Дизайн

The first and only book to showcase a complete sartorial history of the Oscars' red carpet

The red carpet is so much more than fabulous gowns on famous people. It reflects the styles and values of the time, and has become a platform for often trenchant social statements. Red Carpet: Oscars presents over ninety years of fashion worn at the awards ceremony since its inception in 1929. From ready-to-wear to haute couture, it charts what stars and invitees wore across the decades, as well as the emergence of stylists, the commercialization of the red carpet and how fashion has shaped Hollywood.

The book opens with a foreword by Cate Blanchett and an introduction by Giorgio Armani, and then goes on to showcase hundreds of looks across almost a century. Each year is introduced with a short text explaining the era's fashion trends as well as the social and political influences of the day, along with carefully curated images of the most iconic and inspiring outfits.

About the Author:

Dijanna Mulhearn has over thirty years experience in the fashion industry, from event managing fashion week shows to public relations at Prada and executive coaching top-tier executives for leading luxury brands, including Dior and Chaumet. She has written editorial for titles including Harper's BAZAAR, Grazia and Studio and appears regularly on commercial network talk shows as a fashion commentator and is a sought-after public speaker. She is the author of Wardrobe 101: Creating the perfect core wardrobe and Wardrobe 101 for Mums. Having dressed many celebrities, Dijanna is intimate with the process of preparing for a red carpet. With experience in celebrity styling and a Masters degree in Communication Design, Dijanna is an expert in the subliminal language of clothing.

Originally published in 2007, Red Carpet struck a chord with all of us who can't get enough of the Hollywood red carpet scene at the biggest celebrity award shows, movie premieres, and parties. No book since the original edition has brought the reader so close to the velvet rope. Now, in this updated volume, relive 30 years of red carpet moments captured in more than 250 photographs of style makers and A-listers.

Red Carpet provides an unending runway show of the entertainment industry's most celebrated personalities in the greatest gowns and high fashion. Celebrity photographer Frank Trapper shares his front-row seat to nearly every major star-studded Hollywood event for the past three decades: the Oscars, Emmys, and A-list movie premieres.

About the Author:

Frank Trapper is an acclaimed celebrity photographer that has been covering the Hollywood beat for more than 30 years. Based in Los Angeles, where he does most of his work, his images have appeared in countless national and international magazines and newspapers.

In this book, gouache, a classic technique often compared to watercolour, acquires a new dimension and offers a bolder approach to contemporary artists, illustrators and graphic designers.

Gouache erases the boundaries between ‘proper painting’ and the spontaneous charm of watercolour, combining the advantages of both techniques. Diluted, gouache is almost like watercolour, but when used on its own, it can be applied in opaque layers with a matte surface reminiscent of pastels. Soluble in water, it is rather forgiving and allows for corrections and revisions, and finally, the fine grain of the pigment it contains makes detailed drawings possible.

About the Author:

Aljoscha Blau is one of the most renowned illustrators in German- speaking countries. He was born in 1972 in Leningrad (now Saint Petersburg), USSR. Since earning his degree in illustration and graphic arts from HAW (Hamburg University of Applied Sciences, Hamburg, Germany), Blau has worked as an illustrator and author for German and international publishers. He has been honoured with numerous international awards, such as the German Design Award, the Bologna Ragazzi Award, Prix Figure Future, Troisdorfer Bilderbuchpreis (Troisdof City Illustrated Book Award), and the Deutscher Jugendliteraturpreis (German Youth Literature Award), and nominated for the Astrid Lindgren Memorial Award. Blau teaches and conducts illustration and drawing workshops at various art academies in Germany, Denmark, Switzerland, Italy and France. He currently lives in Berlin.

The area of recycling and upcycling is a rich and growing source of innovative design in the fashion and accessories industries.

In a fast-fashion world of throw-away clothing, it is the ultimate expression of the slow-fashion movement, with each piece individually conceived and crafted from scratch, using different materials each time.

ReFashioned features 46 international designers who work with recycled materials and discarded garments, reinvigorating them with new life and value. The result is beautiful and desirable clothing and accessories that also make an important statement to the fashion world about its wasteful and exploitative practices.

About the Author:

Sass Brown is Acting Assistant Dean for the School of Art and Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. Originally from London, England, Sass established herself as a designer with her own signature collection selling in the UK and across Canada. As a researcher, writer and blogger, her area of expertise is eco fashion, in all of its different expressions, from slow design and heritage craft skills to recycle, reuse and new business models. She has published papers, spoken, taught and advised women’s cooperatives and educational institutions in Brazil, Peru, Columbia, Sri Lanka, Italy, France, US, Canada and the UK, on the topic of sustainable design. Voted in the top 10 Women Who Changed the Face of Fashion by Fashion Compassion, Brown promotes the best in eco-fashion design, through a multitude of media, most notably her books, her website www.ecofashiontalk.com and her journalism.

Contents:

Foreword by Natalie Chanin (Founder of Alabama Chanin, US hand made clothing and homewares)

Introduction

Chapter One
Designers Working with Used Clothing (e.g. worn and discarded garments) or
Used Industrial Materials (e.g. defunct flour sacks)
Opening Text
2ETN (jewellery) [US]; Artemas Quibble (bags / jewellery) [US]
Atelier Awash [Germany]; CeeBee (bags / jewellery) [Italy]
Christopher Raeburn [UK]; Clare Bare (lingerie) [US]
Dalaleo (bags / jewellery)    [Brazil / Italy]; Denham [Netherlands]
Jeffrey Wang [China]; Julia Barbee [US]
Junky Styling [UK]; km/a [Austria]; KONDAKIS [Kenya]
Lu Flux [UK]; MAYER Peace Collection [Germany]
MILCH [Austria]; Nudie Jeans [Sweden]
Odette Picaud (jewellery / accessories) [France]
Otra (jewellery) [Canada / France]
Raggedy     [UK]; Saisei (bags) [Italy]
Schmidt Takahashi  [Germany]; Silent People (bags) [Italy]
Sylwia Rochala [Poland]; Tamara Fogle (bags) [UK]
The BEA Project [US]; Trashed Couture    [UK]
Ute Decker (jewellery) [UK / Germany]

Chapter Two
Designers Working with Unused Clothing Waste (e.g. textile cut-offs) or Unused Industrial Materials (e.g. plastic product scraps created during the manufacturing process)
Opening Text
Carmina Campus (bags) [Italy / Africa]
Eva Zingoni [France]; Friends with Benefits [US]
From Somewhere  [UK]; Goodone [UK]
Hibrida (accessories) [Chile]; Juana Diaz [Chile]
Kerry Howley (jewellery) [UK]
Michelle Lowe-Holder (jewellery) [UK]
Paulina Plizga [France]; Piece x Piece [US]
Rachel Freire [UK]; R.ds [Denmark]
Reet Aus [Estonia]; Steinwidder [Austria]
Trash-Couture [Denmark]; Waste Away (accessories)  [UK]

Conclusion

Further Reading
Designers’ Websites
Picture Credits and Acknowledgements

As our climate, ecological and social crises converge, urgent action is needed to maximize our chances of survival. A new commercial approach is possible but it requires a systemic shift, with companies learning to operate as part of a wider 'ecosystem', allowing fashion to restore what it has taken.

Regenerative Fashion presents a roadmap for new ways of doing fashion. To keep our planet safe, we must cut production and end our dependency on fossil fuels. We must also create dignified livelihoods for the millions of people working in the industry. By using natural resources, paying factory workers and farmers a living wage and scaling up craft production, we can not only rebuild soils, ecosystems and biodiversity, but also support decarbonization, regenerate communities and ensure a just transition for all.

Part guide and part manifesto, this book shares stories of our interconnectedness with the natural world and each other, divided into sections on Nature & Materials; People, Livelihoods & Crafts; and New Economy & Leadership. Fully illustrated throughout, it features interviews from best-practice designers and businesses around the world, as well as thought pieces from leading campaigners within the industry.

About the Author:

Safia Minney MBE is an award-winning social entrepreneur, speaker and advisor. She has over 20 years' experience as global CEO of the company she founded, People Tree, developing the first sustainable and Fair Trade supply chains and standards, and she has various advisory roles with businesses, networks and charities.

Nineties fashion-from grunge, to Clueless's Alaïa, to Margiela's new couture-is an essential reference point for contemporary style. This book, created in tandem with an exhibition at The Museum at FIT, documents the changing culture, attitudes, and creatives that ushered in our visual age.

Minimalism. Deconstruction. The rejuvenation of established houses. These are just a few of the concepts that have come to define 1990s fashion. Others include an increased concern with environmentalism, developing technologies and the beginning of the fashion internet, freewheeling historical references, and a predilection for lifting significant styles from other cultures (the issues raised by this 'borrowing' are reviewed through a contemporary lens). In the twenty years since the decade ended, the fashion world has experienced several nineties revivals.

Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s focuses specifically on designers who challenged the expected appearance or workings of high fashion, and who played an important role in laying the foundation for fashion of the twenty-first century, including: Tom Ford, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Martin Margiela, Stella McCartney, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Viktor & Rolf. Additional chapters address changes to fashion editorials and campaigns (under talents like Steven Meisel, Corinne Day, Inez & Vinoodh, Mark Borthwick, and Nan Goldin), a new theatricality to runway presentations, and the emergence of fashion theory as a field.

About the Author:

Colleen Hill is curator of costume and accessories at The Museum at FIT, New York. Valerie Steele is director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT and founding editor of Fashion Theory. Patricia Mears is deputy director of The Museum at FIT. Shonagh Marshall is a curator, writer, and arts consultant with a specialization in fashion and contemporary culture based in New York City.

___________

Пролистать книгу Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s

Remake, recycle, refresh: save money, save the planet, stay stylish!

In this new age of austerity, let Remake It: Clothes be your style bible.
The second volume in the ‘Remake It’ series, this is the indispensable, inspirational and practical guide to resourceful fashion.

An encyclopedia of life skills, smart ideas and great design, step-by-steps and tips=and-tricks can be found alongside innovative examples from celebrated international designers such as Martin Margiela, Christian Louboutin, Rachel Freire and Freitag.

The exquisite creations embody our best artistic endeavors, and offer a glimpse of the greatness of the civilizations that produced them. Their sheer beauty and charm are enough for us to marvel at, let alone the large sum of resources, efforts and time poured into making them. In this book, we hope to follow our predecessors’ footprints in the endless pursuit of exquisite beauty, and to explore the possibilities of how this style might blaze new trails in today’s graphic design world.

“Rough” could be naive, crude, intuitive, or raw. In art and design, “rough” approaches to creation tend to touch viewer’s heart with its naturalness, honest and boldness. Looking back at our rough art heritage and focusing on the rough graphic design of our time, this book presents and concludes the different approaches of rough expression. In it we could find out why and how artists created childlike lines and colors, torn and rubbed the paper, or collected trash from streets. Through interviews with the designers, we could also explore how they make a rough image “awfully” good. After reading this book, we might become more fascinated by such visual roughness.

This book evokes the world of Fantini, a “factory of Italian design” strongly connected to its territory, Lake Orta, the genius loci of its creations.

The fascinating story of this business starts in the small village of Pella, on the shores of Lake Orta, in northern Italy, yet its high-end design products created by the best-known designers, including Piero Lissoni, Michael Anastassiades, Matteo Thun, Antonio Rodriguez, Vincent Van Duysen, Naoto Fukasawa, and Paik Sun Kim, went on to travel the world in an international circuit.

Water is the common thread running through the whole book. This is the water of Lake Orta, found in the images of great photographers such as Gianni Basso, Franco Fontana, Giorgio Lotti, Gabriele Basilico, Gianni Berengo Gardin, Ferdinando Scianna, Gabriele Croppi, and Walter Zerla, who have interpreted it over time at the invitation of Fantini. However, water is also the main element of the jewellike taps produced by the company, small everyday masterpieces that bring it to our homes, renewing this great magic every day.

About the Authors:

Renato Sartori is the strategic consultant and communications manager for the Fantini company. Patrizia Scarzella is an architect and journalist. She is a consultant on social-design projects for the United Nations Industrial Development Organization. She has been collaborating with the Fantini company since 1995.

Covers all the classic techniques and practices of service personnel in fine dining restaurants

Restaurant Service is a comprehensive book that highlights all of the essential dining room service techniques. With this book's guidance, you'll learn how to set the table and how to serve and pour drinks, as well as other forms of table service including slicing and flambéing. Each service technique includes detailed instructions and is illustrated with step-by-step photographs capturing the accuracy and precision of the task. Tracing all the techniques of tableware, Restaurant Service will ensure you have mastered the basics of perfect dining room service and support you throughout your professional journey.

About the Authors:

Since 1980, Thierry Boulicot has taught catering as a vocational subject at the Lycée technique d'hôtellerie et de tourisme de Val de Loire, a hotel and tourism college in Blois, France. Since 1988, Dominique Jeuffrault has been a technical and vocational teacher at the Lycée technique hôtelier, a hotel college in La Rochelle, France.

________

Пролистать книгу Restaurant Service: Preparation, Carving, Slicing, Flambeing and Setting the Tables на Google Books.

An artistic photographic book dedicated to the reconstruction of the Polcevera Viaduct, also known as Ponte Morandi, in Genoa, which tragically collapsed in 2018.

Andrea Botto, a photographer and visual artist specializing in large works, uses his shots to describe the stages involved in the demolition of the old Ponte Morandi and the construction of the new infrastructure designed by Renzo Piano. His lens follows each phase of the undertaking with technical expertise and attention to the composition of the image, in a skillful combination of documentary reportage and aesthetic research.

Botto has been working for RINA Consulting, the Italian agency supervising both the demolition and the construction of the new bridge, which is set to become a new landmark in Genoa, having been designed by Renzo Piano, one of the most renowned architects in the world.

RINA Consulting was selected by the commissioning authority to carry out project management, supervision, quality control, and safety coordination during the execution phase of the project.

About the Author:

Andrea Botto is an Italian fine-art photographer and lecturer. His projects have been acknowledged by grants and awards and have been exhibited in international museums. His works can be found in private and public collections. He carries out and manages editorial and corporate projects, specializing in decommissioning and infrastructure projects.

The human body is a challenging subject to depict because of its intricate complexity and movement. “To do it well requires an in-depth knowledge of anatomy and an awareness of what lies beneath all parts of the body, for the greatest figurative art gives the impression that there is a living skeleton inside the body,” notes artist and veteran art educator Rey Bustos. With Rey’s Anatomy: Figurative Art Lessons from the Classroom, Bustos provides essential anatomical information, detailed studies, and valuable drawing tutorials to equip artists with a basic understanding of the skeletal structure and muscle system of the human body.

Having taught figure drawing for 30 years, he presents complex concepts in a remarkably accessible manner, referencing works from the Old Masters to demonstrate how an artist can take the same anatomical knowledge and express it in diverse and personal ways and, with study and practice, portray the human form without being hindered by the process or the intellect. Rey’s Anatomy explores anatomy first, followed by daily drawing exercises to help refine one’s figurative work, while featuring the extraordinary work of his students throughout the book ― alongside his own ― a testament to how his lessons have benefited generations of artists.

About the Author:

Rey Bustos is one of the country's preeminent artistic-anatomy teachers. He graduated with honors from the prestigious ArtCenter College of Design in 1989, and has been teaching figure drawing, composition, and 2D and 3D anatomy ever since. Bustos currently teaches at ArtCenter College of Design in Pasadena, CA, Los Angeles Academy of Figurative Art, and Kline Academy of Art in Culver City, CA and conducts online classes for Computer Graphics Masters Academy (CGMA), New Masters Academy and Gnomon School of Visual Effects.

The human body is a challenging subject to depict because of its intricate complexity and movement. “To do it well requires an in-depth knowledge of anatomy and an awareness of what lies beneath all parts of the body, for the greatest figurative art gives the impression that there is a living skeleton inside the body,” notes artist and veteran art educator Rey Bustos. With Rey’s Anatomy: Figurative Art Lessons from the Classroom, Bustos provides essential anatomical information, detailed studies, and valuable drawing tutorials to equip artists with a basic understanding of the skeletal structure and muscle system of the human body.

Having taught figure drawing for 30 years, he presents complex concepts in a remarkably accessible manner, referencing works from the Old Masters to demonstrate how an artist can take the same anatomical knowledge and express it in diverse and personal ways and, with study and practice, portray the human form without being hindered by the process or the intellect. Rey’s Anatomy explores anatomy first, followed by daily drawing exercises to help refine one’s figurative work, while featuring the extraordinary work of his students throughout the book ― alongside his own ― a testament to how his lessons have benefited generations of artists.

About the Author:

Rey Bustos is one of the country's preeminent artistic-anatomy teachers. He graduated with honors from the prestigious ArtCenter College of Design in 1989, and has been teaching figure drawing, composition, and 2D and 3D anatomy ever since. Bustos currently teaches at ArtCenter College of Design in Pasadena, CA, Los Angeles Academy of Figurative Art, and Kline Academy of Art in Culver City, CA and conducts online classes for Computer Graphics Masters Academy (CGMA), New Masters Academy and Gnomon School of Visual Effects.

The definitive monograph on the fashion of Rick Owens -- one of the most daring and influential designers working today -- this book documents over a decade of sublime, iconic styles.

Since the establishment of his label in 1994, Rick Owens has transformed global fashion with his provocative clothing and subversive style. Distinguished by his grunge-meets-glamour aesthetic and defiant anti-fashion stance, Owens created a dark fashion empire that has accrued a devoted international following which gravitates toward the brand's sublime tailoring, somber palette, mystical layers, and gritty elegance.

Filled with photographs of Owens's most impressive looks from the last decade, this volume is conceived as a celebration of the Rick Owens aesthetic, approximating with printing effects some of the mystery and detailing associated with the brand. Iconic imagery taken from Owens's seminal lookbooks provides a unique look at the output of design from an artist who is at once comfortable with developing technologies and respectful of traditional approaches.

With principal photography by Danielle Levitt -- who achieved considerable acclaim for her social-realist images -- this book is essential for lovers of avant-garde fashion, photography, and design.

About the Authors:

Rick Owens is an American fashion designer and winner of a Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award.
Danielle Levitt is an American photographer based in New York.

___________

Пролистать книгу Rick Owens на сайте издательства.