experience in celebrity styling and a Masters degree in Communication Design, Dijanna is an expert in the subliminal language of clothing.

Originally published in 2007, Red Carpet struck a chord with all of us who can't get enough of the Hollywood red carpet scene at the biggest celebrity award shows, movie premieres, and parties. No book since the original edition has brought the reader so close to the velvet rope. Now, in this updated volume, relive 30 years of red carpet moments captured in more than 250 photographs of style makers and A-listers.

Red Carpet provides an unending runway show of the entertainment industry's most celebrated personalities in the greatest gowns and high fashion. Celebrity photographer Frank Trapper shares his front-row seat to nearly every major star-studded Hollywood event for the past three decades: the Oscars, Emmys, and A-list movie premieres.

About the Author:

Frank Trapper is an acclaimed celebrity photographer that has been covering the Hollywood beat for more than 30 years. Based in Los Angeles, where he does most of his work, his images have appeared in countless national and international magazines and newspapers.

The area of recycling and upcycling is a rich and growing source of innovative design in the fashion and accessories industries.

In a fast-fashion world of throw-away clothing, it is the ultimate expression of the slow-fashion movement, with each piece individually conceived and crafted from scratch, using different materials each time.

ReFashioned features 46 international designers who work with recycled materials and discarded garments, reinvigorating them with new life and value. The result is beautiful and desirable clothing and accessories that also make an important statement to the fashion world about its wasteful and exploitative practices.

About the Author:

Sass Brown is Acting Assistant Dean for the School of Art and Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. Originally from London, England, Sass established herself as a designer with her own signature collection selling in the UK and across Canada. As a researcher, writer and blogger, her area of expertise is eco fashion, in all of its different expressions, from slow design and heritage craft skills to recycle, reuse and new business models. She has published papers, spoken, taught and advised women’s cooperatives and educational institutions in Brazil, Peru, Columbia, Sri Lanka, Italy, France, US, Canada and the UK, on the topic of sustainable design. Voted in the top 10 Women Who Changed the Face of Fashion by Fashion Compassion, Brown promotes the best in eco-fashion design, through a multitude of media, most notably her books, her website www.ecofashiontalk.com and her journalism.

Contents:

Foreword by Natalie Chanin (Founder of Alabama Chanin, US hand made clothing and homewares)

Introduction

Chapter One
Designers Working with Used Clothing (e.g. worn and discarded garments) or
Used Industrial Materials (e.g. defunct flour sacks)
Opening Text
2ETN (jewellery) [US]; Artemas Quibble (bags / jewellery) [US]
Atelier Awash [Germany]; CeeBee (bags / jewellery) [Italy]
Christopher Raeburn [UK]; Clare Bare (lingerie) [US]
Dalaleo (bags / jewellery)    [Brazil / Italy]; Denham [Netherlands]
Jeffrey Wang [China]; Julia Barbee [US]
Junky Styling [UK]; km/a [Austria]; KONDAKIS [Kenya]
Lu Flux [UK]; MAYER Peace Collection [Germany]
MILCH [Austria]; Nudie Jeans [Sweden]
Odette Picaud (jewellery / accessories) [France]
Otra (jewellery) [Canada / France]
Raggedy     [UK]; Saisei (bags) [Italy]
Schmidt Takahashi  [Germany]; Silent People (bags) [Italy]
Sylwia Rochala [Poland]; Tamara Fogle (bags) [UK]
The BEA Project [US]; Trashed Couture    [UK]
Ute Decker (jewellery) [UK / Germany]

Chapter Two
Designers Working with Unused Clothing Waste (e.g. textile cut-offs) or Unused Industrial Materials (e.g. plastic product scraps created during the manufacturing process)
Opening Text
Carmina Campus (bags) [Italy / Africa]
Eva Zingoni [France]; Friends with Benefits [US]
From Somewhere  [UK]; Goodone [UK]
Hibrida (accessories) [Chile]; Juana Diaz [Chile]
Kerry Howley (jewellery) [UK]
Michelle Lowe-Holder (jewellery) [UK]
Paulina Plizga [France]; Piece x Piece [US]
Rachel Freire [UK]; R.ds [Denmark]
Reet Aus [Estonia]; Steinwidder [Austria]
Trash-Couture [Denmark]; Waste Away (accessories)  [UK]

Conclusion

Further Reading
Designers’ Websites
Picture Credits and Acknowledgements

As our climate, ecological and social crises converge, urgent action is needed to maximize our chances of survival. A new commercial approach is possible but it requires a systemic shift, with companies learning to operate as part of a wider 'ecosystem', allowing fashion to restore what it has taken.

Regenerative Fashion presents a roadmap for new ways of doing fashion. To keep our planet safe, we must cut production and end our dependency on fossil fuels. We must also create dignified livelihoods for the millions of people working in the industry. By using natural resources, paying factory workers and farmers a living wage and scaling up craft production, we can not only rebuild soils, ecosystems and biodiversity, but also support decarbonization, regenerate communities and ensure a just transition for all.

Part guide and part manifesto, this book shares stories of our interconnectedness with the natural world and each other, divided into sections on Nature & Materials; People, Livelihoods & Crafts; and New Economy & Leadership. Fully illustrated throughout, it features interviews from best-practice designers and businesses around the world, as well as thought pieces from leading campaigners within the industry.

About the Author:

Safia Minney MBE is an award-winning social entrepreneur, speaker and advisor. She has over 20 years' experience as global CEO of the company she founded, People Tree, developing the first sustainable and Fair Trade supply chains and standards, and she has various advisory roles with businesses, networks and charities.

Nineties fashion-from grunge, to Clueless's Alaïa, to Margiela's new couture-is an essential reference point for contemporary style. This book, created in tandem with an exhibition at The Museum at FIT, documents the changing culture, attitudes, and creatives that ushered in our visual age.

Minimalism. Deconstruction. The rejuvenation of established houses. These are just a few of the concepts that have come to define 1990s fashion. Others include an increased concern with environmentalism, developing technologies and the beginning of the fashion internet, freewheeling historical references, and a predilection for lifting significant styles from other cultures (the issues raised by this 'borrowing' are reviewed through a contemporary lens). In the twenty years since the decade ended, the fashion world has experienced several nineties revivals.

Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s focuses specifically on designers who challenged the expected appearance or workings of high fashion, and who played an important role in laying the foundation for fashion of the twenty-first century, including: Tom Ford, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Martin Margiela, Stella McCartney, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Viktor & Rolf. Additional chapters address changes to fashion editorials and campaigns (under talents like Steven Meisel, Corinne Day, Inez & Vinoodh, Mark Borthwick, and Nan Goldin), a new theatricality to runway presentations, and the emergence of fashion theory as a field.

About the Author:

Colleen Hill is curator of costume and accessories at The Museum at FIT, New York. Valerie Steele is director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT and founding editor of Fashion Theory. Patricia Mears is deputy director of The Museum at FIT. Shonagh Marshall is a curator, writer, and arts consultant with a specialization in fashion and contemporary culture based in New York City.

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Remake, recycle, refresh: save money, save the planet, stay stylish!

In this new age of austerity, let Remake It: Clothes be your style bible.
The second volume in the ‘Remake It’ series, this is the indispensable, inspirational and practical guide to resourceful fashion.

An encyclopedia of life skills, smart ideas and great design, step-by-steps and tips=and-tricks can be found alongside innovative examples from celebrated international designers such as Martin Margiela, Christian Louboutin, Rachel Freire and Freitag.