An illustrated exploration of the story behind the brand, from Alexander McQueen's own early days to the current leadership of Sarah Burton. Includes a collection of finished designs, close-up details and personal sketches.
"Give me time and I'll give you a revolution" - Alexander McQueen

Ever since its creation in 1992, the House of Alexander McQueen has been synonymous with drama, risk-taking and cutting-edge innovation. From iconic collaborations, like with Lady Gaga for her "Bad Romance" music video, to shockingly controversial runway shows like The Horn of Plenty, Alexander McQueen was beloved for his fantastical silhouettes and blurring of gender lines.

This exquisitely illustrated volume explores the story behind the House, from McQueen's own early days to the current leadership of Sarah Burton. Through a carefully curated collection of finished designs, close-up details and sketches, this book pulls back the veil on the wonderful world of McQueen.

About the Author:

Karen Homer is an established fashion journalist who worked as a fashion columnist for The Times and has contributed to the Telegraph, Harpers & Queen, Elle, World of Interiors and Vogue. She is the author of the Little Book of Dior and Things a Woman Should Know About Style. She lives in London.

Вражаюча данина приголомшливим колекціям Александра МакКвіна, що розкриває фотографії, які досі були одним із найкраще приховуваних секретів моди.

Александр МакКвін захопив уяву публіки, як мало хто інший модельєр до нього, а виставки, присвячені його роботі, продовжують приваблювати рекордну кількість відвідувачів.

Майже 500 000 людей відвідали виставку Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty у музеї Вікторії та Альберта у 2015 році, що робить її найпопулярнішою в історії музею. Книга Alexander McQueen: Unseen, що починається з короткого есе про роботу дизайнера, розгортається хронологічно.

Кожна колекція представлена ​​стислим текстом Клер Вілкокс, одного з провідних експертів з творчості МакКвіна, який переглядає найвідоміші творіння дизайнера за всю його кар'єру та розкриває раніше не бачені закулісні моменти, що фіксують моделей, перукарів, стилістів, візажистів та самого Александра МакКвіна у їхній найвідвертішій та найкреативнішій формі.

Приголомшливі та енергійні фотографії Роберта Фейрера, всі раніше не публіковані, вловлюють гламур, мужність та дух, які зробили яскраві покази Макквіна унікальними. Скарбниця натхнення, вони роблять цю публікацію обов'язковим довідником для любителів моди та фотографії.

Зміст:

Передмова: Саллі Сінгер • Вступ: Клер Вілкокс • Есе: Роберт Фейрер • Нігілізм • Зґвалтування в горах • Голод • Данте • Беллмер • Лялька • Там джунглі • Без назви • Джоан • № 13 • Огляд • Око • Яка карусель • Танець покрученого бика • Суперкаліфрагілістикоекспіалідосіоз • Ірере • Сканери • Визволення • Пантеон на світ • Чорний • Це лише гра • Людина, яка знала забагато • Нептун • Вікна Каллодена • Сарабанда • Пам'яті Елізабет Хоу, Салем, 1692 • Блакитна дама • Дівчина, яка жила на дереві • Природне розмежування, неприродний відбір • Ріг достатку • Атлантида Платона • Нотатки до колекцій • Авторство • Подяки • Покажчик

Про авторів:

Британський фотограф Роберт Фейрер працював ексклюзивно для американського Vogue за лаштунками понад десять років. Розпочавши свою кар'єру в британському Elle в середині 1990-х, потім в Harpers Bazaar USA і, нарешті, в американському Vogue, він висвітлював модний дух супермоделі, дизайнера та модного ексцесу з 1993 по 2011 рік. Його закулісні архіви були опубліковані в трьох монографіях: Alexander McQueen Unseen, John Galliano Unseen, та Marc Jacobs Unseen видавництвами Thames & Hudson, Yale University Press, Schirmer Mosel та Abrams. Роботи Роберта публікуються в The New York Times, Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, i-D Magazine та Visionaire, а також у книгах та антологіях про моду, портрети та спосіб життя. Роберт продовжує документувати модну еліту та співпрацювати зі своїми редакторами та клієнтами в незвіданих сферах моди.

Клер Вілкокс — старший куратор кафедри меблів, текстилю та моди у V&A та професор кураторства моди Лондонського коледжу моди Університету мистецтв Лондона.
Саллі Сінгер — креативний директор з цифрових технологій американського Vogue.

Ця остаточна публікація про Alexander McQueen (1969–2010) запрошує вас у творчий світ і світ одного з найяскравіших, сміливих і провокаційних дизайнерів Британії, а також у численні теми та посилання, які сформували його далекоглядні модні колекції.

Справді комплексне дослідження, цей каталог є першим глибоким оглядом McQueen і досліджує ключові теми виставки — пошив одягу, готику, примітивізм, натуралізм і футуризм. У книзі також представлено раніше невидимий матеріал, а також новаторські есе та статті багатьох авторів і провідних модних коментаторів. Цей калейдоскопічний підхід досліджує ключові теми для творчості дизайнера та його колекцій, такі як психологія моди, природна історія, театр і видовищність його шоу, а також ключові творчі партнери за життя МакКвіна.

Alexander McQueen також пропонує енциклопедичний огляд подіумних колекцій McQueen, проілюстрований вражаючими зображеннями провідних фешн-фотографів, а також спеціально замовленими фотографіями, які передають захоплюючу майстерність його дизайну та приголомшливу театральність його показів.

Про автора:

Claire Wilcox є старшим куратором відділу меблів, текстилю та моди V&A та викладачем Лондонського коледжу моди.

In Gods and Kings Dana Thomas, author of Deluxe, tells the story of how John Galliano and Alexander McQueen changed the face of fashion

In the first decade of the 21st century the fashion world was dominated by two different but equally successful and turbulent figures. Within twelve months, Alexander McQueen had committed suicide, and John Galliano had professionally imploded. Who was to blame? And how was fashion changed by their rise and fall? Spanning the 80s, 90s and noughties, Gods and Kings tells the story of these two charismatic figures and times of great change in the world of fashion, from London's raucous art and club scene to the old-world glamour of Parisian couture, and reveals the machinations of this notoriously secretive industry.

About the Author:

Dana Thomas has written for The New York Times magazine, the New Yorker, WSJ, the Financial Times, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and was the European editor of Condé Nast Portfolio. She is a contributing editor for T: The New York Times Style magazine, and the author of The New York Times bestseller, Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre. She lives in Paris.

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Пролистать книгу Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano на Google Books

Arguably the most influential, imaginative, and provocative designer of his generation, Alexander McQueen both challenged and expanded fashion conventions to express ideas about race, class, sexuality, religion, and the environment.

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty examines the full breadth of the designer’s career, from the start of his fledgling label to the triumphs of his own world-renowned London house. It features his most iconic and radical designs, revealing how McQueen adapted and combined the fundamentals of Savile Row tailoring, the specialized techniques of haute couture, and technological innovation to achieve his distinctive aesthetic. It also focuses on the highly sophisticated narrative structures underpinning his collections and extravagant runway presentations, with their echoes of avant-garde installation and performance art.

Published to coincide with an exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art organized by The Costume Institute, this stunning book includes a preface by Andrew Bolton; an introduction by Susannah Frankel; an interview by Tim Blanks with Sarah Burton, creative director of the house of Alexander McQueen; illuminating quotes from the designer himself; provocative and captivating new photography by renowned photographer Sølve Sundsbø; and a lenticular cover by Gary James McQueen.

About the Author

Andrew Bolton is Curator of The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Tim Blanks is contributing editor of Style.com and Susannah Frankel is fashion editor of The Independent newspaper.

Vogue about the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Exhibition

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Пролистать книгу Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty на Google Books.

In Gods and Kings Dana Thomas, author of Deluxe, tells the story of how John Galliano and Alexander McQueen changed the face of fashion

In the first decade of the 21st century the fashion world was dominated by two different but equally successful and turbulent figures. Within twelve months, Alexander McQueen had committed suicide, and John Galliano had professionally imploded. Who was to blame? And how was fashion changed by their rise and fall? Spanning the 80s, 90s and noughties, Gods and Kings tells the story of these two charismatic figures and times of great change in the world of fashion, from London's raucous art and club scene to the old-world glamour of Parisian couture, and reveals the machinations of this notoriously secretive industry.

About the Author:

Dana Thomas has written for The New York Times magazine, the New Yorker, WSJ, the Financial Times, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and was the European editor of Condé Nast Portfolio. She is a contributing editor for T: The New York Times Style magazine, and the author of The New York Times bestseller, Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre. She lives in Paris.

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Пролистать книгу Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano на Google Books

A striking tribute to Alexander McQueen’s stunning collections, revealing photographs that were, until now, one of fashion’s best-kept secrets

Alexander McQueen has grasped the public's imagination like few other fashion designers before him, with exhibitions dedicated to his work continuing to attract record visitor numbers.

Almost 500,000 people visited the V&A's 2015 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition, making it the most popular in the museum s history. Opening with a brief essay on the designer's work, Alexander McQueen: Unseen unfolds chronologically.

Each collection is introduced by a concise text by Claire Wilcox, one of the foremost experts on the McQueen's work, revisiting the designer's most iconic creations across his entire career and revealing previously unseen behind-the-scenes moments that capture models, hairdressers, stylists, make-up artists and Alexander McQueen himself at their most candid and creative.

Robert Fairer's stunning and high-energy photographs, all previously unpublished, capture the glamour, grit and spirit that made McQueen's flamboyant shows unique. A treasure-trove of inspiration, they make this publication a must-have reference for fashion and photography lovers alike.

Magnificently illustrated with some of McQueen's most riveting designs, this book illuminates the struggles of a man who dared to defy accepted fashion norms and give the world a new sense of grandeur From conflicted gay teenager and aggressive and remote young man, through to his lonely suicide, this book charts Alexander McQueen's ascent to couturier par excellence, highlighting his spectacular shows and showing how his confrontational, streetwise manner was simply a shield that protected and masked a very shy, sensitive, and insecure man who hailed from the wrong side of the high fashion tracks.

McQueen's talent is now globally acknowledged to have been unmatched in contemporary haute couture, and this book distills from the lavish sweep of his colors, designs, fabrics, and forward-driving concepts the essence of a man on a quest for beauty and his own contentment. In casting the spotlight on the stark contrast between catwalk glamour and his upbringing and personal demons, the book shows how his talent both nourished and destroyed him. It takes us from the vicious glare of the walkway where he was feted by the wealthy and famous as an innovative artist to behind the glamour.

There, defiance delineated a life that was hurled into inescapable depression by the deaths, first of his great friend and supporter Isabella Blow and then by his mother.

About the Author:

Michael A. O'Neill has written scripts for, produced, and narrated historical documentaries, which have been shown on the Discovery Channel and the History Channel.

Alexander (Lee) McQueen was - for the 15 years that he stood at its helm - British fashion's most significant figure.

Alexander McQueen extraordinary career, which took him from humble beginnings as an apprentice on Savile Row to the creative directorship of his own global brand, is a story of hard work, ambition and visionary brilliance.

Leading photographers such as Mario Testino and Corinne Day photographed his stunning designs for Vogue, and through them, Alexander McQueen's career is presented - from the controversy of his early shows to the elegiac perfection of his last - with a particular emphasis on the evolution of his signature style: immaculate tailoring, slashed fabric, historical references and beauty in the macabre.

The book shows that McQueen's own ambition was fully realised: 'I want to be the purveyor of a certain silhouette or a way of cutting so that, when I'm dead and gone, people will know that the Twenty-first Century was started by Alexander McQueen'.

Vogue, the international fashion bible, has charted the careers of designers through the decades. Its unique archive of photographs, taken by the leading photographers of the day from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino, and original illustrations, together with its stable of highly respected fashion writers, make Vogue the most authoritative and prestigious source of reference on fashion. With a circulation of over 160,000 and a readership of over 1,400,000, no brand is better positioned to present a library on the great fashion designers of the modern age.

London 1996: Alexander McQueen took over the Hawksmoor masterpiece Christ Church in Londons East End for what was quite possibly the greatest fashion show on Earth. A candle-lit, cruciform catwalk with a backdrop of stained-glass windows set the tone for an extraordinary collection. Lace sat against chiffon and rubbed shoulders with couture and club-culture clothing and digital print. Dante was the seminal collection that would resonate throughout Alexander McQueen's career.

This book features unique photographs shot behind the scenes, with raw, unseen pictures of the designer, models and clothes. The fashion creatives who worked with McQueen to make the show such a success recall this pivotal time in the designer's career and reflect on what made Dante truly groundbreaking. Newly created imagery of clothes shown on the catwalk gives an insight into why this collection was so special.

About the authors:

Kent Baker lives in London and New York. He was championed by Terry Jones from i-D magazine, jump-starting collaborations with British Vogue, 10 Magazine and Russian Vogue. 
Melanie Rickey is a writer, editor and consultant. She writes for the Guardian and Grazia, and shares her expert fashion knowledge on her Fashion Editor at Large website.

When Alexander McQueen committed suicide in February 2010, aged just 40, a shocked world mourned the loss of its most visionary fashion designer.

McQueen had risen from humble beginnings as the youngest child of an East London taxi driver to scale the heights of fame, fortune and glamour. He designed clothes for the world's most beautiful women including Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. In business, he created a multi-million-pound luxury brand that became a favourite with both celebrities and royalty, most famously the Duchess of Cambridge who wore a McQueen dress on her wedding day.

But behind the confident facade and bad-boy image, lay a sensitive soul who struggled to survive in the ruthless world of fashion. As the pressures of work intensified, so McQueen became increasingly dependent on the drugs that contributed to his tragic end. His failure to find lasting love with a string of boyfriends only added to his despair. And then there were the dark secrets that haunted his sleep…

A modern-day fairy tale infused with the darkness of a Greek tragedy, this book will tell the sensational story of McQueen's rise from his hard East London upbringing to the hedonistic world of fashion. Those closest to the designer - his family, friends and lovers - have spoken for the first time about the man they knew, a fragmented and insecure individual, a lost boy who battled to gain entry into a world that ultimately destroyed him.

Alexander McQueen: Evolution is the story of the designer's thirty-five runway shows and the genius behind them.

From Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, his 1992 graduate collection, to Plato's Atlantis, the last show before his death in 2010, Lee Alexander McQueen was as celebrated for the meticulous craftsmanship and stunning originality of his designs as he was notorious for his theatrical ― and often controversial ― runway shows.

Taking his inspiration from sources as diverse as his own Scottish ancestry, Alfred Hitchcock movies and Yoruba mythology, McQueen brought together exquisite tailoring and avant-garde performance art. Combining gripping narrative and vivid photography with quotes from the designer and those who knew him best, this book brings each of the designer’s runway shows to life, including a look at the pieces and inspiration behind Angels and Demons, the show he was working on before his untimely death.

 This is the definitive, immersive account of a unique career and a fitting tribute to the enfant terrible of British fashion.

"I thought I knew almost everything about the history of fashion until I met Kerry Taylor. The inside-out knowledge she has of garments will inspire both students and designers to look at fashion with fresh eyes." - Sarah Mower, US Vogue

"This beautiful book by Kerry Taylor - the go-to woman for vintage and antique couture - is a treat for collectors and fashion lovers alike." - The Wall Street Journal

"Whatever my question about vintage, Kerry Taylor has the answer. Her expertise, knowledge and historical anecdotes have raised the level of interest in this subject hugely." -Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph

Named one of Glamour Magazine's "Must-Read Style Books"!

Profiled by Vogue and The New York Times and courted by style icons with wardrobes to sell and top designers in search of inspiration, Kerry Taylor is one of the world's leading experts on vintage fashion and couture. In this lavishly illustrated book, Kerry tells the story of a century of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their creations. All the fashion stars are here from Poiret to McQueen via Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Madame Grès, Dior, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Alaïa, and Margiela. For each designer Kerry explores their career through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, explaining what makes each item so desirable to the collector or wearer of vintage fashion.

Each chapter includes at least one 'style icon' whose relationship with fashion has had a lasting impact, including Baba D'Erlanger, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso and Kate Moss. Illustrated with a mix of gorgeous fashion photography plus images from Kerry's own astonishing archive, this book is set to become an invaluable guide for collectors of vintage (whatever their budget) and all those who love fashion.

Contents includes...

Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy
Prologue by Christopher Kane
1900s
Paul Poiret
Lucile
Mariano Fortuny
1920s
Jean Patou
Jeanne Lanvin
Chanel in the Twenties
1930s
Elsa Schiaparelli
Style Icon Wallis Simpson
Madeleine Vionnet - The Architect of Couture
1940s
The effects of War on Fashion in Europe
American Fashion in the Forties
Christian Dior - The Saviour of French Haute Couture
1950s
Pierre Balmain
Cristóbal Balenciaga - The Master
Style Icon Grace Kelly
1960s
Mary Quant
Hubert de Givenchy 
Style Icon Audrey Hepburn
1970s
Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies
Zandra Rhodes
Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren
1980s
Italian Masters
Azzedine Alaïa
John Galliano
1990s
The New Romantics
Thierry Mugler
Style Icon Kate Moss
2000s
Later McQueen
Style Icon Daphne Guinness
Collecting Vintage
Taking Care of your Collection

A retrospective of Lee's groundbreaking work and a salute to his artistry, the book showcases the wonderful world of McQueen, from his graduate collection at Central Saint Martins to his latest designs created just days before his untimely death, and finally his ideas carried on through Sarah Burton, including the royal wedding dress.

Celebrating his work and vision, "Alexander McQueen: Fashion Visionary" traces the designer's ascent to becoming one of the world's most respected couturiers - a story marked by celebrity friendships, unrestrained creativity, theatrical fashion shows and, ultimately, tragedy. The chronological organization allows the reader to understand McQueen's most seminal collections and the progression and underlying themes of his ideas.

This book is dedicated to McQueen's work and talent, and exhibits not simply visually electrifying fashion images, but also reveals the deep reservoir of the designer's imagination.

From Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, his 1992 graduate collection, to Plato's Atlantis, the last show before his death in 2010, Lee Alexander McQueen was as celebrated for the exquisite tailoring, meticulous craftsmanship, and stunning originality of his designs as he was notorious for his theatrical - and often controversial - runway shows.

McQueen found inspiration for his avant-garde collections everywhere: his Scottish ancestry, Alfred Hitchcock movies, Yoruba mythology, the destruction of the environment - even the fashion industry itself. Whatever his inspiration, however, McQueen’s concept for his runway show came first and was crucial to the development of the collection.

Every show had a narrative and was staged with his characteristic dramatic flair. Highland Rape featured disheveled models smeared with “blood” staggering down the runway in town clothes. In Scanners, two robots sprayed paint on a model trapped on a spinning platform. In Widows of Culloden, a hologram of supermodel Kate Moss held center stage.

Other McQueen shows staged models walking through water, drifting snowflakes, rain, and wind tunnels; pole-dancing in garish makeup at a carnival, playing living pieces in a bizarre chess game, and performing with trained dancers in a Depression-era-style marathon.

Illustrated throughout with stunning photography and liberally sprinkled with quotations from McQueen and those who knew him best, Alexander McQueen: Evolution is the story of the designer’s thirty-five runway shows and the genius behind them.